Is it me or do the class D amps built for subwoofers last longer than these Class D for use in HiFi amps? Most all of the subwoofer amps I have purchased are still holding up..lol
This would be my option:
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/powe...1.html?search_query=Purifi 600&fast_search=fs
Not expensive (only 582 euros excluding tax), monoblocks, proper binding posts (I use spades and banana plugs), reliable builds and most importantly... the amp/buffer IC is socketed DIL8 & the Vcc/Vee regs are 3-pin through-hole. Just by trying different regs and OPAmp, the sound could be fine-tuned to my liking/rest of my system.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/powe...1.html?search_query=Purifi 600&fast_search=fs
Not expensive (only 582 euros excluding tax), monoblocks, proper binding posts (I use spades and banana plugs), reliable builds and most importantly... the amp/buffer IC is socketed DIL8 & the Vcc/Vee regs are 3-pin through-hole. Just by trying different regs and OPAmp, the sound could be fine-tuned to my liking/rest of my system.
@Nisbeth
Hi there! Yes I did use a good thermal paste on the bottom of the module before I mounted it to the bottom of chassis. I have read on another icepower module 50ASX2 that had kind of the same thing my module is doing. One guy mentions he tried lowering the voltage on variac to like 90 volts, and that seemed to fix the issue. Another guy mentions the voltage measurement weren't correct on two of the pins he measured and also it seems that a resistor had went south. This resistor going bad happened on quite a few of those models by icepower. I'm not sure if that is the case with mine though? I imagine I could use my DMM and try to see what kind of reading I could get by probing around. The only issue is my eyes are not so good anymore, and these are smd resistors. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
Hi there! Yes I did use a good thermal paste on the bottom of the module before I mounted it to the bottom of chassis. I have read on another icepower module 50ASX2 that had kind of the same thing my module is doing. One guy mentions he tried lowering the voltage on variac to like 90 volts, and that seemed to fix the issue. Another guy mentions the voltage measurement weren't correct on two of the pins he measured and also it seems that a resistor had went south. This resistor going bad happened on quite a few of those models by icepower. I'm not sure if that is the case with mine though? I imagine I could use my DMM and try to see what kind of reading I could get by probing around. The only issue is my eyes are not so good anymore, and these are smd resistors. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
I don't believe that I have a thermal issue. I'm leaning towards a voltage issue, or perhaps one of the smd parts? My amp was working fine for a few years, and then out of the blue, my issue started. 🙁
Way too expensive to be purchased considering it literally is eval 1 inside 🙂 You pay 700e for the case, which belive me is not worth that much 😅 Rip off.
I just told you whats inside. They literally charge 700e for the case. It is a serious rip off. There are manufacturers that charge waaaaay less. Even with custom input buffer, proper binding posts, it costs the same/less. VTV offers custom buffer, WBT-0703Cu NextGen binding posts, for the same money, in the same case. Apollon audio, 1090e, with custom input board and ofc binding posts... So yes, as said, soundimports ripoff...
And you grabbing by the straw now. Either you work for SI, or you really are bad at math. Even if you think binding posts are a ripoff, they do cost money, and have value. Which this soundimports build doesn't have. Apollon even offers Purifi 1ET7040SA for 1490e, come on 😂
Hahhha you're funny 🙂 Use your excel to calculate how wrong you are, and how little math is needed to calculate cost for such an easy sample.
I can draw it for you, i don't mind, let me know 😁
I can draw it for you, i don't mind, let me know 😁
Hi,
These are the ones I have bought after calculating price and efforts of an own built. These are very good amps and I like them a lot.
All the best
Mattes
That suggests a problem with the connections to P102. I have no practical experience with the 1200AS2. Disconnect P102. The amp should run normally without interruption, correct? According to the manual p 27 "If the module controls are left unconnected, the module will start normal operation without
further action."
There could be a problem with the trigger sense circuit in the amplifier, or the wiring to the trigger sense circuit. I am suggesting to remove the P102 header (gently heat the plastic and pry loose, then desolder individual pins) and solder control wires directly to the PCB (I think the most fool proof method). Other options are to solder new contacts to the wires, crimp new contacts to the wires or get a new (better) P102 harness.
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@hifiamps
OK I see now what you are saying. I've already tried disconnecting the connector from P101 that has the jumper from pins 3 and 6 I believe. That didn't work, so I can try disconnecting the connector from P102 and see what happens. When I first built my amp kit, I wanted to use (2) separate LEDS amber for standby mode and blue for ON. It was working fine for a few years, then it started doing this switching from ON to Standby. It would then work fine for a while after this, but would then begin the same problem. I'll try disconnecting the connector on P102 and let you know what happens. I have read also where others had issues like me, but with another icepower module. They mentioned lowering the voltage to around 90V using a variac worked? I was going to try that as well, but first I'll just disconnect bot connectors on P101 and P102 to see if it continues. Thanks for your info!
OK I see now what you are saying. I've already tried disconnecting the connector from P101 that has the jumper from pins 3 and 6 I believe. That didn't work, so I can try disconnecting the connector from P102 and see what happens. When I first built my amp kit, I wanted to use (2) separate LEDS amber for standby mode and blue for ON. It was working fine for a few years, then it started doing this switching from ON to Standby. It would then work fine for a while after this, but would then begin the same problem. I'll try disconnecting the connector on P102 and let you know what happens. I have read also where others had issues like me, but with another icepower module. They mentioned lowering the voltage to around 90V using a variac worked? I was going to try that as well, but first I'll just disconnect bot connectors on P101 and P102 to see if it continues. Thanks for your info!