In my boards in the space near to M there are a 10k resistor and E space is empty. Mi board is an ma12070 no ma12070P
I was wondering if the E was a path to the /ENABLE pin and the M was a path to the /MUTE pin. Can you follow the pins from the chip? /ENABLE must be pulled low and /MUTE must be pulled high to get sound.
As viewed on the picture I attached, is /MUTE connected to the right side of the R1 pad? Is /ENABLE connected to the right side of the R2 pad?
What's the voltage of the two on the left side of the pads? Perhaps a some solder across the tabs will fix this? It's hard to believe this is the problem unless they expect you to control them using I2C commands during boot up.
What's the voltage of the two on the left side of the pads? Perhaps a some solder across the tabs will fix this? It's hard to believe this is the problem unless they expect you to control them using I2C commands during boot up.
Yes, Mute is connected to the right of R1 and Enable to the right of R2. R1 left give me 5V and R2 0V
I have connected R1 and R2 with a cable for a second and it has sounded for the first time that is already a breakthrough, but it seems strange to me that this is the only way it works
Can you explain me the best way to solder the tabs? Two left sides together without removing the resistors?
As I see it now, R1 and R2 are unpopulated.
The normal startup process allows for the chip to power up before enabling and unmuting it. The reverse process during shutdown. I believe this is to prevent any pops. My MA12070P board has these pins hardwired already, and the pops are more like clicks and not bothersome.
I'd just add a little blob of solder to populate the resistor tabs., even though the proper way is to populate them with zero ohm resistors.
Just to be clear, the red spots on R1 and R2 indicate where zero ohm connections needs to be made.
Does that make sense?
Mmm non working boards as parts are missing. Contact the seller and demand working ones. You should not need to repair new items.
Mine are populated R1 has 200k and R2 10k.
It's strange that another member of this conversation seems to have the same one and his works. Looks like mine doesn’t enable after power on
Yes have that version and it works but had similar problems but my old brain don't remember all and how I solved it.
But it has protection that kicks in if anything is not right, like an loud bump.
Alwayes have both channels connected with ground and two speakers.
It is true, I have observed that if I connect it to the battery without connecting any speaker, the LED does not even turn on, I think that when I connected them to the ADAU1701, perhaps it was not programmed correctly and I put them as in some type of protection
You should try an SMPS first and some real source that you trust not BT and common GND to center pin for both channels.
And power up with signal active.
And power up with signal active.