See what a construction spectacle!You and me friend. If you like JBL bass, they belong to the pro audio big 15" pro audio style (altec/jbl) and cannot be achieved with Satori drivers which are the danish home audio style drivers (scanspeak/sb/dynaudio/etc).
Not to say one is better than the other, they are just different though im biased toward the large ones 😀
You can still proceed to build the Sasandu and use suitable JBL 15" style woofer for sub bass crossed HIGH (2-300hz) to the Sasandu.
But the question is: Where to find the drivers?
Don’t make the mistake thinking the 2235 is that special. It’s not. And there are many designs with 15, even 18” low drivers. And one more thing: lousy low frequency reproduction isn’t the speaker’s fault that often. Rather blame the setup and the room.
Hello Friend! In your opinion which 15" speaker would be better than the 2235H? (what's the problem with them?) It can't require a lot of power because I have 100 and 200W amplifiers only. 🙁Don’t make the mistake thinking the 2235 is that special. It’s not. And there are many designs with 15, even 18” low drivers. And one more thing: lousy low frequency reproduction isn’t the speaker’s fault that often. Rather blame the setup and the room.
Drivers like the BMS15N840, FaitalPro 15XL1400 or B&C 15SW100 have more (linear) Vd. And units from brands like PHL, Beyma, 18Sound, RCF, LaVoce or Oberton beat the venerable 2235H on that point too. It is fine, but certainly not that special, with moderate low frequency max SPL performance.
From a LF extension POV, a lot of drivers mentioned would benefit from some correction, be it LT shelving, old fashioned B6 alignment or other. Drivers like this are optimised for 40Hz and up. Active correction needs some amp power too. But since you are not out for high SPL, a clean 200W would easily be enough. And if you don't like the idea of active correction, you could always make the cone heavier.
From a LF extension POV, a lot of drivers mentioned would benefit from some correction, be it LT shelving, old fashioned B6 alignment or other. Drivers like this are optimised for 40Hz and up. Active correction needs some amp power too. But since you are not out for high SPL, a clean 200W would easily be enough. And if you don't like the idea of active correction, you could always make the cone heavier.
The review here...Hello Friend! In your opinion which 15" speaker would be better than the 2235H? (what's the problem with them?) It can't require a lot of power because I have 100 and 200W amplifiers only. 🙁
https://josephcrowe.com/blogs/news/jbl-2265g-1-versus-rcf-l15-554k...says this JBL woofer is has low intermodulation distortion (thus capable)...
https://reconingspeakers.com/?s=2265&post_type=product... and you can reference the cabinet design in its actual JBL product
https://jblpro.com/products/vrx915s
Suggested cabinets mentioned here
https://www.parts-express.com/JBL-2265HPL-338343-003X-15-Neo-Woofer-294-452
An even better but harder to obtain woofer is this one meant for home audio use
https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/jbl-2216nd-woofer-for-jbl-m2-5041785/There's VERY MANY discussions on DIYing JBL M2 you can research yourself.
Why not build the M2 then? Don't reccomend, it works only with digital crossover and i think Sasandu with the M2 bass is a significantly better option. More detailed, less harsh.
Yes 200w is enough.
Hello Friend! I believe that to listen to music in a 30² room I don't need more than 93db, I could be wrong.It would be wise if you would specify the desired SPL in room at any cutoff frequency. 100dB SPL at 30Hz isn't that hard to achieve, even with 8" woofers. 120dB SPL is somewhat more complicated.
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It seems none of them allow a speaker with f3 25Hz, at worst 28HzDrivers like the BMS15N840, FaitalPro 15XL1400 or B&C 15SW100 have more (linear) Vd. And units from brands like PHL, Beyma, 18Sound, RCF, LaVoce or Oberton beat the venerable 2235H on that point too. It is fine, but certainly not that special, with moderate low frequency max SPL performance.
From a LF extension POV, a lot of drivers mentioned would benefit from some correction, be it LT shelving, old fashioned B6 alignment or other. Drivers like this are optimised for 40Hz and up. Active correction needs some amp power too. But since you are not out for high SPL, a clean 200W would easily be enough. And if you don't like the idea of active correction, you could always make the cone heavier.
