Bizarrely enough I can't buy the power inlet 693-DD12.9111.1111 and the Lorlin rotary switch CK1060 from Mouser as I don't have a VAT no. Have now bought alternatives, but not sure CK1050 will be the right substitute for the CK1060.
Thanks 🙏, found both articles. Any idea which on/off switch would fit the Modushop enclosure best?
You're right. This photo https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/1685148462540-png.1178089/
seems to show a small hole above a larger one in the centre at the left hand side.
I'm curious what are their sizes and intended uses.
seems to show a small hole above a larger one in the centre at the left hand side.
I'm curious what are their sizes and intended uses.
A relay substitute question:
I found some Nais DS2Y-S-DC24V relays at home. The search for the part number came up with this Panasonic datasheet: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/315/mech_eng_ds2y-1299327.pdf
Is (was?) Nais part of Panasonic?
Are Nais relays of decent quality? (I assume they would be if they are part of Panasonic.)
Assuming Nais is adequate, is this particular part appropriate? (It seems to be based on comparisons with the Fujitsu datasheet: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/164/ry-914629.pdf though I'm terrible with rotating things to match pin-outs.)
Is there are any concerns about this part, I will order some new relays from Mouser.
Thanks,
Dennis
I found some Nais DS2Y-S-DC24V relays at home. The search for the part number came up with this Panasonic datasheet: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/315/mech_eng_ds2y-1299327.pdf
Is (was?) Nais part of Panasonic?
Are Nais relays of decent quality? (I assume they would be if they are part of Panasonic.)
Assuming Nais is adequate, is this particular part appropriate? (It seems to be based on comparisons with the Fujitsu datasheet: https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/164/ry-914629.pdf though I'm terrible with rotating things to match pin-outs.)
Is there are any concerns about this part, I will order some new relays from Mouser.
Thanks,
Dennis
For fearless builders that have already ordered or are considering ordering a PROTOTYPE chassis ...
I am not speaking for the team working on the chassis. They're clearly busy, but I can maybe help.
This is DIY with a bit more emphasis on the Y. Gianluca will have all the latest artwork / dimensions. He is super to work with. A quick e-mail or PM to him, and he'll likely very happily provide anything you need to make an informed decision re: suitable parts for I/O, IEC's, LEDs, switches etc.
Also, some folks have them in-hand already and may have done some quick and dirty measurements and/or have selected their parts of choice. They can share their joy (and possibly pain).
Once the chassis are ready for official release, I feel confident that a suggested parts list will be posted. There is the possibility of even a "back panel kit" similar to the one offered for power amplifiers. It's all a work in progress, and nothing is certain or promised.
Until then... A few questions have popped up that I can answer...
1) I/O - Standard Neutrik D or equivalent mounting dimensions and holes. Some parts come with hardware, some don't. Choose your favorite or ask a friend. I suggested my personal favorites to some early builders and a person directly involved with the chassis. They are the internally mounted ones pictured and their XLR brethren. Two reasons they're my favorites. 1, I think they look nice and clean. 2, More importantly (to me) for a tight build, I can solder the I/O connections before the I/O is mounted in the back panel, then I can mount the I/O. It makes my soldering much cleaner and the installation much easier (for me) particularly with the XLRs. I don't need to have wire running through the hole in the chassis or try to solder the wires to the I/O, mount the I/O, and then solder the wires to the PCBs. Everyone has their own methods, and some may be better than mine... but I use wee tiny wire for my I/O, and I like to try and keep it short and neat. Braiding or twisting my wire, soldering to the PCB, cutting to proper length, soldering to the I/O, and then mounting the I/O works best for me. That method works well for me, and it can only be done with the internally mounted hardware.
2) IEC - A known working part number has been provided. Use that part or a part of your choice that fits the electrical criteria you're certain will work. Compare spec sheets for dimensions if you want the size and holes to match. It's a pretty common cutout. Same with the hardware. Some come with it, and some don't. Ensure that you have a fusing solution.
3) Front panel - You can install a power indicating LED and/or a front panel power switch if you choose. The LED hole is 2mm with a 5mm relief. The switch hole is 6.4mm with a 20mm relief as of the last renderings I peeked at.
