Yes I do.Is there anyone who use DDDAC with FIFOPI Q7? Please contact me in privat message, I have some questions
Rgrds Jan
hello; i have massive problems with the LIFEPO4 MKIII Batteries Power Supply
..the pdf is incomplete was only added from the first version, and only improved...where to solder bridges; is no longer apparent in the pdf, because the lipo holders have long been soldered to the board, and nothing is described on the back panel....
the power supply looked totally dirty, not even the soldering grease had been removed, full of fingerprints, dust, etc.
i could live with that...then i also found out where the bridges should go, because i read the 480 page thread...and other users also complained...
from the first second i got the error message " short protection" . then the board simply burned down
before that i had written to ian via private messages in diyaudio...everything was connected correctly...i had shown him a schematic before...everything was perfect...but no, the board had an error from the beginning... i must have bought parts from you guys for 3500-4000 euro just on ian canada.... i build very proffesionell with a lot of love...my posts get hundreds of likes on facebook and co...so i promote ian well...i would be happy to get help or at least an answer...but since one week i don't get an answer several times; neither by mail nor by pm
this is how the board looked from below
short protection message
..the pdf is incomplete was only added from the first version, and only improved...where to solder bridges; is no longer apparent in the pdf, because the lipo holders have long been soldered to the board, and nothing is described on the back panel....
the power supply looked totally dirty, not even the soldering grease had been removed, full of fingerprints, dust, etc.
i could live with that...then i also found out where the bridges should go, because i read the 480 page thread...and other users also complained...
from the first second i got the error message " short protection" . then the board simply burned down
before that i had written to ian via private messages in diyaudio...everything was connected correctly...i had shown him a schematic before...everything was perfect...but no, the board had an error from the beginning... i must have bought parts from you guys for 3500-4000 euro just on ian canada.... i build very proffesionell with a lot of love...my posts get hundreds of likes on facebook and co...so i promote ian well...i would be happy to get help or at least an answer...but since one week i don't get an answer several times; neither by mail nor by pm
this is how the board looked from below
short protection message
@Aiello
I'm sorry I was out of town.
No or low 3.3V output will trigger the short circuit protection. You have to check the fuses.
LifePO4 power supply is my old product, I'm not recommend it for new design. You can use the LifePO4 Mini and UcPure to get even better performance. Please see the attached recommended configuration.
There are a lot of manual soldering works. You can use alcohol to clean the soldering flux.
If any PCB trace was damaged by short circuit then you will need send it back to me to repair .
Please let me know if you have more questions.
I'm sorry I was out of town.
No or low 3.3V output will trigger the short circuit protection. You have to check the fuses.
LifePO4 power supply is my old product, I'm not recommend it for new design. You can use the LifePO4 Mini and UcPure to get even better performance. Please see the attached recommended configuration.
There are a lot of manual soldering works. You can use alcohol to clean the soldering flux.
If any PCB trace was damaged by short circuit then you will need send it back to me to repair .
Please let me know if you have more questions.
Attachments
the board is completely burnt down and the fuses are ok; had i written all this to you
just bought the board; why do i get to buy old stuff now?
your list looks good. were your words, had listed every part to you in the mail...
i asked you specifically about the config i had in mind; each build part told you if i should buy it that way or if you had any objections...that was right before i bought it...and now you say better not buy it
and i had 3.3 volt and 5volt hanging on it, the dual mono and the raspi...i hope it didn't scrap those parts too now
am very very unhappy
just bought the board; why do i get to buy old stuff now?
your list looks good. were your words, had listed every part to you in the mail...
i asked you specifically about the config i had in mind; each build part told you if i should buy it that way or if you had any objections...that was right before i bought it...and now you say better not buy it
and i had 3.3 volt and 5volt hanging on it, the dual mono and the raspi...i hope it didn't scrap those parts too now
am very very unhappy
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It’s an interesting approach. However that SRAM is actually not deep at all, I believe Ian’s FIFO is more in the 8MB range. It also needs some smart logic to deal with silence and sample frequency changes. Let me know if you know or any viable designs, I’d like to learn from them.
Lets say the better xtal is 10ppm slower than input source,
multiplier=(10+10e6)/10e6=1,000001
we have 10e6 transitions in 1sec, with multiplier: 10000010,
so every second we need to store 10 extra bits, in 4minutes 2400bits
so IDT72V2103 would be 100x enough.
Another approach would be choosing slighter faster xtal than source then 1depth FIFO would be also enough.
multiplier=(10+10e6)/10e6=1,000001
we have 10e6 transitions in 1sec, with multiplier: 10000010,
so every second we need to store 10 extra bits, in 4minutes 2400bits
so IDT72V2103 would be 100x enough.
Another approach would be choosing slighter faster xtal than source then 1depth FIFO would be also enough.
On the connection part, it works. However, you may not be able to update the firmware. That’s a chance you take.
I’ve been doing some reading about preamp design for newbies. Here is a link that helped me https://neurochrome.com/pages/the-ultimate-guide-to-preamp-design
When I went to DacMagic plus 10 years ago I thought “this is awesome - it renders the pre amp uselesss” and it sounds pretty awesome for digital. And I ripped everything lossless FLAC and that was my solution till Apple Music lossless. Then my DacMagic plus blew up. And I found this forum and what I built seriously blows away the DacMagic 200m that I bought when my plus blew up.
