Just got an 8” SB acoustics sb23mfcl45-4.
https://sbacoustics.com/product/8in-sb23mfcl45-4/
I want to build a compact subwoofer to go with Neat Iota’s that have a frequency response of 60Hz–22kHz. Does anyone have an opinion of either of the below Denovo boxes or know anywhere to source plans that could take to a wood shop.
https://www.parts-express.com/Knock-Down-MDF-0.56-ft-Bookshelf-Cabinet-300-7064?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Knock-Down-MDF-0.67-ft-Subwoofer-Cabinet-300-7068?quantity=1
Next question is sealed Vs passive radiator.
Cheers
https://sbacoustics.com/product/8in-sb23mfcl45-4/
I want to build a compact subwoofer to go with Neat Iota’s that have a frequency response of 60Hz–22kHz. Does anyone have an opinion of either of the below Denovo boxes or know anywhere to source plans that could take to a wood shop.
https://www.parts-express.com/Knock-Down-MDF-0.56-ft-Bookshelf-Cabinet-300-7064?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Knock-Down-MDF-0.67-ft-Subwoofer-Cabinet-300-7068?quantity=1
Next question is sealed Vs passive radiator.
Cheers
It's a great driver!
I will use it in a closed volume but 2 of them per side with active amplification. I always prefer closed - when there are enough drivers to get the SPL needed.
Which (plate) amp will you use?
I will use it in a closed volume but 2 of them per side with active amplification. I always prefer closed - when there are enough drivers to get the SPL needed.
Which (plate) amp will you use?
My budget isn’t huge so I’m going to make it passive and use this: https://www.aiyima.com/products/subwoofer-amplifier-aiyima-a3001?variant=29384225554507
Thought I could upgrade in future with an Icepower or Hypex unit.
Thought I could upgrade in future with an Icepower or Hypex unit.
That box looks okay. I was anxious to try a new off size 10 inch sub and so I bought a bbox pre made and carpeted sealed box. They have 1" baffles and quality is up from where it used to be with premade. If you are fussy just be ready to change the spring clip speaker terminal as most of them aren't 5 way posts.
All your Basic alignments
for sealed just use the larger Box kit.
Orange =QB3
Yellow = BB4
Blue = Sealed .5 Qtc
Green = Sealed .7 Qtc
For passive you need larger box
for sealed just use the larger Box kit.
Orange =QB3
Yellow = BB4
Blue = Sealed .5 Qtc
Green = Sealed .7 Qtc
For passive you need larger box
FWIW, I don't recommend using a plate amplifier with a DIY subwoofer unless you've got a specific reason to do so (e.g. you're building a PA system that uses only powered speakers). For commercial subs, yes, they fill a particular niche (consumers who want to buy an all-in-one solution), but for typical home DIY IMO it's much better to go with a separate subwoofer amplifier unit.
Sealed Qtc of 0.7 is totally fine. Even 0.8 sounds better as reflex ;-)
Many DSP+Amp solutions (like the Hypex I use) simply come on a plate. Put it in a separate chamber and it's fine. But I also built external little housings for these plates ... it would be quite some work to design a separate 19" housing ...
Many DSP+Amp solutions (like the Hypex I use) simply come on a plate. Put it in a separate chamber and it's fine. But I also built external little housings for these plates ... it would be quite some work to design a separate 19" housing ...
Cheaper China ones are way more sensitive for failure. Not sure if it's only vibration ... the whole design is not set up for reliability.
But these Hypex are so expensive ... you get ready made Subwoofers for that money ...
But these Hypex are so expensive ... you get ready made Subwoofers for that money ...
Another vote for proper amplifiers in a proper enclosure, preferably a decent enough one with integrated DSP.
And stick to Speakon connectors, they are far superior to any of those "regular" speaker connectors. And they're not expensive either.
And stick to Speakon connectors, they are far superior to any of those "regular" speaker connectors. And they're not expensive either.
Why is this Brian? For the same failure reason noted by others?
I’ve had to replace amplifiers boards SEVERAL times; and always had to replace the whole darn board after the warranty period (24-36 months)
Luckily both manufacturers had spares past their “use-by date” but if it failed again; I’m not sure so that would be the case…
The ones on a plate are the worse because if there is no direct replacement now you have a hole in your sub/speaker.
@KaffiMann
What model amp with integrated DSP have you been happy with?
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I am looking at several viable options, have not completely decided yet, currently I am using a fully balanced solution with a stand alone DSP and separate amplifiers. I might just end up on renewing the separate DSP and amps thing as it is a bit more flexible, it will still be fully balanced though.
Ironically, the single thing holding me back from an amp with integrated DSP is the power, the models I am looking at have too much of it.
Ironically, the single thing holding me back from an amp with integrated DSP is the power, the models I am looking at have too much of it.
Cheers all for the advice, very useful.
Thinking for simplicity just to use the:
Thinking for simplicity just to use the:
- 12" cubed box that should give me internal of 0.66 ft3 /19L for simplicity.
- 2x SB Acoustics 8" passive radiators each with 11mm excursion: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...acoustics-sb20pfcr-00-passive-radiator-round/
- Tempted with this 300W IcePower Amp over the Aiyima. Want something that can sit externally in a little box and I can switch out easy rather than a plate amp.
- Simple Binding Posts: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/260-285.html. Agree Speakon is better but I'll end up paying extra for cables / adaptors etc.
??
You can use the same cable and there's no need for adaptors. All you need is a Speakon terminal and a two-pole Speakon connector, and then you use your own cable back to the amplifier.
Terminal: https://www.parts-express.com/Neutrik-NL4MPR-Speakon-4-Pole-Round-Chassis-Mount-092-054
2-pole connector: https://www.parts-express.com/Neutrik-NL2FX-SpeakON-Connector-2-Pole-Cable-Mount-092-198
They are MDF. Not a great speaker building material, but not at all good for woofers.
You ar ein the UK, contact Stefan @ KJFAudio and see if he can do you a proper plywood flatpack of a box specifically for your chossen woofer.
dave
Heavy yes, more likely to resonate yes. More likely to balloon yes.
You can do it, but it takes more work to tame the issues with it.
In a sub the best thing you can do to laregly “eliminate” the box, is to take advantage of push-push loading.
dave
You can do it, but it takes more work to tame the issues with it.
In a sub the best thing you can do to laregly “eliminate” the box, is to take advantage of push-push loading.
dave
When I made the step away versatility and reliability were key factors.
I'm not a big fan of all-in-
I'm not a big fan of all-in-
Yes MDF. If I never cut another mdf sheet it will be too soon.
Neutrik are handy and do work good. Other than that I go with soldered or bare wire.
I can't say any connecter is a lot better than the other. But one or two less in the chain can't be bad.
Bare just take
a bit of patience when changing out gear.