Sorry...I assumed R1 and R2 were unpopulated. You did say the amp works if you connect a wire across each resistor, making them zero ohm?
Yesterday tired of trying I connected a cable from R1 to R2 and it sound for a moment so I know that the bluetooth receiver works correctly I think that for a moment the Mute Pin was High and that's why it sound but enable was still High for what that only lasted a second.
One option is to remove the resistors and cross the tracks and send the signal from one pin to the other but I think it's weird because it must be something in the microcontroller that is telling it not to activate the amp and if I do this it may not work after all well besides that I don't trust removing the SMD components.
One option is to remove the resistors and cross the tracks and send the signal from one pin to the other but I think it's weird because it must be something in the microcontroller that is telling it not to activate the amp and if I do this it may not work after all well besides that I don't trust removing the SMD components.
You don't want to connect R1 to R2. I was suggesting connecting one side of R1 to the other side of R1, and connecting one side of R2 to the other side of R2. It appears that the voltage drop across the currently installed resistors is too high. I would just bridge the left and right sides of each resistor with solder creating a zero ohm resistor.
Putting two resistors of 0 ohms will not change the signal, right? Would it be better to pass a signal from one side to the other?
I found this image in another forum, looks like my amp doesn’t initialize correctly. I’ve tried with a 19V SMPS and is the same as with the battery
I found this image in another forum, looks like my amp doesn’t initialize correctly. I’ve tried with a 19V SMPS and is the same as with the battery
Just so I'm clear, do the voltages across the resistors look like this?
+5---R1---0---/MUTE
0---R2---+5---/ENABLE
The board I have has a zero ohm jumpers already installed. If I remove them, I could control the pin voltages through RCTL, but it works fine as is.
+5---R1---0---/MUTE
0---R2---+5---/ENABLE
The board I have has a zero ohm jumpers already installed. If I remove them, I could control the pin voltages through RCTL, but it works fine as is.
Do the voltages across the resistors I just posted match what you are seeing?
+5---R1---0---/MUTE
0---R2---+5---/ENABLE
+5---R1---0---/MUTE
0---R2---+5---/ENABLE
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I’ve checked an Enable is pulled High and Mute is pulled low. How can i change this?
So the voltages on the resistors don't match the voltages on the pins?
Sorry I'm not much help. I was hoping it was more like this now...
+5---R1---+0.25 ---/MUTE
0---R2---+5.00---/ENABLE
And by bypassing the resistors you would end up with this...
+5---------+5 ---/MUTE
0-----------0---/ENABLE
+5---R1---+0.25 ---/MUTE
0---R2---+5.00---/ENABLE
And by bypassing the resistors you would end up with this...
+5---------+5 ---/MUTE
0-----------0---/ENABLE
That's why I thought to cross the tracks from one side to the other, do you think its a good idea?
I'm suggesting this to pull /MUTE high and /ENABLE low. Is this what you mean by crossing the tracks?
I don't know what to say. It looks like when they went from V 1.4 (attached) to V 1.5 they really messed things up.
Unless I'm missing something, the best way to fix V 1.5 is to remove R1 and R2 and hardwire the cross like I believe you are saying.
Here's the back of V 1.4. It exposes the /MUTE and /ENABLE pins. It also allows for differential inputs.
Unless I'm missing something, the best way to fix V 1.5 is to remove R1 and R2 and hardwire the cross like I believe you are saying.
Here's the back of V 1.4. It exposes the /MUTE and /ENABLE pins. It also allows for differential inputs.
Don't think so, my v1.5 board works with those resistors in place.I don't know what to say. It looks like when they went from V 1.4 (attached) to V 1.5 they really messed things up.
So you think there's something on the board that will determine when it's time to pull the /MUTE pin high and the /ENABLE pin low? I've seen Rpi (?) Merus drivers that pause for a second or two before changing the voltage on those pins.
I think that with the resistors on and as it comes, it should work. I don't know what to think anymore. I've ordered another one from AliExpress. If I see that it doesn't work, the problem must be me, although the connection is too simple, I don't understand what's going on.
Maybe messed up is too strong but they certainly tried to make it cheaper.I don't know what to say. It looks like when they went from V 1.4 (attached) to V 1.5 they really messed things up.
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