My 2nd 350w 42v power supply does work really good looks exactly the same I just found this new tpa3255 board. Looks like 3e audio but much cheaper
Does anyone here have experience with this smps?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3550825070...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3550825070...486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Joined 2018
I bought this TPA3255 Board.
Four capacitors beside heatsink are series-connected 4700uF/25V.
So a total of 4350uF capacitance is embedded.
It's not a good idea from the point of view ESR. 😱
By the way, another complaint...
The speaker output makes a pop noise during Power-up and Power-down. So I developed an automatic reset control circuit.
This can eliminate pop sound without manual reset switch control operations. 😉
Hope this will help you easier.
CyberPIt
Four capacitors beside heatsink are series-connected 4700uF/25V.
So a total of 4350uF capacitance is embedded.
It's not a good idea from the point of view ESR. 😱
By the way, another complaint...
The speaker output makes a pop noise during Power-up and Power-down. So I developed an automatic reset control circuit.
This can eliminate pop sound without manual reset switch control operations. 😉
Hope this will help you easier.
CyberPIt
That looks surprisingly identical with this:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...rd-with-Tone-and-Volume-Co-325-501?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...rd-with-Tone-and-Volume-Co-325-501?quantity=1
You don’t want to use a 150W class D for a headphone amp. There will be some residual Class D switching noise (beat frequency from 400kHz and other sources) you might hear, and in event of a pop from turn on/off or when accidentally hot plugging a jack, it will blow your headphones in an instant.
You want Class A and 1W or so for a headphone amp.
You want Class A and 1W or so for a headphone amp.