Thanks.
I am enjoying it currently.
Now need to get my Zu103 fixed... I bent the cantilever by knocking it off the rack one day cleaning. 😒
Have a Nagaoka MP 110 on currently.
I am enjoying it currently.
Now need to get my Zu103 fixed... I bent the cantilever by knocking it off the rack one day cleaning. 😒
Have a Nagaoka MP 110 on currently.
Quick question for those who've built this - is there any reason not to use an outboard 12V battery vs 5V battery with the silent switcher. I know Pete himself proposes/displays one such example, but just wanted to check if there were any blind spots I hadnt noted.
Thanks
Thanks
If you wanted to make an all battery supply you could follow the example in Pete's article, which has a pair of 12v batteries attached in series and thence wired as a bipolar PSU.
Hey Everyone, quick question for the LR builders... Pete Specs a 1/4 watt resistor across the board in writing - but the BOM leads to 1/8 watt specs. I ordered off the BOM and just want to confirm they are ok.... I would think so but just wondering if anyone had been through this.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Ha! Didn't even see there was a BOM! Cooooool... Still love this preamp. Looking at Pete's BOM he's specing all RN55 resistors (very nice since they are small and the values are labeled on the body)... you can search this online but that series of Dales are mil-spec which are "underrated", so an 1/8W resistor is 1/4W in actuality. You are good to go.
I used his BOM and just transferred part numbers into Mouser and Digikey
If a part number does not come up in Mouser then try Digikey .
I think all the main board is all Mouser,
If a part number does not come up in Mouser then try Digikey .
I think all the main board is all Mouser,
My completed LR. I went with Pete’s Bipolar Linear PSU in its own chassis. The chassis are $20 ebay specials. With the inputs shorted, DC offset per channel is stable at + 0.002v. Once I had all the parts, the project went together quickly and easily. The trickiest part of the build is making sure the CineMags are oriented correctly, which isn’t tricky at all when you reference pictures posed here and on PMillett.com.
The LR is a super quiet (like zero noise), sweet sounding phono pre providing ample sound-staging and dynamics. I was hearing what I thought was a lot of record noise during my first listen, but I haven’t noticed it since. This phono pre compares favorably with the Salas UFSP, though the Ultra is more flexible due to the adjustable gain.
Thanks to Pete Millett for this interesting and great sounding design.
The LR is a super quiet (like zero noise), sweet sounding phono pre providing ample sound-staging and dynamics. I was hearing what I thought was a lot of record noise during my first listen, but I haven’t noticed it since. This phono pre compares favorably with the Salas UFSP, though the Ultra is more flexible due to the adjustable gain.
Thanks to Pete Millett for this interesting and great sounding design.
Attachments
Great looking build - I'm working to build a very compact unit - I've got the boards all set. Am i correct to believe that there isnt a way to power this off a single battery unless I've got a silent switcher going? Was thiking it would be nice to un off a power-bank style. 12V supply; but as far as I can tell I'd need a second one to feed V-
Nice builds here everyone!
I recently finished my second LRP (pictures attached), the first one I built used the SilentSwitcher as a power supply (I might have been one of the first to try that)
I like the compactness and aesthetics of the recent build. It uses a 8"x8" par-metal chassis with internal divider and a VRDN for power supply with a single secondary 18VAC transformer for avoiding mains in the chassis.
Regarding DC offset, do you all adjust it with the input shorted or with a cartridge connected to the input?
Because the issue I've noticed is that DC offset will change depending on the cartridge used, which makes swapping carts quite annoying (and one of the reasons I originally sold it).
As an aside, I've also got the Salas Ultra FSP kit but not much motivation to build yet. I would be curious from folks that lived with both long term on their thoughts on how these fare side by side.
I recently finished my second LRP (pictures attached), the first one I built used the SilentSwitcher as a power supply (I might have been one of the first to try that)
I like the compactness and aesthetics of the recent build. It uses a 8"x8" par-metal chassis with internal divider and a VRDN for power supply with a single secondary 18VAC transformer for avoiding mains in the chassis.
Regarding DC offset, do you all adjust it with the input shorted or with a cartridge connected to the input?
Because the issue I've noticed is that DC offset will change depending on the cartridge used, which makes swapping carts quite annoying (and one of the reasons I originally sold it).
As an aside, I've also got the Salas Ultra FSP kit but not much motivation to build yet. I would be curious from folks that lived with both long term on their thoughts on how these fare side by side.
Attachments
I really like the LR phono. Absolutely fantastic, it’s been in my system more than anything since I built it.
Build the Salas.
Build the Salas.
Good looking build.
I have adjusted to offset with shorted input.
Next time I change cartridge I will report back.
I have adjusted to offset with shorted input.
Next time I change cartridge I will report back.
Hey team, may need some help - Built two of these in tandem (one for a friend) and one (lets call it mine) works wonderfully. And sounds wonderful.
The second, sadly, is a dud. Just some loud humming and it does seem to react to my touch on the chassis (both are battery powered). I discovered that I had installed one of the opamps in the wrong orientation (big whoops) and have since replaced, but other than that I cant find any obvious culprits. I wanted to check in and see if there were any suggestions on troubleshooting - because frankly, barring the inductors and opamps, it may be more time/cost effective to get a fresh PCB and the remainder parts and build another fresh.
I love how it sounds.
The second, sadly, is a dud. Just some loud humming and it does seem to react to my touch on the chassis (both are battery powered). I discovered that I had installed one of the opamps in the wrong orientation (big whoops) and have since replaced, but other than that I cant find any obvious culprits. I wanted to check in and see if there were any suggestions on troubleshooting - because frankly, barring the inductors and opamps, it may be more time/cost effective to get a fresh PCB and the remainder parts and build another fresh.
I love how it sounds.
I have my input RCA jacks isolated from the chassis and wired to the grounds on the board. I’m using a PSU to power the preamp. Are you using the chassis as a common ground? Is that typical when powering by battery?