DAC AD1862: Almost THT, I2S input, NOS, R-2R

In parallel with building ad1862 I bought old ACM Competition dac2 with two pcm63. I want to compare with ad1862 when I finish it. In I/V stage there is 6 ne5534. This is quite old opamp and I'd like to replace with better one. Can you recommend something better than opa627?
 

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After a few revisions and a couple weeks of the Grunf/Jung inspired shunt regulator AD811 IV board working very well paired with my AD1862 MiroDac its time to share it with you Fellas. If you are interested, I would recommend reading through Grunf's thread for: ad811-as-i-v-stage-for-current-dacs-and-test-some-other-op-amps-including-burson-audio-op-amps-as-i-v.394295
  • A 30VA transformer with two 18V secondaries wired in series or center tapped 18V-0-18V is required to power the board.
  • Heatsinking is required for Q403, 404, 410 and 411.
  • Built with the listed BOM components: 105mA shunt current per rail, +/-11.55V for AD811 opamp.
  • Mounting holes are the same spacing as DAC board to stack input header above and close to DAC Iout.

I tried to make it as easy as possible to build, but it does use several SMD components, Don't be scared :rofl:.
Huge thank-you to Grunf and jhofland for all the help and support!!

Contact me by PM and I'll send you the Gerbers for this project.

:cheers:
 

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After a few revisions and a couple weeks of the Grunf/Jung inspired shunt regulator AD811 IV board working very well paired with my AD1862 MiroDac its time to share it with you Fellas. If you are interested, I would recommend reading through Grunf's thread for: ad811-as-i-v-stage-for-current-dacs-and-test-some-other-op-amps-including-burson-audio-op-amps-as-i-v.394295
  • A 30VA transformer with two 18V secondaries wired in series or center tapped 18V-0-18V is required to power the board.
  • Heatsinking is required for Q403, 404, 410 and 411.
  • Built with the listed BOM components: 105mA shunt current per rail, +/-11.55V for AD811 opamp.
  • Mounting holes are the same spacing as DAC board to stack input header above and close to DAC Iout.

I tried to make it as easy as possible to build, but it does use several SMD components, Don't be scared :rofl:.
Huge thank-you to Grunf and jhofland for all the help and support!!

Contact me by PM and I'll send you the Gerbers for this project.

:cheers:

Hi V.
May you please "subjectivly" (despite different regulators) rank it over the 1656, 861, the ones you have tried already in your whole hifi setup, please ?

Goo' joob from you and your friend as usual :) .
 
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Hi Tesla and Iggy,

I don’t really get into the “Audio lingo” and colorful describing words, but it’s safe to say I’d go a different way than OPA627. For simple opamp I/V the OPA1655 is my choice.

The external IV solutions all have pros and cons. Lately I’ve been trying to reduce clutter and build as compact as possible without hurting sound quality. This latest project tics all the boxes, three sections (rectification, shunt regulator and IV conversion) combined on a single board. How does it sound?
Excellent to my ears, I don’t feel as though I’m missing something. It is still new, but the urge to swap back to more familiar setups is not there.
 
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  • Better than opa1655 plugged into MiroDac board.
  • Hmmm, tougher choice. A tad more detail versus OPA861 output stage. But power supplies are completely different.

You need to get practice with SMD soldering techniques Iggy and build this board to hear for yourself 😂!!
 
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I begun smd with the nice ES9023 Subbu DAC : made twice with my caps sauce... pretty nice sounding. Always populate two boards, one for reference.

I have them still. The cool thing when you have tons of dac and loudspeakers is you can make a ton of subjectives benchmarks, lol !
 
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I don’t really get into the “Audio lingo” and colorful describing words, but it’s safe to say I’d go a different way than OPA627. For simple opamp I/V the OPA1655 is my choice.
As a noob in solid state stuff I did some basic research on what opamps to get for my first Miro dac build. 627 came as a strong option but expensive and I also purchased a cheap and cheerful NE5534 in case I fry the opamp.

On the PCM63 board I prefer the bottom of the barrel 5534, it has very good synergy on my setup. 627 is a touch more refined but doesn't sound as big somehow. I'm wondering if the OPA627 would sound better on +-12V.

20230912_222507 (1).jpg


This is my first fully DIY dac, PCM63 Miro board with separate Salas SSLV analogue, digital and USB power, toroidy audio transformers all on top of a furniture wood sample turned into a base. 3D printed parts for the switches, board and transformer supports. Power cables may be suspiciously missing but they're routed underneath in custom cut grooves. Just need a top panel acrylic panel and it's done.
 
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On the PCM63 board I prefer the bottom of the barrel 5534, it has very good synergy on my setup. 627 is a touch more refined but doesn't sound as big somehow. I'm wondering if the OPA627 would sound better on +-12V.
I powered the op amp IV separately from a +/-12V. It presented more spacious sound, more dynamic. Using the onboard+/-5V , it sounded smooth and refined, more relaxed and sweet.

Nice work you did there.
 
My miro DACs are all on boards, but not nearly as nice as your layout. I’m using my PCM63 with a triple stack of AD844s and OPA627 as a buffer powered with a VRDN set at 15v. I really like this I/V with the PCM63.

My AD1862 had the AD844s, but I’m trying the Burson V6Vs. So far I’m liking the sound. I like how they sound, but not sure if I like them more then the 844s. I need more time listening to them.