Without a schematic, we may never know, but it sure seems like the amp is muted and unenabled with no way to change it.
Also, I see nothing that will change the single-ended inputs to differential. If that's the case, then the amp will only supply 20 watts per channel rather that the advertised 80 watts.
Hopefully the new amp will shed light on things.
Also, I see nothing that will change the single-ended inputs to differential. If that's the case, then the amp will only supply 20 watts per channel rather that the advertised 80 watts.
Hopefully the new amp will shed light on things.
While I really like MA12070… it can only achieve 80W in very wild dreams. Even the 2 channels added are less than 80W in total.
Hello, in case anyone is interested, I got a new amp board I plugged it in and it worked, so the previous two were defective. Today I used it and it worked but I accidentally turned it on later without the speaker plugged in and now the LED does not turn on or make any kind of sound, do you know what can happen?
You should have some knowledge prior to working with modules and class D. These don’t like to be operated without load. That is likely a third one gone to semiconductor fields. As usual the supply voltage is not mentioned but that could have had influence too.
The “accidentally” should be banished when working with electric/electronic stuff. Always be careful and think at least twice before doing anything. Repair costs a multiple of the time of the accidental action.
What can happen is that you’ll try a second time with 10 ohm resistors as load and measure. When it is defective you’ll need to buy a new one.
The “accidentally” should be banished when working with electric/electronic stuff. Always be careful and think at least twice before doing anything. Repair costs a multiple of the time of the accidental action.
What can happen is that you’ll try a second time with 10 ohm resistors as load and measure. When it is defective you’ll need to buy a new one.
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in one channel if it has a load but in the other it is not possible that it has broken for that reason?
We can’t possibly know what you did. The focus should be to work tidy and build it into a metal casing with screws in the standoffs, wire it correctly, use the right PSU voltage and power rating, connect a test load to both channels, switch it on and operate it as it should be done.
Not necessarily you but “fast” persons that think to win time by cutting corners (like working with floating PCBs and spaghetti wiring) often have fast dying devices as well 😀
Doing stuff in a defined and tested sequence gives less question marks, trust me. My A8 died when I was not careful which was a good reminder. Frustrating but it happens.
Switching power off before disconnecting anything is also a thoughtful habit.
The best we can offer is that you do stuff as described and show pictures and a drawing before you switch it on. An offer you can’t refuse 🙂
Not necessarily you but “fast” persons that think to win time by cutting corners (like working with floating PCBs and spaghetti wiring) often have fast dying devices as well 😀
Doing stuff in a defined and tested sequence gives less question marks, trust me. My A8 died when I was not careful which was a good reminder. Frustrating but it happens.
Switching power off before disconnecting anything is also a thoughtful habit.
The best we can offer is that you do stuff as described and show pictures and a drawing before you switch it on. An offer you can’t refuse 🙂
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I use it in a bluetooth speaker made on a 3d printer with an ADAU1701 and Bluetooth 5.1, that's why I manipulate it so much because I do a lot of tests, previously I used tpa 3116 without load and doing everything wrong and they never broke, that's why I'm so careless
