Didn't realise the Neutrik / Speakon were so cheap so why not after reading about advantages.
I'll get in touch with KJF re Birch cabinets too.
I'll get in touch with KJF re Birch cabinets too.
Making me think to just buy another of the same subwoofer rather than throw in 2x passive radiators and run them opposed. Amp says it can handle 2ohms.
MDF behaves very close to plywood in terms of resonance. It's just glued dust and for a woodworker a kind of disgusting material ... but acoustically it's fine.
Indeed, please help spread the gospel of Speakon connectors.
IMO it is not really crucial that it has to be Birch plywood (some of that stuff can be quite expensive), at the size of box you are looking at just about any kind of 15-18mm decent quality plywood regardless of type of wood should be sufficient. Perhaps add a modicum of bracing, but there should be no need to go completely crazy with it.
The Genuine Baltic birch is great for projects where you want the plies visible.
A decent void free local plywood is sufficient otherwise imo. Though some of the more local varieties also show very well.
MDF sounds ok its more a matter if you can bear the dust and end joints showing through your paint or other type of finish job. If you use a duraliner or an equal or a laminate it shouldn't pose a problem otherwise.
You might have to expand it to get the idea how he laminated that horn with the ply. Then a single sheet layer in between the solid wood to accent it. So cool, love that.
A decent void free local plywood is sufficient otherwise imo. Though some of the more local varieties also show very well.
MDF sounds ok its more a matter if you can bear the dust and end joints showing through your paint or other type of finish job. If you use a duraliner or an equal or a laminate it shouldn't pose a problem otherwise.
You might have to expand it to get the idea how he laminated that horn with the ply. Then a single sheet layer in between the solid wood to accent it. So cool, love that.
Attachments
If audio angels don't assemble Neutrik cables you'd probably be better going with something else.
I wonder whats going on with DISG? Some of their flat packs consist of Baltic Birch plywood. But many advertised kits are still out of stock https://www.diysoundgroup.com/
Because they are nice woofers with huge magnets which displace or remove available airspace.
So the box is too small regardless for one ported, sealed or passive.
And adding 2 would make it extremely too small.
I wouldn't even be interested in 4 ohm loads with switch mode power supplys.
2 ohms = nope
@WhiteDragon What size would you make the box? It's for music rather than home theatre. Just looking to fill out the bottom on speakers that only go down to 60hz with a AMT tweeter but sound very nice apart from that.
Madisound recommend below which in sealed seems even smaller.
Sealed box of 0.4 to 0.5 cubic feet for an F3 of 65Hz. You would need to use a bass boost or DSP to push the driver into lower frequencies. The F6 is 45Hz and F10 is 35Hz.
Vented box of 0.8 to 1.0 cubic feet with a 2" port by 8" long for an F3 of 35 to 32Hz.
Madisound recommend below which in sealed seems even smaller.
Sealed box of 0.4 to 0.5 cubic feet for an F3 of 65Hz. You would need to use a bass boost or DSP to push the driver into lower frequencies. The F6 is 45Hz and F10 is 35Hz.
Vented box of 0.8 to 1.0 cubic feet with a 2" port by 8" long for an F3 of 35 to 32Hz.
Where from? Curious to see what's available before I take on my next 2 builds.
I've been wondering the same thing. I ordered a kit from them a couple months ago and it went fine.....glad I jumped on the one I did instead of waiting for another one that's still out of stock.
Sure it isn't difficult to find a custom cabinet maker to pass along plans for that service. Some of them do vg work for many times the cost for the service and the material.
I still want a folded horn flat pack. If someone were to open a place like diysg in this part of Canada they will be well rewarded by sales imho. Asian made boxes flood the market sure very true but diysg is in a league of they're own. Theres a market here that begging for a fairly priced complete kit resource and flat boxes and fun kits that won't cost you an arm and leg.
Its too way much trouble ordering from the USA. I crossed paths with many audio hobbiests. All but the hardest core don't seem to bother. Unless its something they can't live without.
Its too way much trouble ordering from the USA. I crossed paths with many audio hobbiests. All but the hardest core don't seem to bother. Unless its something they can't live without.
When we were doing flat-paks we got VERY little business from Canada.
dave
dave
I just know I've encountered many ppl over time online and otherwise in want of similar goods and services, then in the same breath complaining about usa purchasing.
How does this sound?
Width × Height × Depth: 500 x 280 x 325 mm
Net Internal Volume: 25L
Tuning Frequency: 39Hz
Port Area 90cm
Width × Height × Depth: 500 x 280 x 325 mm
Net Internal Volume: 25L
Tuning Frequency: 39Hz
Port Area 90cm
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Like a somewhat slim port with a lot of bends.
Are you sure you've done the math right?
I thought you planned on using passive radiators? Or am I mixing threads again.
Someone else designed this for me but not 100% sure on maths either. I need more knowledge on design. Totally new to this but looking to learn.
My other idea was just a 12 inch cube with 2x 8” passive radiators for simplicity.
My other idea was just a 12 inch cube with 2x 8” passive radiators for simplicity.
Okay, you changed your plan, that's fine.
Are you absolutely sure about the port though?
The driver you want to use claims a 12mm xmax, the box volume is a bit small, and the slot port will cause some additional resistance.
I am a big fan of slot ports, but not for all uses, they need to be carefully balanced for the application. A port this size with the box and driver you have decided on, should really be a round aero port, because they are better suited for this particular brute force application and can take more air velocity before making problems.
Not having looked at the numbers whatsoever, so I may be wrong about this, but the numbers do not add up in my head (no pens an no napkins available), you may end up with a lot of chuffing.
Other than that, I support you in your consideration of vented enclosures.
And again, if someone did take all these matters into consideration I am happy to be wrong.
Are you absolutely sure about the port though?
The driver you want to use claims a 12mm xmax, the box volume is a bit small, and the slot port will cause some additional resistance.
I am a big fan of slot ports, but not for all uses, they need to be carefully balanced for the application. A port this size with the box and driver you have decided on, should really be a round aero port, because they are better suited for this particular brute force application and can take more air velocity before making problems.
Not having looked at the numbers whatsoever, so I may be wrong about this, but the numbers do not add up in my head (no pens an no napkins available), you may end up with a lot of chuffing.
Other than that, I support you in your consideration of vented enclosures.
And again, if someone did take all these matters into consideration I am happy to be wrong.
Change up again. Going dual opposed in 12” cube. Let’s see how it goes. Will be wired with Van Damme 2.5 into Speakon.
