A tibute to the ACA & the ACA mini?

Consider it your own personal challenge: create your very own well designed, low power (10 watts) class AB amplifier, housed NOT in a large metal case.

Maybe those Triad Flat-Pack(TM) mains transformers (link), used by Schiit in other Schiit products, would be a good fit here. If you wanted to bring live AC mains inside your chassis (avoiding power bricks or wall warts) and if you wanted an old-school linear power supply.
 
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You can skimp on the heat sink if you assume that most will operate the amp below 1 W with music signal. That's probably what Schiit does. AFAIR, the newer (2003?) FTC guidelines say the amp should be able to deliver 1/8 of the rated output power for 15 minutes. 1.25 W wouldn't require much of a heat sink. I also seem to recall that the FTC dropped the testing requirement a few years ago so we're back to the Wild West where the manufacturers can claim whatever they want for the output power.

Tom
 
Consider it your own personal challenge: create your very own well designed, low power (10 watts) class AB amplifier, housed NOT in a large metal case.

Maybe those Triad Flat-Pack(TM) mains transformers (link), used by Schiit in other Schiit products, would be a good fit here. If you wanted to bring live AC mains inside your chassis (avoiding power bricks or wall warts) and if you wanted an old-school linear power supply.
If you read the thread you would have seen that I already declared that I dont consider myself to have the skills to do this. I suppose one are still allowed to wish for one?

For me an external double insulated smps power unit is OK.

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Thanks - but I'm on a DIY forum so seeking something to build.

Choose the amp for the load they're driving. For a simple Pass amp go with a variation on the ACA, like a higher voltage, or parallel ACA for higher current (two stereo amps), as everyone knows it and can help you along the way. What kind of Nelson Pass amp do you want? I forgot, you said you wanted a cold one!
 
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Yes, typo, LA90.

0.0001% THD+N at 5 Watts output into 4 Ohms.
LM3886? With a single rail (SMPS 😵)??

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Thanks but I'm seeking a non switching output topology this time. SMSP OK.

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I see that you are struggling to find something to your liking... AB design has a switching output topology according to you,... which I sort of understand; however, then you digress by saying SMPS is okay...?? The quality of any audio product depends on the power supply... like 99% power supply quality - the rest is the whole 1% ... representing everything else.

The FW clones here in the shop are a fantastic introduction to true high-end sound. They will run sort of hotish, and will require a fair amount of area/real estate.... but the sound you'll get from them is superlative.

If you are not keen on building one, see if anyone in Sweeden (or in one of the neighbouring countries) is willing to build one for you.

That Topping is $900 US. Compared to any FW amp, it will measure better... but it will sound nowhere near as nice as a pure class A single-ended design that has only 2 gain stages in its signal path. I believe you can build Aleph J, for example, for around $1000 (with high-quality components included!!).

Or, you could choose the path of trying everything else... that looks better.. is smaller, measures better... and then eventually, once you hear a nicely built FW Clone - you'll realise that you just wasted your money and time.
 
@Extreme_Boky Speaking about power supply importance, I thought exactly like you, but then I changed my mind as (fortunately) there are exceptions to any kind of "rule".
Maybe it depends also on how a power supply is crafted, where it is used, what are its specifications and its exact purpose within a project, and most of all from how your whole system sounds.

So, in my modest opinion (and without any controversy at all), since your opinion has its value I would speak in less absolute terms otherwise it seems that anyone who makes a different choice from a "certain" production has a kind of clouded mind, and it is not so.

The beauty in the Audio of making "your" own system is (almost) all there, at least it is my humble view.
 
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If you don't need a lot of power then i would note that an M2 clone is a peach. It can be relatively conveniently sized/weight with SMPS ut much will depend on your preferred speakers.

But rather than try to analyse a set of numbers that may or may not accurately characterise the level of your future enjoyment, stick a post out to see if there is anyone near to you that had a few examples you can listen to. It might save a lot of $ and effort and save a long trek down the wrong path. Equally try a few different types of speakers.
 
I see that you are struggling to find something to your liking... AB design has a switching output topology according to you,... which I sort of understand; however, then you digress by saying SMPS is okay...?? The quality of any audio product depends on the power supply... like 99% power supply quality - the rest is the whole 1% ... representing everything else.

The FW clones here in the shop are a fantastic introduction to true high-end sound. They will run sort of hotish, and will require a fair amount of area/real estate.... but the sound you'll get from them is superlative.

If you are not keen on building one, see if anyone in Sweeden (or in one of the neighbouring countries) is willing to build one for you.

That Topping is $900 US. Compared to any FW amp, it will measure better... but it will sound nowhere near as nice as a pure class A single-ended design that has only 2 gain stages in its signal path. I believe you can build Aleph J, for example, for around $1000 (with high-quality components included!!).

Or, you could choose the path of trying everything else... that looks better.. is smaller, measures better... and then eventually, once you hear a nicely built FW Clone - you'll realise that you just wasted your money and time.
I seem to have a hard time to express myself accurately. All of a sudden an A/B stage is accused for being a "switching" one? But I guess in the context of class A, it switches, but not in the same way as a class D - so absolutely not "according to me".... But as I was quite clear I wanted a "Class A/B" based amp I cant see really how that happened - the letters fell like "Anyways,,, where is the Diyaudio 5 watt. low distortion, luke warm running class A/B amp?" 🙂

I'm of course grateful for your attempt to help me - thanks - but my quest continues.

Anyways,,, where is the Diyaudio 5 watt. low distortion, luke warm running class A/B amp?

To drive a pair of 16 ohm, 110db/w compression drivers...

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