what are your project goals? efficiency, extension, cabinet size, intended SPL, budget?Yes was definitely planning to go Active route as I know the complexity of building a passive 3-way crossover. That is what my title describes right.
18' x 20' x 10' seating will be 12' from front wall so rear wall will be 6' away.
what amp you plan on using.
enclosure. I would like to keep it within 1'(305mm) wide if possible. Depth 1-2'(305-610mm). SPL 85-90db continuous and 105db peak, nothing more than that. Budget trying to keep the price for pair of speakers around INR1,30,000.what are your project goals? efficiency, extension, cabinet size, intended SPL, budget?
so about 1600 usd?enclosure. I would like to keep it within 1'(305mm) wide if possible. Depth 1-2'(305-610mm). SPL 85-90db continuous and 105db peak, nothing more than that. Budget trying to keep the price for pair of speakers around INR1,30,000.
what about extension? F3 (-3db point)?
enclosure. I would like to keep it within 1'(305mm) wide if possible. Depth 1-2'(305-610mm)..
If you want proper midbass, you better have more width and height (baffle area) than depth for the box, that's a conceptual thing.
Dayton Audio
SB Acoustics
HiVi
Peerless Tymphany
Fountek
Aurum Cantus(Only Tweeters)
Tang Band
GRS
Wavecor
BMS
JBL
SB Audience
SB Acoustics
HiVi
Peerless Tymphany
Fountek
Aurum Cantus(Only Tweeters)
Tang Band
GRS
Wavecor
BMS
JBL
SB Audience
The other source.. the two ways.what do you mean by ''the other side''
Will keep that in mind. See getting much useful info out of you guys. And then people wonder why I am even here asking questions. LOL.If you want proper midbass, you better have more width and height (baffle area) than depth for the box, that's a conceptual thing.
Listed the brand list.so about 1600 usd?
what about extension? F3 (-3db point)?
Well even if some wrong info is slipped in midst of all this conversation. It is not like I will be following it blindly. Will definitely do my research before coming to a conclusion and implementing stuff into my final list and build.How would you know which information is correct?
I will be doing a lot of time into enclosure design specifically by reading and learning from already tried and tested and proven designs and designers.How would you know which information is correct?
But before that lets get decided on the drivers. Would rather work around a given driver according to its spec instead of finding a suitable driver for a pre designed enclosure. Is that even possible. Don't know.
If you can have Daytonaudio and Peerless (Vifa), you can build 3-way URS3100 http://repromania.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&p=79988 from the Czech-Slovak author.
Dayton DC250-8
Dayton RS125P
Vifa BC25TG-15/04
He sells plan for a nice price, it uses affordable drivers, but very well tuned, so it became kind of reference at DIY listening sessions.
I completelly understand you do not want to build a small 2-ways first, I also started with 3-way actives (and currently building larger one). But with current knowledge I would start with proven 3-way passive project.
Dayton DC250-8
Dayton RS125P
Vifa BC25TG-15/04
He sells plan for a nice price, it uses affordable drivers, but very well tuned, so it became kind of reference at DIY listening sessions.
I completelly understand you do not want to build a small 2-ways first, I also started with 3-way actives (and currently building larger one). But with current knowledge I would start with proven 3-way passive project.
Yes. People do wonder why you are making such a big deal out a pair of front left and right speakers for an HT system, since you will probably never know the difference compared to a pair of much simpler passive 2-ways.Will keep that in mind. See getting much useful info out of you guys. And then people wonder why I am even here asking questions. LOL.
If this was for critical stereo listening to music, it might pay to do 3-way active speakers. But for HT it seems to be a huge overkill. And you still haven't addressed the Center channel requirement for a serious HT system.
If you can, try not to do that.But before that lets get decided on the drivers.
You will make bad decisions, based only on subjective opinions or some arbitrary brand reputation.
You should at least have a rough idea of what you want and how to achive it technically. That means: learning and getting into loudspeaker design first and then choose the right drivers or the right project, respectively. I know it's hard, but that's how technical development works.