Enjoy!
I am not speaking for the team working on the chassis. They're clearly busy, but I can maybe help.
This is DIY with a bit more emphasis on the Y. Gianluca will have all the latest artwork / dimensions. He is super to work with. A quick e-mail or PM to him, and he'll likely very happily provide anything you need to make an informed decision re: suitable parts for I/O, IEC's, LEDs, switches etc.
Also, some folks have them in-hand already and may have done some quick and dirty measurements and/or have selected their parts of choice. They can share their joy (and possibly pain).
Once the chassis are ready for official release, I feel confident that a suggested parts list will be posted. There is the possibility of even a "back panel kit" similar to the one offered for power amplifiers. It's all a work in progress, and nothing is certain or promised.
Until then... A few questions have popped up that I can answer...
1) I/O - Standard Neutrik D or equivalent mounting dimensions and holes. Some parts come with hardware, some don't. Choose your favorite or ask a friend. I suggested my personal favorites to some early builders and a person directly involved with the chassis. They are the internally mounted ones pictured and their XLR brethren. Two reasons they're my favorites. 1, I think they look nice and clean. 2, More importantly (to me) for a tight build, I can solder the I/O connections before the I/O is mounted in the back panel, then I can mount the I/O. It makes my soldering much cleaner and the installation much easier (for me) particularly with the XLRs. I don't need to have wire running through the hole in the chassis or try to solder the wires to the I/O, mount the I/O, and then solder the wires to the PCBs. Everyone has their own methods, and some may be better than mine... but I use wee tiny wire for my I/O, and I like to try and keep it short and neat. Braiding or twisting my wire, soldering to the PCB, cutting to proper length, soldering to the I/O, and then mounting the I/O works best for me. That method works well for me, and it can only be done with the internally mounted hardware.
2) IEC - A known working part number has been provided. Use that part or a part of your choice that fits the electrical criteria you're certain will work. Compare spec sheets for dimensions if you want the size and holes to match. It's a pretty common cutout. Same with the hardware. Some come with it, and some don't. Ensure that you have a fusing solution.
3) Front panel - You can install a power indicating LED and/or a front panel power switch if you choose. The LED hole is 2mm with a 5mm relief. The switch hole is 6.4mm with a 20mm relief as of the last renderings I peeked at.
Enjoy!
My balanced kit is on the way (thanks everyone!) and it seemed a good time to download all the schematics, BOM, etc.
The BOM file has a version indication (I downloaded v5) but this is not the case with the schematics. I have not checked for differences, but want to ensure I have the correct version. Are the schematics in post#1 updated or are schematics in later posts more current?
The BOM file has a version indication (I downloaded v5) but this is not the case with the schematics. I have not checked for differences, but want to ensure I have the correct version. Are the schematics in post#1 updated or are schematics in later posts more current?
All the latest will be in post #1. All revisions are noted within post #1. Very first sentence at the top of post #1 should be clear, but if it's not, please suggest alternate language that will make it more clear. Thanks for asking! We want this to be clear and easy.
Enjoy the build and the tunes!
Enjoy the build and the tunes!
just try them by your self, all you need is small 19V-24V PSU and DMM
if action is normal (non-latching) and if contacts are arranged same as Fujitsu, no brainer
NAIS is good $hit
Thanks. I agree the text should have been clear to me, but I obviously missed it and others might too.
It would be great if a version nr was included in the filenames (e.g. as in the BOM v5 filename) so a later version is easily recognised. A date and version on the images themselves would be ideal.
I downloaded the files to my pc. When I check for changes again in a week or so, I will probably be uncertain if my files are the latest versions. Adding the version to the filenames would identify any changes.
Adding the version (and possibly date) to the image would mean I cannot mistake the hardcopy of an earlier version for the current one.
It may seem elaborate over the top, but imagine finding 3 versions in a year or so when you want to change something to your iron pre. Now which one should I use?
I have not received the pcbs yet, and have not zoomed in to photos posted, but a version on the pcbs would be great too. I understand the snubbers ZM changed/added (s part#) don't involve a big change, but future revisions may be more substantial.
