Apologies for brevity, but most of the house is ripped apart thanks to a 90 year old lead pipe finally deciding it didn't want to carry water.
They need different quantities (and even locations) of damping, so direct comparisons are difficult, though (unusually) both designs can run both drivers, albeit on different alignments. Silbury is high gain [very, with 11MS] so be prepared with a bag of dacron in case of need. This is good. The more gain the better -you can always get rid of what you don't need. 😉
They need different quantities (and even locations) of damping, so direct comparisons are difficult, though (unusually) both designs can run both drivers, albeit on different alignments. Silbury is high gain [very, with 11MS] so be prepared with a bag of dacron in case of need. This is good. The more gain the better -you can always get rid of what you don't need. 😉
If I would try both speakers on both enclosures, how can I manage the need of rebate of the 10.3 vs no need of the 11MS?
So you would enhance the gain of the Silbury with the 11MS?
How can I understand where and how to place the dacron (I have sheep hairs actually).
Thanks,
Roberto
So you would enhance the gain of the Silbury with the 11MS?
How can I understand where and how to place the dacron (I have sheep hairs actually).
Thanks,
Roberto
Thanks, you seem to suggest 11MS on FHXL and Scott to highly suggest them in Silbury. Will you mod the two speakers?
The driver works in both. I just happen to have an empty set of FHXL and some A11ms downstairs. I have not seen A10.3 in the flesh for many years. We did have A10PeN and A10.3eN in FHXL.
dave
dave
No high or any other kind of suggestion here. I simply said 11MS in Silbury is a high gain alignment, so additional damping material may be required. Apologies I can't spend long on the forum, but the house is in pieces, so audio is not high on my priority list at present. 😉
@Scottmoose thanks for anwering even in this difficult situation.
So due to the fact I have a pair of A11MS and a pair of A10.3, and the FHXL has already the cut for the A11MS, I'll install the A10.3 in the Silbury.
@planet10 if you plan to share how to do an A11MSeN, it would be great as well.
So due to the fact I have a pair of A11MS and a pair of A10.3, and the FHXL has already the cut for the A11MS, I'll install the A10.3 in the Silbury.
@planet10 if you plan to share how to do an A11MSeN, it would be great as well.
Bringing back a question about amount of polyfill. The quoted message from Dave suggests that the amount of polyfill should be 90g total per cabinet: 60g in the back and 30g in the front. Am I understanding the messages correctly?
If so, then it's extremely different from the recommendation from Stefan (KJF Audio), who recommends a total of 350g stuffing equally divided front and back:
I am in the process of adding the stuffing to the flat pack I bought from Stefan. Attaching a photo of what it looks like right now. Does this look about right or is that way too much? It shiuod be around 350g total.
Attachments
60 gm in the point, 0-80 g up front.
Your damping needs a lot more teasing. And it looks alot in the front.
dave
Your damping needs a lot more teasing. And it looks alot in the front.
dave
Maybe it could be helpful to ask Stefan to properly redo the part 3 of that video, showing how it will look a properly teased damping and the right amount?
Hola Zintolo! I recently asked a question about drivers in FHXL in particular, perhaps the following detailed response from Dave might be helpful (although I didn't ask anything about Silbury or Pensil ✏ 🙂 )
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...3-10p-fostex-ff165wk-more.246248/post-7187319
Right, I have a five minute window before they start in on the plastering again. As noted, I do not make any specific recommendations about 'should I use xyz'; however, since your FHXL is already cut for 11MS, then I'd use that for obvious reasons, and install 10.3 in Silbury. The 10.3 may have been around for longer but it's still an excellent driver of its size & type, and since it's a smaller unit, the extra efficiency provided by the larger horn is a good thing. It was designed predominantly for the 10 series with other units as options, so overall, a good combination of drivers / cabinets.
Thanks @Scottmoose ! It was the initial idea and I'm happy to stick on that idea.
Some delaying things are postponing my work on them, but I hope to finish both in a few weeks.
Then I'll start the BLANDA-GRÖNSAKER with the Alpair 7.3 (thanks again @planet10 !)
@planet10 I'll ask you some more details on the EnABLe process for those speakers.
I'm really curious to hear it and learn how to do it!
Some delaying things are postponing my work on them, but I hope to finish both in a few weeks.
Then I'll start the BLANDA-GRÖNSAKER with the Alpair 7.3 (thanks again @planet10 !)
@planet10 I'll ask you some more details on the EnABLe process for those speakers.
I'm really curious to hear it and learn how to do it!
I've searched, but probably with the wrong words. I'm sorry if I'm asking something you explained many times.
What are the parameters to define the front damping?
EG: more/less grams, more/less density, more on top or bottom or uniform?
- an amp with more damping needs?
- muddy bass needs?
- other parameters that will affect the damping parameters?
Adding damping up front decreases bass and decreases ripple. If you have a highish Rout amplifier you will likely need more damping.
Room, room placement, and taste are the other factors.
dave
Room, room placement, and taste are the other factors.
dave