(To be honest I always struggle not to make that same mistake myself. And sometimes I do ... but i try not to spend too much money!)
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I know this is not what some will like to hear, but building what has been described here, will take someone who has at least spent a few years with all kinds of acoustics and electronics. You will not get the necessary knowledge in a few hours! I get the idea what kind of person you are: You think you can become the next Formula 1 champion, if only someone gave you the right car and a few dozen laps on a race course. As anyone can win a F1 race with the right car. These race car guys only pretend to be something special...
You can not build an F1 car by looking at photographs of the last winners model. Just as you can not build a good speaker by looking at some successful 3-ways. You can not even choose good chassis for a certain task, by looking into an online catalog. You have to know what you do and such knowledge is only available to you by learning and doing. In small steps, or you will land on your face and get a bloody nose. Sorry.
By the way, for HT, active or passive, a two way speaker, designed to work with a sub woofer usually is best. As it comes nearest to a point source, without all the problems of a coax system. For high levels, go for a MTM speaker, instead of a large 3-way. Not all will agree with this, but in your price range, no one will say this is really wrong. Did I say it is hard to do a good 2-way, but close to impossible to design a perfect 3-way for any hobbyist? No matter active or passive.
One last word: Take what ever speaker you already have and get measuring equipment. Learn how to use it. This is the very first step, just like a drivers license for a F1 driver. Yes, they need one...
You can not build an F1 car by looking at photographs of the last winners model. Just as you can not build a good speaker by looking at some successful 3-ways. You can not even choose good chassis for a certain task, by looking into an online catalog. You have to know what you do and such knowledge is only available to you by learning and doing. In small steps, or you will land on your face and get a bloody nose. Sorry.
By the way, for HT, active or passive, a two way speaker, designed to work with a sub woofer usually is best. As it comes nearest to a point source, without all the problems of a coax system. For high levels, go for a MTM speaker, instead of a large 3-way. Not all will agree with this, but in your price range, no one will say this is really wrong. Did I say it is hard to do a good 2-way, but close to impossible to design a perfect 3-way for any hobbyist? No matter active or passive.
One last word: Take what ever speaker you already have and get measuring equipment. Learn how to use it. This is the very first step, just like a drivers license for a F1 driver. Yes, they need one...
Micheal Schumacher was consider by many to be an excellent driver at F1 level, I believe his everyday drive was a Toyota Corolla.
As they say in the cartoons "Rotsaruck"
As they say in the cartoons "Rotsaruck"
Do you know if he had a good car stereo in his Yoda?Micheal Schumacher was consider by many to be an excellent driver at F1 level, I believe his everyday drive was a Toyota Corolla.
As they say in the cartoons "Rotsaruck"
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I would avoid. My minidsp 2x4hd died a couple months past its warranty, but it had been sowing signs of that for 6 months and it was never a great performer. I believe the crappy onboard power supply and adapter is responsible for killing it in the end. BTW, it had seen very little use, yet it still died.Yeah MiniDSP 2x4 HD is Fine I guess. I think the issue you are speaking of is with MiniDSP 2x4. So no problem I was going for HD version anyways. As it is said to have very low THD for what it matters.
Micheal Schumacher was consider by many to be an excellent driver at F1 level...
After his retirement, he had made a very decent attempt to get back on two wheels, something few people had noticed at the time.
https://www.motorcyclenews.com/spor...7michaelschumacherstunsinducati800motogpride/
Nah man probably because you guys don't use expensive speakers specifically for HT or have only checked out movies with poor mixes you guys think it is overkill for HT. Trust me it is not. 3-way speakers actually make a greater difference for Movies than for music. The imaging and sound stage as well as dispersion play a huge role in how the audio of Movies is experienced.Yes. People do wonder why you are making such a big deal out a pair of front left and right speakers for an HT system, since you will probably never know the difference compared to a pair of much simpler passive 2-ways.
If this was for critical stereo listening to music, it might pay to do 3-way active speakers. But for HT it seems to be a huge overkill. And you still haven't addressed the Center channel requirement for a serious HT system.
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