Using IIR filtering (Ultradrive / Driverack) would solve the delay problem. However, that should be the least of the OP's worries.
Agree, that was my first statement, that he would, or should limit to using IIR with video, to avoid all those gotchas.
Long way down the list of concerns, but a dealbreaker if youve got that far without realising. streaming video/netflix (or live TV) etc would require designing and building your own system from the ground up, to buffer the whole stream, separate the audio for processing and delay the video to match the filter length (the delay of course would need to be different for every sample rate, or just resample all to the same rate) Given the codecs and intellectual copyright you would need to be privy to to achieve this, this alone would be a VERY expensive project; I would think.
Long way down the list of concerns, but a dealbreaker if youve got that far without realising. streaming video/netflix (or live TV) etc would require designing and building your own system from the ground up, to buffer the whole stream, separate the audio for processing and delay the video to match the filter length (the delay of course would need to be different for every sample rate, or just resample all to the same rate) Given the codecs and intellectual copyright you would need to be privy to to achieve this, this alone would be a VERY expensive project; I would think.
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Vineet Reddy:
* Get big 15" pro-audio woofers (e.g. Faital 15PR400) and the BMS coaxials with the passive network. That's your 2-way speaker for learning purposes. Costs would be INR 45k approx per side.
* Get car (plate) amps for 6 channels @ 50-100W per channel and a 300W ATX PSU to run them on 12V.
* After successful 2-way lessons, you may disconnect the passive network to run active 3-way, with proper level attenuation, EQ and time-alignment. That's your 3-way ultimate speaker.
* Get 18" subwoofer(s) to augment the above (if you're not already tired / bankrupt).
However, I can't guarantee satisfaction as it is a subjective matter.
* Get big 15" pro-audio woofers (e.g. Faital 15PR400) and the BMS coaxials with the passive network. That's your 2-way speaker for learning purposes. Costs would be INR 45k approx per side.
* Get car (plate) amps for 6 channels @ 50-100W per channel and a 300W ATX PSU to run them on 12V.
* After successful 2-way lessons, you may disconnect the passive network to run active 3-way, with proper level attenuation, EQ and time-alignment. That's your 3-way ultimate speaker.
* Get 18" subwoofer(s) to augment the above (if you're not already tired / bankrupt).
However, I can't guarantee satisfaction as it is a subjective matter.
thisI would avoid. My minidsp 2x4hd died a couple months past its warranty, but it had been sowing signs of that for 6 months and it was never a great performer. I believe the crappy onboard power supply and adapter is responsible for killing it in the end. BTW, it had seen very little use, yet it still died.
avoid mini dsp at all cost
then forget your paradigm premier goalWould rather have dedicated DSPs for each speaker controlling the drivers and the AVR controlling the speakers and SUBs and AMPs for SUBs which have enough control to tweak subs accordingly. Crownamps have some really good amps for SUBs. I will have the ability to control the audio at different levels. Yes more complex but also very cost effective.
you want ultimate soundstage then talk about tons of DSP, crown amps, subs, AVR
its like trying to win the F1 title with a corolla. do you understand?
buy used hi fi gear. at least these can be re-sold
Yup. First the optical input started playing up. or rather the output while using optical would start to distort, like the opamps, or something were not getting enough power. voltages seemed within spec. I would switch to USB (noisy, blitter noise that I dont get on anything else using USB on the same computer) but it would work for a bit (days, not weeks and eventually minutes), then the same symptoms would start with the output of that. I tried with just running 2 of the outs with a full range signal and it was the same regardless what outs were used. I initially used the i2s outputs, but found the processing power not enough. it didnt have the same issue then, butI havent tried it with i2s since the issues, as I would rather not connect it to anything valuable.
same my mini dsp stopped working within 2 yearsYup. First the optical input started playing up. or rather the output while using optical would start to distort, like the opamps, or something were not getting enough power. voltages seemed within spec. I would switch to USB (noisy, blitter noise that I dont get on anything else using USB on the same computer) but it would work for a bit (days, not weeks and eventually minutes), then the same symptoms would start with the output of that. I tried with just running 2 of the outs with a full range signal and it was the same regardless what outs were used. I initially used the i2s outputs, but found the processing power not enough. it didnt have the same issue then, butI havent tried it with i2s since the issues, as I would rather not connect it to anything valuable.
and it sounded horrible when it did work
then forget your paradigm premier goal
you want ultimate soundstage then talk about tons of DSP, crown amps, subs, AVR
its like trying to win the F1 title with a corolla. do you understand?
buy used hi fi gear. at least these can be re-sold
this
avoid mini dsp at all cost
MiniDSP that bad. Yeah will avoid it. Thanks for letting me know.Yup. First the optical input started playing up. or rather the output while using optical would start to distort, like the opamps, or something were not getting enough power. voltages seemed within spec. I would switch to USB (noisy, blitter noise that I dont get on anything else using USB on the same computer) but it would work for a bit (days, not weeks and eventually minutes), then the same symptoms would start with the output of that. I tried with just running 2 of the outs with a full range signal and it was the same regardless what outs were used. I initially used the i2s outputs, but found the processing power not enough. it didnt have the same issue then, butI havent tried it with i2s since the issues, as I would rather not connect it to anything valuable.
