What happens if you made them 24" wide or 30" wide, does they will go lower?, or just throw off the loading of the driver and will damage it by over excursion.
Wider won't go any lower.
The 15" width was chosen as a multiple of 90", a common USA truck box width.
Doubling the width and adding a second driver would increase output by 6dB, though you may be better building two boxes, considering a wide box would need bracing down the center.
Alpine makes some 12" with similar TS parameters to the LAB 12, this cabinet would be a better fit than the SS15 for that type of driver.
The 15" width was chosen as a multiple of 90", a common USA truck box width.
Doubling the width and adding a second driver would increase output by 6dB, though you may be better building two boxes, considering a wide box would need bracing down the center.
Alpine makes some 12" with similar TS parameters to the LAB 12, this cabinet would be a better fit than the SS15 for that type of driver.
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I was looking at some plate amps with DSP, i think i am going to the "active cab"style , but i just need to need some help about some questions i have
in order to get the right size of plate amp for this PAL12 project,
is it better to get the 4 ohm version of the LAB12 to pull the most power from the plate amp ?
what size of plate amp do i need to get the most SPL of 1 cabinet (double the RMS rating of the LAB12 ? )
what HP, LP settings and Voltage limiter settings on the DSP
in order to get the right size of plate amp for this PAL12 project,
is it better to get the 4 ohm version of the LAB12 to pull the most power from the plate amp ?
what size of plate amp do i need to get the most SPL of 1 cabinet (double the RMS rating of the LAB12 ? )
what HP, LP settings and Voltage limiter settings on the DSP
Handles 800 W dynamic headroom, so typically want at least +3 - 6 dB headroom to ensure the amp is low noise, (likely) no clipping, so from ~1600-3200 W/8 ohms since more current = more motor heat = more thermal power distortion, but doubt there's a plate amp that can actually deliver this much power except maybe @ 4 ohms.
well actually is 1500x2@8ohm, 2400x2@4ohm, im asking if it can be bridged
there is a 1kw one, but that will not cut it right ?
there is a 1kw one, but that will not cut it right ?
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Geez, after a while you can't edit the post anymore and need to post another one... ok so
Where do you guys source your hardware for the cabinets , like the driver nuts , speakon panel and connectors, finishing paint and one of the most hard thing
to get or custom made right, the GRILL !! ( not the one for steaks 😀 )
Where do you guys source your hardware for the cabinets , like the driver nuts , speakon panel and connectors, finishing paint and one of the most hard thing
to get or custom made right, the GRILL !! ( not the one for steaks 😀 )
15" is also a good width because plywood is 48" wide so you can get 3 pieces and a bit of extra for kerfs, crooked cuts, and such..
does this driver one works on this design
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...cursion-DVC-Subwoofer-2-Ohms-Per-Coil-295-166
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...cursion-DVC-Subwoofer-2-Ohms-Per-Coil-295-166
ok, i will get a 1kw plate amp for my 1st sub
i will upload pics as the build progress ( a friend of mine who have a wood shop will help me )
i will put 60hz sine wave test tone. with the volt meter on the driver to what voltage i set the limiter so to not damage the LAB12
( i will get the 4 ohm one )
what are the LP and HP settings,
i wish that those are included on the PDF plans on the 1st post, there is 2 PDF cutlists and 1 PDF for the actual plans but the filters are not included inside
also, how do you break in the LAB12, play a 20hz test tone with the bare driver for 24 ? 48 hours ? and at how many volts
since the LAB12 is not a 4kw driver, can i use 1/2" ply ?
to save some weight as there is not a neodymium LAB12 ( i wish)
where the most flex will happen? see the pic below
i will upload pics as the build progress ( a friend of mine who have a wood shop will help me )
i will put 60hz sine wave test tone. with the volt meter on the driver to what voltage i set the limiter so to not damage the LAB12
( i will get the 4 ohm one )
what are the LP and HP settings,
i wish that those are included on the PDF plans on the 1st post, there is 2 PDF cutlists and 1 PDF for the actual plans but the filters are not included inside
also, how do you break in the LAB12, play a 20hz test tone with the bare driver for 24 ? 48 hours ? and at how many volts
since the LAB12 is not a 4kw driver, can i use 1/2" ply ?
to save some weight as there is not a neodymium LAB12 ( i wish)
where the most flex will happen? see the pic below
Attachments
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Remove the corner reflector. It takes away from the modeled volume. See jbell's Single Sheet Tapped Horn thread. He discusses how he tested his enclosure with and without corner reflectors. There is a loss in dB's with them, unless you factor in the volume they take in the actual build.
Can i use 1/2" ply instead of 3/4" , maybe add some bracing on the bigger panels , if the deflection of the wood only takes away 1db or less ,i think the weight loss gain is justified
The LAB12C impedance minima in cabinet is near the DCR of 3.11 ohms.
Long term limiting should be set to around 28volts, 250watts, half the AES free air rating.
Peak limiting of 1000 watts, around 56 volts.
HP at 30Hz BW24, LP around 80-100 Hz depending on top cabinet response.
As a guess, 20 volts at 20Hz in free air should reach Xmax, the driver would be broken in in a few hours.
If weight savings are more important to you than sound quality, no problem, though the casters may punch through..
On the largest unsupported panel widths.
Art