Good thing is that the channels results look similar i.e. both channels behave the same way.
By the way - you can right click on the numbers in the results table to see more detailed numeric data.
I would recommend standardizing the measurement in the volume knob position that you would prefer to use (I prefer 23:00)
E.g. turn (when adjusting the levels) the windows output level to 0% and then turn the volume knob into your "listening position".
Then slowly (spectrum is updated not in real time but in ca 1 second intervals) turn up the output level in Windows mixer to match the RMAA measurement level.
And then perform the measurement.
Next step would be (just saving time here) to verify that your tone controls are performing ok.
In short:
By the way - you can right click on the numbers in the results table to see more detailed numeric data.
I would recommend standardizing the measurement in the volume knob position that you would prefer to use (I prefer 23:00)
E.g. turn (when adjusting the levels) the windows output level to 0% and then turn the volume knob into your "listening position".
Then slowly (spectrum is updated not in real time but in ca 1 second intervals) turn up the output level in Windows mixer to match the RMAA measurement level.
And then perform the measurement.
Next step would be (just saving time here) to verify that your tone controls are performing ok.
In short:
- untick all tests in RMAA except the first one (frequency response)
- adjust the levels to ca -13dB, presuming that tone control provides ca 10dB boost (yes, RMAA will show red but that will not matter in this case);
- turn treble control (or bass control) to max position and perform the measurement;
- look at results - theys should be similar.
I would like that, however I can’t achieve required recording (green) levels at the position less then 12 o’clock (roughly).. the volume output on laptop is 100%
In general I listen to this amp at low levels and max up to 9-10 o’clock..
"I can’t achieve required recording (green) levels at the position less then 12 o’clock (roughly).." - this is ok when measuring preamplifier output. I do not know the particular volume pot in your amplifier but I have measured potentiometers that provide only 10% of the signa at 12:00.
So this intsruction will be valid once (if) you start measuring speaker output.
But for now - the mixer output 100% on laptop should provide the best source signal quality (but on output signal level 2V AC). Since your amplifier does not have an active input buffer before the volume pot (that theoretically could be overloaded) then just set the RMAA signal level with the volume pot in whichever position it is ok for RMAA.
So this intsruction will be valid once (if) you start measuring speaker output.
But for now - the mixer output 100% on laptop should provide the best source signal quality (but on output signal level 2V AC). Since your amplifier does not have an active input buffer before the volume pot (that theoretically could be overloaded) then just set the RMAA signal level with the volume pot in whichever position it is ok for RMAA.
Click on the rightmost minus-loupe icon to reduce the vertical resolution.
According to this graph one channel tone control is not functioning.
This can also be a measuring error so repeat the measurement.
If this persists then it looks like a malfunction...
According to this graph one channel tone control is not functioning.
This can also be a measuring error so repeat the measurement.
If this persists then it looks like a malfunction...
Wait, wrong me, you have more than one measurement "ticked" in the results table so it is not displaying the channels but measurement sets.
Tick only the result set that you want to see - then you should see Left and Right in the graph legend.
And you should assign the result sets some meaningful names.
Tick only the result set that you want to see - then you should see Left and Right in the graph legend.
And you should assign the result sets some meaningful names.
One more thing 😉 - RMAA lacks the concept of soundcard calibration file. But it does have a button for subtracting one measurement result set from the other (there is a minus-button in the results window).
If you subtract the loopback results from device measurement results then you have eliminated the soundcard effect - at least theoretically speaking...
If you subtract the loopback results from device measurement results then you have eliminated the soundcard effect - at least theoretically speaking...
madis64 hi from the other thread. I had a read thru all your posts. And had some questions.
1. Why cant i use the sound card on the laptop. It has a jack for mic and speaker.
2. I have a really cheap USB card I used to use as a cheap scope. Will that work ?.
3. I have the DATs V3 test system which seems to contain a USB sound card at least when I plug it into any laptop it adds a USB audio codec. It has 2 wires which we connect to speaker terminals or components when testing stuff. Im going to assume this is the equivalent of a sound cards input signal for at least one channel. Maybe I should do a tear down and see if I can figure out if it has any input and output pins inside the box.
I just need to test some tone control boards and graphic equalizers. Play around with some bass boost and treble boost circuits. I like the look of what this amp is using so will go thru the schematic and see if I can build a small circuit to achieve similar results. Basically all my work involves only needing to chk one channel.
1. Why cant i use the sound card on the laptop. It has a jack for mic and speaker.
2. I have a really cheap USB card I used to use as a cheap scope. Will that work ?.
3. I have the DATs V3 test system which seems to contain a USB sound card at least when I plug it into any laptop it adds a USB audio codec. It has 2 wires which we connect to speaker terminals or components when testing stuff. Im going to assume this is the equivalent of a sound cards input signal for at least one channel. Maybe I should do a tear down and see if I can figure out if it has any input and output pins inside the box.
I just need to test some tone control boards and graphic equalizers. Play around with some bass boost and treble boost circuits. I like the look of what this amp is using so will go thru the schematic and see if I can build a small circuit to achieve similar results. Basically all my work involves only needing to chk one channel.
@chinoy
1. Because when you fry the soundcard then if it is internal then you have to replace the motherboard of your laptop.
2. You need to test it. Install RMAA and measure the loopback.
3. I have no idea about V3 test system - take one step at a time and test it out when you have your procedures stable.
1. Because when you fry the soundcard then if it is internal then you have to replace the motherboard of your laptop.
2. You need to test it. Install RMAA and measure the loopback.
3. I have no idea about V3 test system - take one step at a time and test it out when you have your procedures stable.
@madis64
Ah ok. Its an old laptop and if it blows it blows.
But just to be on the safe side I am looking at picking up a USB sound card. They are cheap like 1-2$. I have one which was used as a cheap scope before I got myself a real scope. Only issue is I had to do some mods to use it with the scope s/w. Vaguely remember taking some input caps out of the circuit.
And it still actus as my backup scope.
So looking at my present options I see these new USB sound cards which claim to be 5.1 and 7.1 audio compatible.
Does anybody understand how a simple sound card with one input and one output claim to be 5.1 and 7.1 audio compatible ?.
Here is a sample of what Im seeing as available in the market these days.
I can only buy what is locally being sold in my country.
https://www.flipkart.com/meshiv-7-1...ppn=browse&ssid=y645uw8wlc0000001678514719300
Ah ok. Its an old laptop and if it blows it blows.
But just to be on the safe side I am looking at picking up a USB sound card. They are cheap like 1-2$. I have one which was used as a cheap scope before I got myself a real scope. Only issue is I had to do some mods to use it with the scope s/w. Vaguely remember taking some input caps out of the circuit.
And it still actus as my backup scope.
So looking at my present options I see these new USB sound cards which claim to be 5.1 and 7.1 audio compatible.
Does anybody understand how a simple sound card with one input and one output claim to be 5.1 and 7.1 audio compatible ?.
Here is a sample of what Im seeing as available in the market these days.
I can only buy what is locally being sold in my country.
https://www.flipkart.com/meshiv-7-1...ppn=browse&ssid=y645uw8wlc0000001678514719300
I would prefer a sound card with bigger connector sockets for cables - either RCA or 6,3 mm plugs. It makes life easier when you can use standard cables.