I actually like the first version better - the horn would be sitting on a plinth and carry no additional weight on the driver end.
The driver would be held by its own independent vertical support.
I asked for a quote, perhaps it will still be acceptable (the previous sand horns weren't so expensive).
The driver would be held by its own independent vertical support.
I asked for a quote, perhaps it will still be acceptable (the previous sand horns weren't so expensive).
Noob questions
The graphs never show 0 degrees as in on axis for the beamwidth and is that half or whole beamwidth, in the graphs?
The graphs never show 0 degrees as in on axis for the beamwidth and is that half or whole beamwidth, in the graphs?
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It was a local company http://www.modelarna-liaz.cz/en/Do you use Sandhelden?
It's the full beamwidth, perhaps I should state this instead of "coverage". I don't understand the 0 degrees part.The graphs never show 0 degrees as in on axis for the beamwidth and is that half or whole beamwidth, in the graphs?
here in this post is a technique using bendy board for a flat sided horns curved in one direction..... if that made sense.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/system-pictures-description.23208/post-7192498
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/system-pictures-description.23208/post-7192498
The fun part starts when you make bent wood horns that have different horizontal and vertical spread 😀
Sandhelden costs about 250 eur per horn (35cm x 25cm x 20cm about 1.5kg)It was a local company http://www.modelarna-liaz.cz/en/
Sandhelden - binder jett 3D print? What's next? Pour something inside or use it as a mold for casting (resin, metal)?
It can be directly used as a final product.
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...I didn't expect it to look so good (YMMV, of course).
(18" woofer and ATHEX 460-36/1.4")
(18" woofer and ATHEX 460-36/1.4")
If possible print at least one spare piece, and then try to break it using a force. I do not believe it would be easy, but I might be wrong 🙂I'm seriously considering sand printing of the hexagonal parts, individually, to be glued together additionally by some damping layer.
I believe they could print 12 pieces at once (if not more) without any trouble, to make pretty large horns without all the issues with large parts (mainly the risk of breaking during manipulation or transport). I would also make it a bit more robust (heavier) this time.
Some surface treatment is advisable. Raw material is very abrasive, catches lot of dust, it has irregular color patches, and it absorbs some humidity/water into pores.
RANDOM
there was a post with a round ATH OS (Meh) horn mated with 1 15"inch speaker somewhere that i am trying to re-find but it alludes me. 🙂
there was a post with a round ATH OS (Meh) horn mated with 1 15"inch speaker somewhere that i am trying to re-find but it alludes me. 🙂
Looks great. Just a question - IF you had a restriction on the width of the bass section, what would be the least compromised?...I didn't expect it to look so good (YMMV, of course).
Well I did have a restriction! 🙂 If I had not, it would be in the wall (which would probably be the best for the bass but not so for the horn).
- Seriously, I didn't think much about it - it will be used with several separate subs anyway. It's just a baffle that seemed about right... I don't consider it to be important in my case. It could have been smaller but I wanted a wide horn originally to maintain the radiation pattern as low in frequency as feasible.
- Seriously, I didn't think much about it - it will be used with several separate subs anyway. It's just a baffle that seemed about right... I don't consider it to be important in my case. It could have been smaller but I wanted a wide horn originally to maintain the radiation pattern as low in frequency as feasible.
But you're going to use an 18" woofer with ATHEX460? I'm interested in the real life compromises of going with a 15 or even a 12. Did you give up on Cardioid for lower mid/ upper bass?
Can you give a clue how you went about calculating this? I've seen the sketches in F360 but I can't think of an easy way of working out the transitions. I've rather fudged the issue in the past.Easy to print, not so easy to calculate... Had to switch to several iterative techniques, but it works nicely in the end.
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