Ideal (for me anyway) would be schematics and BOM with version and revision (within that version). The version would need to correspond to the version on the silkscreen of the pcb.
It would be great if a version nr was included in the filenames (e.g. as in the BOM v5 filename) so a later version is easily recognised. A date and version on the images themselves would be ideal.
I downloaded the files to my pc. When I check for changes again in a week or so, I will probably be uncertain if my files are the latest versions. Adding the version to the filenames would identify any changes.
Adding the version (and possibly date) to the image would mean I cannot mistake the hardcopy of an earlier version for the current one.
It may seem elaborate over the top, but imagine finding 3 versions in a year or so when you want to change something to your iron pre. Now which one should I use?
I have not received the pcbs yet, and have not zoomed in to photos posted, but a version on the pcbs would be great too. I understand the snubbers ZM changed/added (s part#) don't involve a big change, but future revisions may be more substantial.
Ideal (for me anyway) would be schematics and BOM with version and revision (within that version). The version would need to correspond to the version on the silkscreen of the pcb.
^ Love it. Thanks!
So, here's what I've done.
The "single source of truth" is the schematic. Boards come off of schematics. BoMs, which will NOT be kept up to date by me, come off of the schematics and the footprint / silkscreen of the boards.
I have noted within the text of post #1 (or will in a minute or two depending on how quickly things update) which file names correspond to the latest files. Not necessary to backtrack in time and update the previous ones. 🙂 I've also ensured all file names have versioning.
I agree, doc control and clear communication make life much, much easier for everyone.
Thanks again for the clear and actionable suggestions!
Edited to add - I like the idea re: having the doc name and/or clear version notes within the schematics and other documents and have incorporated that where I have control (BoM only).
So, here's what I've done.
The "single source of truth" is the schematic. Boards come off of schematics. BoMs, which will NOT be kept up to date by me, come off of the schematics and the footprint / silkscreen of the boards.
I have noted within the text of post #1 (or will in a minute or two depending on how quickly things update) which file names correspond to the latest files. Not necessary to backtrack in time and update the previous ones. 🙂 I've also ensured all file names have versioning.
I agree, doc control and clear communication make life much, much easier for everyone.
Thanks again for the clear and actionable suggestions!
Edited to add - I like the idea re: having the doc name and/or clear version notes within the schematics and other documents and have incorporated that where I have control (BoM only).
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Hi guys, please, do you have suitable Mouser part numbers for:
-Jumper Headers and Jumpers
-14 Pin Header Components
Thank you.
-Jumper Headers and Jumpers
-14 Pin Header Components
Thank you.
@ItsAllInMyHead whilst checking BOM I've noticed something not clear.
in SE BOM in switching section D1,D2,D3,D4,D5 have "ONLY for SE IN" note, but this is inconsistent since there are only SE In and these diodes should be for relays coil.
in Bal BOM in switching section also D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10 have "ONLY for SE IN" note, as above.
if I'm not wrong ""ONLY for SE IN" note, should be only for DI* diodes (DI1, DI2, DI3, DI4, DI5) in order to close K6 when a SE in is selected.
in SE BOM in switching section D1,D2,D3,D4,D5 have "ONLY for SE IN" note, but this is inconsistent since there are only SE In and these diodes should be for relays coil.
in Bal BOM in switching section also D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10 have "ONLY for SE IN" note, as above.
if I'm not wrong ""ONLY for SE IN" note, should be only for DI* diodes (DI1, DI2, DI3, DI4, DI5) in order to close K6 when a SE in is selected.
I used:
710-61201421621
200-HTSW10307SS
200-HTSW10107GD
474-PRT-09044
The ribbon cable I got from Amazon.
710-61201421621
200-HTSW10307SS
200-HTSW10107GD
474-PRT-09044
The ribbon cable I got from Amazon.
Here is the ribbon cable that I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKLKM7L/ref=twister_B0BK7ZN3DP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKLKM7L/ref=twister_B0BK7ZN3DP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Excellent catch!
Will update accordingly... and test out the new version control / filenames. Thanks!
Edited to add - Done. 🙂
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