Very nice. Could you bless us with a link to the chassis?Another ACP+ Is alive in Hammond case. LED is muttering “almost there…”
1V in, 5.8VPP out. Driving F4 nicely.
PSU is 24V.
thd 0.08-0.12% RCA out
9.8mA through R4 (47R)
Sounds wonderful with 32ohm headphones.
Regards,
Andy
Here it is: https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/546-1455T2201
I wonder if Store ACP fits but they comes in different sizes.
I wonder if Store ACP fits but they comes in different sizes.
Thanks!Here it is: https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/546-1455T2201
I wonder if Store ACP fits but they comes in different sizes.
I’ll check it out wrt sizes.
regards,
Andy
Thank you for that info! Almost 6v should do the job for me tooAnother ACP+ Is alive in Hammond case. LED is muttering “almost there…”
1V in, 5.8VPP out. Driving F4 nicely.
PSU is 24V.
thd 0.08-0.12% RCA out
9.8mA through R4 (47R)
Sounds wonderful with 32ohm headphones.
The truth is that I was also asking for use with my F-4s but “Will it drive an F-4” is an ongoing joke around here
And I really needed to know! However I think that for max output the F-4 can handle voltage up in the teens
The Front End card named Marauder can drive a 50 volt (peak-to-trough) sine wave. That's 17.5V RMS. Gerbers are freely available on the Forum, just use Search.
That would probably be a great match! And it makes sense as the F-4 has absolutely no gain stage!
I think the Impasse tube preamp that Stuart Yaniger designed for the F-4 and that I use now, puts out about 18v also.
I think the Impasse tube preamp that Stuart Yaniger designed for the F-4 and that I use now, puts out about 18v also.
Here’s the data sheet for the Hammond chassis, to help with the sizes
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/177/1457-1389969.pdf
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/177/1457-1389969.pdf
Mark
PSU for ACP+ is 24Vdc
so , in best and somewhat idealistic case, you can expect 22Vpp at output
you need double that for full blast of SE F4 , where voltage envelope is +/-22V5, so 45V
PSU for ACP+ is 24Vdc
so , in best and somewhat idealistic case, you can expect 22Vpp at output
you need double that for full blast of SE F4 , where voltage envelope is +/-22V5, so 45V
Hello sov,Another ACP+ Is alive in Hammond case. LED is muttering “almost there…”
1V in, 5.8VPP out. Driving F4 nicely.
PSU is 24V.
thd 0.08-0.12% RCA out
9.8mA through R4 (47R)
Sounds wonderful with 32ohm headphones.
a nice ACP+ - build! And you have used the sommercable - SC ALBEDO. I like this cable a lot and
use it myself. Pretty low capacitance per meter...
Cheers
Dirk
Haha, accept begging for another link?Thanks 🙂
Yes, the Albedo cable is my standard shielded cable and it’s cheap. I bought extra when I made my interconnects. I replaced expensive ones with it.

With ACP+ drivning F4 I got ~85dB in the room is no joke to me. Depends on how sensitive speaker You have of course.
Speakers in use?With ACP+ drivning F4 I got ~85dB in the room is no joke to me. Depends on how sensitive speaker You have of course.
When i tested twin ACA in extended filtered parallel:
Plus ACP+ in that combo, prooved to be a little to good of a combo.
Do not double plus.
So chill. 🙂🔥
Plus ACP+ in that combo, prooved to be a little to good of a combo.
Do not double plus.
So chill. 🙂🔥
Can someone recommend an easy ground loop breaker for this unit? I built one into a chassis and having some low level hum. Same problem on my Korg B1 in the same chassis.
Could I attach a .47uf film cap to ground just like the Whammy?
I currently don’t have a spare CL-60 on me.
Could I attach a .47uf film cap to ground just like the Whammy?
I currently don’t have a spare CL-60 on me.
You could use a 10R resistor (2W) as connection between audio ground and chassis, paralleled with a 25A or 35A rectifier bridge. You then can parallel both with a 100 nF film cap.
Just for testing purposes - use the 10R resistor only.
As a permanent solution, it is not safe because it cannot channel enough current to ground to trip the breaker in case of a fault. That's what the rectifier bridge is for.
Best regards, Claas
Just for testing purposes - use the 10R resistor only.
As a permanent solution, it is not safe because it cannot channel enough current to ground to trip the breaker in case of a fault. That's what the rectifier bridge is for.
Best regards, Claas
Removed chassis anodization @ the four spacer screw holes/ensured conductivity between all panels in the chassis, also between pot bolt and chassis?
what PSU?
Can the hum have origin from other equip nearby / sure it the preamps are the culprits?
nice build btw 🙂 Nothing looks amiss.
Regards,
Andy
no mains present, case grounded to audio GND through pcb screws, no need and no place for NTC thingie ..... that being related for gadgets having mains based PSU in box, and safety GND
as Andy said - check are they all parts of case in connection (tighten all chassis screws)
as Andy said - check are they all parts of case in connection (tighten all chassis screws)
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