No worries. If the performance was really good beforehand I would have spent some more time troubleshooting, but its too janky for the effort and I need more channels anyway.
Another reason to be considering DIY passive speakers rather than active.MiniDSP that bad. Yeah will avoid it. Thanks for letting me know.
I've had a minidsp 4x10HD with B&O ICEpower modules running 24/7 for 9 years now. Original power got hot after some 6 years, I replaced it with some leftover of a laptop.
I have three 2x4HD units, no faults but only one is used 24/7, without problems for perhaps 4 years now.
Some others have had problems with Hypex FA boards, but not me. Four FA123 have been in use for 3 years without problems. 123 has only passive cooling, bigger ones have fans.
I have three 2x4HD units, no faults but only one is used 24/7, without problems for perhaps 4 years now.
Some others have had problems with Hypex FA boards, but not me. Four FA123 have been in use for 3 years without problems. 123 has only passive cooling, bigger ones have fans.
Perhaps earlier production models were better. I know people that have had good experience with the higher end models, but my experience has been universally bad. First I tried to buy the minisharc and they accepted my order when it had been EOLd and I had to chase for a refund.
the 2x4hd has been absolutely babied, no mods and hardly used, so its not on me and the way it failed, you would think the entire board was faulty ... They are cheap and made to a price and the processing power is pretty lame by todays standards IMO. also selling me the old UMIK version with it when the release of the far superior (and actually suitable for FIR) UMIK 2 was seemingly only days away and they didnt mention it ... well lets just say that didnt leave a good taste in my mouth either.
the 2x4hd has been absolutely babied, no mods and hardly used, so its not on me and the way it failed, you would think the entire board was faulty ... They are cheap and made to a price and the processing power is pretty lame by todays standards IMO. also selling me the old UMIK version with it when the release of the far superior (and actually suitable for FIR) UMIK 2 was seemingly only days away and they didnt mention it ... well lets just say that didnt leave a good taste in my mouth either.
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Yes, but that requires a lot of learning, more learning than is necessary to operate an active crossover. However, the OP seems to be interested in DIY only because he believes he can save money, and clearly not because he would learn something.Another reason to be considering DIY passive speakers rather than active.
Original power got hot after some 6 years, I replaced it with some leftover of a laptop.
All digital circuits like DSPs, FPGAs, computer processors etc. often draw large peak currents (not average currents) that thermally cycle the power supply, reducing its reliability and accelerating its ageing. For example, the Intel Pentium IV draws peak currents of about 100A at 1.2V and the newer Intel Core series are known to draw over 140A. Note that these are not average but peak currents.
Passive DIY doesn't require any learning at all if he simply builds from a kit created by one of the well qualified designers. And he will be able to save a lot of money in the process.Yes, but that requires a lot of learning, more learning than is necessary to operate an active crossover. However, the OP seems to be interested in DIY only because he believes he can save money, and clearly not because he would learn something.
...
You think? 😍 🙂🙁😱😡😢 😍🙂🙁😱😡😢 ...Yes. Don't plan to move them across or rework on them unless something fails electronically. It will be set for at-least a decade.
And yet it makes the most sense for someone who wants to build great speakers at a very reasonable cost, doesn't really have the experience to design them himself.That is proving a hard sell, whether active OR passive
You think? 😍 🙂🙁😱😡😢 😍🙂🙁😱😡😢 ...
yeah, that statement alone tells us how much DIY audio he/she's been involved with 😛
It does indeed. That being said, he IS limited somewhat by availability and location. It is Worth mentioning that Digikey stocks a pretty reasonable range of drivers these days and shipping is free on any order you would make for speakers (anything over 60AUD/50USD IIRC) So if you can locate a kit/design that utilises drivers that can be found there, you can save a fair bit of money.And yet it makes the most sense for someone who wants to build great speakers at a very reasonable cost, doesn't really have the experience to design them himself.
Hey if DIY PCs which are also electronics and consist of lot many components assembled together can last a Decade. I don't see why Audio components which also consist of electronic components to be assembled or assembled cannot last a Decade. Is quality on Audio components that poor. That shouldn't be the case right. Electronics are electronics. If treated well should last long.yeah, that statement alone tells us how much DIY audio he/she's been involved with 😛
It does indeed. That being said, he IS limited somewhat by availability and location. It is Worth mentioning that Digikey stocks a pretty reasonable range of drivers these days and shipping is free on any order you would make for speakers (anything over 60AUD/50USD IIRC) So if you can locate a kit/design that utilises drivers that can be found there, you can save a fair bit of money.
No that wasn't my point! 🙂Hey if DIY PCs which are also electronics and consist of lot many components assembled together can last a Decade. I don't see why Audio components which also consist of electronic components to be assembled or assembled cannot last a Decade. Is quality on Audio components that poor. That shouldn't be the case right. Electronics are electronics. If treated well should last long.
Thing is, once you get into something like this, it becomes a hobby - and you'll get upgradeitis, whether you buy or build it yourself. And especially if you find yourself getting involved with the design process...
(And that comment used more than my previous sum total of emojis!)
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