And still I ask why a pre-amp and the answer above comes.
1. Analogue volume. But then I read the ESS9038q2m is the best digital volume control and beats most analogue.
2. Impedance. According to my focal audio a50s powered speakers and the OPA861-IV I am ok there.
3. Gain - nope done need it with the Ian DAC stack I built. Can rattle the walls.
4. Multiple sources. Nope. I put my vinyl into a ADC and into the DAC as that is my secondary source.
5. Change the sound signature. Nope. I don’t want to colour it. I want to hear what the producer laid down.
All that said, everyone here says you need one so I am thinking it sounds better somehow. So that’s number 5, right?
Ie there is something better than just hearing a transparent source?
Or am I missing something? Because to add a bunch of circuitry and make a more complex system with potential degradation and noise points beyond what I’ve built now doesn’t seem logical????
I will still rent one to found out as in love and war logic sometimes doesn’t make sense 😎
Here are my answers for now.Hello all,
I am building a DDC with Ian Canada boards. I have a few question on power.
Here’s a list of the component I have
1. HdmiPi Pro (#17B) or TransportPi AES
2. FifoPi Q7 (#1D)
3. StationPi Pro (#35B)
4. LinearPi 5V(#32A)
5. UcConditioner 5V (#25A)
6. UcPureMkIII
8. MonitorPi (#49A)
Amanero Combo384
2 small ultracapacitors for the UcConditioner
2 large ultracapacitors (with a boarding board to buy very soon) for the UcPure
The Amanero Combo board is on the RPi section of the Station
On the audio section, I have the HDMI Pro on top of the FifoPi Q7
I have installed the two jumpers on J9 of the StationPiPro since I want to test with only one source of power for now.
1- It is possible to plug a USB-C with 5V LPSU on J13 to test the DDC without the ultracapacitor boards?
Next, I will mounted the UcConditioner on top on the LinearPi.
V+ and V- are connected to J2 input (UcConditioner) and J6 output (UcConditioner) to connected to J3 of StatoionPiPro. I would test my project with this set-up,once I know the DDC is working.
2- What transformer do you suggest, is the Hammond 1182N6 is enough for 5V?
In the last phase, I will add the UcPure MkIII, I will connect the power output to J5 of the StationPiPro and remove the two jumpers at J9.
3- Do I need to buy another transformer or a dual would be OK? Which one do you recommend?
Any hints will be appreciated.
Thank you for your help!
Yves
1- Yes. But, you need 3.3v for FifoPiQ7.
2 and 3- I am testing with one torrid transfo for now (Dual 6v and 12v). I’ll let you know if I need an extra (I.e. one for each PS).
The Renesas FIFOs are interesting parts indeed. You may want to go as high as 1000ppm as IIRC that’s the tolerance for SPDIF. For inputs like I2S from an RPi without MCLK which line would you clock in to — SCK?
Let me know how you fare with this and deal with sample rate changes / silence.
Preamps are a bit far from the topic in this thread but I am interested to follow when you move another thread.
@fusion360guy
Focal a50 as in Focal Alpha 50 5-inch Active Studio Monitor?
You do not need gain for these speakers. If you had big speakers with 85-89dB sensivity (B&W is a good example), you would need more gain.
Also, I heard good DACs and streamers (dCS, Nagra and Meranson, for example) which there was no need for gain. It’s possible that what you built is good enough but there is a high quality volume knob somewhere. Your mileage may vary.
@fusion360guy
Focal a50 as in Focal Alpha 50 5-inch Active Studio Monitor?
You do not need gain for these speakers. If you had big speakers with 85-89dB sensivity (B&W is a good example), you would need more gain.
Also, I heard good DACs and streamers (dCS, Nagra and Meranson, for example) which there was no need for gain. It’s possible that what you built is good enough but there is a high quality volume knob somewhere. Your mileage may vary.
Hello,
If you have a good dac with no preamp or a lousy one you will get a less than good sound or a lousy sound.
The dddac seems to be working very good with a avc on its output.
I have 104 db/1W / one meter so i should not need a pre amp with the healthy output of my dddac. Simply is not true.
If you spend 500$ on clocks you need to invest in other stuff as well. Pretty simple.
Greetings Eduard
If you have a good dac with no preamp or a lousy one you will get a less than good sound or a lousy sound.
The dddac seems to be working very good with a avc on its output.
I have 104 db/1W / one meter so i should not need a pre amp with the healthy output of my dddac. Simply is not true.
If you spend 500$ on clocks you need to invest in other stuff as well. Pretty simple.
Greetings Eduard
My understanding is it lets you put the amenero usb input on it and converts it to i2S.
I have the ReceiverPiProMk2. See some of my posts.
Thank you for the feedback.
You are correct. I can shake the walls and I’m blowing all my visitors away as they can’t believe what they are hearing from a DAC. Ie they think it’s the best system they’ve heard.
Thus my questions on why preamp with Ian DAC.
Let me know which thread to use. There is interest in the post here. The reason I put it here is “do ian DAC need a good preamp”.
But I am getting amazing sound. And my audiophile visitors can’t believe how good it is. Thus the interest and the question. How will the preamp improve it and is it worth the investment.