I have found the exact same thing with regard to cathode bypass. Anything you do there has a large impact on the sound. Fixed bias with cathode grounded sounds best to me. Sometimes, it is unavoidable though and in that case Wima and co. to the rescue.
WoW! Just look at their description of the audio qualities of these capacitors. We should all settle for these! Right?
● Due to the silk fiber's pliability, the capacitor makes a dream of the high quality sound. For examples ;
● To relieve the music's vibration energy.
● To decrease the peak feeling sound at high compass and rough quality sound at middle compass.
● To increase massive sound at low compass.
● Due to the silk fiber's pliability, the capacitor makes a dream of the high quality sound. For examples ;
● To relieve the music's vibration energy.
● To decrease the peak feeling sound at high compass and rough quality sound at middle compass.
● To increase massive sound at low compass.
Hi, you mean actual alligator terminated test leads were involved, or you just used alligators to press hold capacitor legs directly on the circuit points?
Alligator clip test leads were used from the circuit connection points to the positive / negative terminals of the capacitor for the sake of swapping parts quickly.
LEDs do have a dynamic resistance. Thus they can also be AC bypassed with a capacitor. But maybe larger in uF value. Try that. I had in the past.
Oops! Parasitic inductance and parasitic resistance were added. How long were the alligator test leads?
Rick, that 360Ω is static resistance. Dynamic resistance is how much the current changes if you vary the voltage a bit (or vice versa).
Jan
Jan
I recognize it isn't ideal, if nothing else these parasitics were applied to all capacitors involved. I won't be submitting these findings to a peer-reviewed journal, thankfully.
No its not trivial, the leads do make a difference. I had problems with crock leads when testing parts in point to point tube circuits, on speaker crossovers etc. From outright oscillations to simply sounding nothing like before when soldered in place. Short thick cables and Wago 211 inline connectors is the best easiest method I found to swap parts in. Traditional white nylon ones with screws do the job too, only slower to swap a part.
nice test , the green nichicon es bipolar test very low hd ....
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Fair enough, frankly I did not intend to publish any test results, only after the fact did I think others might be interested in trying these Jupiter capacitors, otherwise I probably would have been more rigorous. I did not hear or measure anything that would suggest parasitic oscillations however. I have had the opposite experience - what I have prototyped has largely resembled the sound of the final circuit, alligator leads notwithstanding. But I am predominantly working on single-ended class A designs without NFB, so the propensity for instability is low(er).
My circuit needs to be tested again when new parts arrive, I can always go back and compare again with alligator clips soldered directly to the capacitor leads, like below, although this is much more time consuming (and I will need more alligator clips).
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Might be a good idea to put spaghetti on the wires and insulating boots on the clips if you are going near high voltage with that.
All parts tests will sound cleaner and bolder connected this way. Why not solder short wires on the test nodes instead and swap caps through electrician's inline screw connectors like those white ones in your test bed picture.
Why not try just one cathode bypass cap on alligator leads vs your best direct to nodes method first. So to know if there is enough clarity to gain for your subjectives before retesting them all.
Here's what I'll do - when testing the final circuit, I'll buy a second set of Jupiter capacitors and will compare directly soldered alligator clips vs. alligator test leads. I will take some measurements of both as well and report back. It will be a month or so until I have the components.
All of the electrolytic capacitors must be broken in for a significant period of time before testing.
Wow, really?
ESR is a useless measurement for audio coupling and decoupling applications. If the capacitor is the right size, it has to be pretty bad to make an audible difference. Honestly, this entire subject is rife with inaccuracies and people who are wedded to a specific outcome.
What is effective is D-A at the various frequencies, it correlates with listening tests. But it isn't any brand of capacitor, it is a dielectric as long as the cap is constructed decently. Same for electrolytic caps. I've been testing capacitors for this since the early 80's continuously - with feedback from customers across that entire time. No one had a horse in that race and I was just curious since I studied parts and also test equipment circuits. Test equipment engineers agree and had the truth figured out long before I came on the scene.
Do you know why people measure ESR? Because it is cheap to do and generates a number. None of you understand what the number means sadly. When you compare an ESR figure to the impedance of the circuit it's in, what do you realise? Think about it for a moment and get back to - yourself. Use some common sense. Distortion is caused by non-linear signal energy loss in the circuit. Now think, what can cause that? There are situations where a circuit is sensitive to these effects, and I'm not going to give you the answer. Many of us know and are not posting in this thread.
At any rate, this argument rages on across the internet on many web sites. Argued by audio folk who aren't trained and really don't know. Clue #1, one brand is better than another. As long as the part is made by a quality manufacturer, you can't hear it really. What you do hear is something called expectation bias. I know I just offended a ton of people out there, oh well. The truth is often inconvenient and people who sell parts love these debates.
You know what is extremely important? Try installing these parts without damaging the rubber seal. Some old caps are still in excellent condition, and most are not subjected to stress. That leaves the very cheap ones and the odd failure. For that I see a constant stream of abused equipment that has been "recapped". You are better off leaving it alone, or replacing parts you know have failed.
To heck with it. Too many people are heavily invested in this debate.
ESR is a useless measurement for audio coupling and decoupling applications. If the capacitor is the right size, it has to be pretty bad to make an audible difference. Honestly, this entire subject is rife with inaccuracies and people who are wedded to a specific outcome.
What is effective is D-A at the various frequencies, it correlates with listening tests. But it isn't any brand of capacitor, it is a dielectric as long as the cap is constructed decently. Same for electrolytic caps. I've been testing capacitors for this since the early 80's continuously - with feedback from customers across that entire time. No one had a horse in that race and I was just curious since I studied parts and also test equipment circuits. Test equipment engineers agree and had the truth figured out long before I came on the scene.
Do you know why people measure ESR? Because it is cheap to do and generates a number. None of you understand what the number means sadly. When you compare an ESR figure to the impedance of the circuit it's in, what do you realise? Think about it for a moment and get back to - yourself. Use some common sense. Distortion is caused by non-linear signal energy loss in the circuit. Now think, what can cause that? There are situations where a circuit is sensitive to these effects, and I'm not going to give you the answer. Many of us know and are not posting in this thread.
At any rate, this argument rages on across the internet on many web sites. Argued by audio folk who aren't trained and really don't know. Clue #1, one brand is better than another. As long as the part is made by a quality manufacturer, you can't hear it really. What you do hear is something called expectation bias. I know I just offended a ton of people out there, oh well. The truth is often inconvenient and people who sell parts love these debates.
You know what is extremely important? Try installing these parts without damaging the rubber seal. Some old caps are still in excellent condition, and most are not subjected to stress. That leaves the very cheap ones and the odd failure. For that I see a constant stream of abused equipment that has been "recapped". You are better off leaving it alone, or replacing parts you know have failed.
To heck with it. Too many people are heavily invested in this debate.