In that case, your next best option is a Meanwell SMPS.Not about the power although i want a little more "clean" power
It's about the quality,noise
You should check their datasheets for ones with low ripple and go from there.
There's this Connex one too: CONNEX SMPS300RE Switched-Mode Power Supply Module US Version 300W +/-24V 120V - Audiophonics
Appreciate a bit of insights into connecting a VU Meter to the TPA 3255. The setup is a TPA 3255 powered by a Meanwell SMPS 48V.
I need to connect a VU meter to this setup. I am using another 12V SMPS to power up the driver board and the backlight of the VU Meter. The problem is how do i connect the audio ground ? The dotted line in the diagram below is what is bothering me. I am not sure, if i can connect the 2 grounds of SMPS
I need to connect a VU meter to this setup. I am using another 12V SMPS to power up the driver board and the backlight of the VU Meter. The problem is how do i connect the audio ground ? The dotted line in the diagram below is what is bothering me. I am not sure, if i can connect the 2 grounds of SMPS
depending on the sensitivity of the VU meter, you can connect them at the input of the amplifier or after the volume control, providing your input is not balanced. You can connect them to one side of the output and ground. Use a coupling cap and resistor dividers when connection to the VU meters.
I don't wanna pay that much and i need one that is 220 volt and plug and playIn that case, your next best option is a Meanwell SMPS.
You should check their datasheets for ones with low ripple and go from there.
There's this Connex one too: CONNEX SMPS300RE Switched-Mode Power Supply Module US Version 300W +/-24V 120V - Audiophonics
Audiophonics have this one but i don't know if the quality is good https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/powe...adapter-100-240vac-to-42v-dc-85a-p-17308.html
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depending on the sensitivity of the VU meter, you can connect them at the input of the amplifier or after the volume control, providing your input is not balanced. You can connect them to one side of the output and ground. Use a coupling cap and resistor dividers when connection to the VU meters.
Thanks for a response multisync. The problem is with the ground line(the dotted line in the diagram). I am not very sure that i can connect the ground lines of 2 different SMPS powered by the same source. In this case, i would be connecting the 48V SMPS ground line to the 12V SMPS ground line, is that ok?
yes, If you want to be extra safe you can get a galvanic isolated DC to DC module. Or one of those DC to DC down converters that sell for a couple of dollars on ebay. I have a few and they work ok. ie 48VDC to 12VDC output
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20430341049...9pbU+1MvZYq7+JlTo4rTu6RqBv|tkp:Bk9SR_jQ3pPKYg
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20430341049...9pbU+1MvZYq7+JlTo4rTu6RqBv|tkp:Bk9SR_jQ3pPKYg
So you are saying i can connect.
I do like your suggestion of using a DC to DC converter - that gives me peace of mind. Thank you 👍
I do like your suggestion of using a DC to DC converter - that gives me peace of mind. Thank you 👍
On second thoughts, I am using a Meanwell power supply for powering up the AMP. This DC to DC converter, would it add noise to the supply ? Should i watch out for it ?
If you are worried about SMPS noise, use linear power supplies. Then again there are many post here about 60 Hz or 120 Hz noise from ground loops. Search "gain structure" on this or other forums. I have made several tpa3116, tpa3255 amplifiers as well as others. Don't sweat the small details. There are thousands of different brands and builds of amplifiers. Most of the good ones are hard to tell apart by most people in double blind tests.
Gone ahead and ordered a couple of DC to DC converter. Should be getting it by tomorrow.
Meanwhile, what if i use a 10K resistor while connecting to ground and remove the series resistor in the VU meter circuit ? Something like this
Meanwhile, what if i use a 10K resistor while connecting to ground and remove the series resistor in the VU meter circuit ? Something like this
maybe 10 Ohm not 10,000 Ohms. You will need some type of divider at the input to your Vu meters. I think they might hit full scale long before the music gets loud. I bought 48 led Vu meters, actually 48 led display and they hit full scale with less than 1 volt RMS input. The bottom 4 leds would come on at the same time as well as the top 4 leds. Dynamic range for the 48 led meter was 24 db. They were cheap.
I haven't read to this thread for a while. In the meantime my DIY 3e-audio TPA3255 amp died (I already got a new smps), but also my wife demanded downsizing an AVR that served as a preamp (the old Rotel is a real brick). So I searched for an AV preamp and found just two options: Canton Smart Connect and Nubert nuXinema preAV. I also looked at d-class avrs with a though of connecting to pre-outs but no luck (seems like these are not so popular anymore as probably soundbars canibalised their niche) but found a HEOS 5.1 AVR on sale. I looked for a service manual and found out it has 3 TPA3251D2 on board.
Can someone have a look at service manual, if that thing is worth anything? It looks like it has seprate power lines for the AMPs (8.5amp 34V), digital and pre.
It has two DACs: PCM5100 (for Stereo?) and PCM1690 for 5.1. Volume and tone is done on BD3473KS2.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2936255/Denon-Heos-Avr.html
what do you think? It can be grabbed at really good prices second hand too.
Can someone have a look at service manual, if that thing is worth anything? It looks like it has seprate power lines for the AMPs (8.5amp 34V), digital and pre.
It has two DACs: PCM5100 (for Stereo?) and PCM1690 for 5.1. Volume and tone is done on BD3473KS2.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2936255/Denon-Heos-Avr.html
what do you think? It can be grabbed at really good prices second hand too.
I bought one for 380 euros used in new condition.... I love the design! The AVR processors are too expensive... This one seems to be a good compromise with 3 TPA inside!I haven't read to this thread for a while. In the meantime my DIY 3e-audio TPA3255 amp died (I already got a new smps), but also my wife demanded downsizing an AVR that served as a preamp (the old Rotel is a real brick). So I searched for an AV preamp and found just two options: Canton Smart Connect and Nubert nuXinema preAV. I also looked at d-class avrs with a though of connecting to pre-outs but no luck (seems like these are not so popular anymore as probably soundbars canibalised their niche) but found a HEOS 5.1 AVR on sale. I looked for a service manual and found out it has 3 TPA3251D2 on board.
Can someone have a look at service manual, if that thing is worth anything? It looks like it has seprate power lines for the AMPs (8.5amp 34V), digital and pre.
It has two DACs: PCM5100 (for Stereo?) and PCM1690 for 5.1. Volume and tone is done on BD3473KS2.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2936255/Denon-Heos-Avr.html
what do you think? It can be grabbed at really good prices second hand too.
I can't wait to receive it and of course try it. 😉👍
Lucky you! I only found two in UK for around same money, but they didn't want to send to continent. Seems like brexit did some harm maybe. I've found one last item in official distribution locally for 714EUR.
I found it on the popular French site Le bon coin. I saw that there was another one for sale at 400 euros...
A good alternative, while having a good the amp already, would be to convert some slim d-class AVR to a preamp. Onkyo/Pioneer and HK had some (but used some older design d-amps, probably nothing to write home about).
https://www.nubert-forum.de/nuforum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36789
https://www.nubert-forum.de/nuforum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36789
What is going on here???
@mamocel did you receive yours? I got mine (new one from distributor). The wifi setup didn't work via WPS but after initial setup with cable and manually entering wifi settings it worked. Judging by the ear, it has similar sound signature to my old DIY TPA3255 amp. It is transparent, detailed and dynamic, I quite like it. The design is indeed great. I like the minimalist look of it, It looks like a stereo amplifier without tone control, just the volume. Running it in direct mode it does redirect bass to LFE output (it may do AD-DA for the low end but pass through the full range directly to the amp and front speakers). So far I like it.
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