M 2ct? You need to acquire focus. Any decent 6"/1" 2 way can do 30Hz at 91 dB. Have a look at equal loudness contour plots and decide if 91dB is enough, not taking room response into account, that is. So a big 4 way seems a bit of an overshoot to me and a room of 30sqm too small for such a speaker.
Why do you think that is important? And I've given the solutions already.It seems none of them allow a speaker with f3 25Hz, at worst 28Hz
Very not important. Don't follow numbers when you cant measure to understand how it relates to what you heardIt seems none of them allow a speaker with f3 25Hz, at worst 28Hz
I know it's important because it's nice to hear on $1000 headphones. Even if you can't hear it below 20Hz you can feel it, I'm fascinated by it.Why do you think that is important? And I've given the solutions already.
Maybe I didn't fully understand the solution.
I understand very little about the subject comparing myself to you, I respect you and I appreciate you helping me. However I read on troelsgravesen that an 8" speaker playing at 30Hz will never sound as good as an 18" speaker even though they both have the same SPL. Numbers are sometimes just numbers.M 2ct? You need to acquire focus. Any decent 6"/1" 2 way can do 30Hz at 91 dB. Have a look at equal loudness contour plots and decide if 91dB is enough, not taking room response into account, that is. So a big 4 way seems a bit of an overshoot to me and a room of 30sqm too small for such a speaker.
The problem is that I committed the crime of listening to what is good and now I have difficulties in accepting the intermediary even with my tight budget. I don't intend to spend more than 4000$ in a step-up and up-grade process.
I am in an apartment, I will leave here in 2 years, I will have the opportunity to build a small house, but with a room of 48m²M 2ct? You need to acquire focus. Any decent 6"/1" 2 way can do 30Hz at 91 dB. Have a look at equal loudness contour plots and decide if 91dB is enough, not taking room response into account, that is. So a big 4 way seems a bit of an overshoot to me and a room of 30sqm too small for such a speaker.
🟢 On this occasion I won't be able to redo my speakers, I'm giving up some priorities to make this dream come true, I'm 57 years old, I know I won't be able to spend more money on sound.
Forgive me, you're too advanced for me, I'm just an enthusiast, I can't interpret this graph, it didn't tell me anything. 😢M 2ct? You need to acquire focus. Any decent 6"/1" 2 way can do 30Hz at 91 dB. Have a look at equal loudness contour plots and decide if 91dB is enough, not taking room response into account, that is. So a big 4 way seems a bit of an overshoot to me and a room of 30sqm too small for such a speaker.
You may find these threads for jbl-esque diy efforts more closely what you seek
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/jbl-m2-for-the-poors.247050/page-48#post-6956467
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/asathor-a-jbl-4367-clone.367215/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/jbl-m2-for-the-poors.247050/page-48#post-6956467
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/asathor-a-jbl-4367-clone.367215/
Heck, if this is your last shot for a decade or so, go for a multi sub-assisted set of good mains. Mains have to do about 100Hz full level properly, so a 6"/1"system would do. A good set-up multi sub system plays away about all big main speakers, because of the ingenious handling of room acoustics. I think with some clever picks your budget will be enough. You might need someone to help you out though.
They're just cloning a design that can be bettered. I own lots of older JBL drivers and I wouldn't bother building those.See what a construction spectacle!
But the question is: Where to find the drivers?
My current room is just under 20m2 and I would not consider such a design too large. The current mains are 4 way with a pair of TD15S per channel and subs below them.So a big 4 way seems a bit of an overshoot to me and a room of 30sqm too small for such a speaker.
I have heard the JBL blue series with Mcintosh and they was epic! even the midbass feldt in the chest, but remember, they are very efficient and the top tweeter is in another ball park than a soft dome. They sounded more complete than the L300 for example but they on the other hand is cooler looking 😎 I think the 4way blue series work best at a distance of 4m at least.
I tried to translate your text into my language, but it got confusing, sorry. If you are referring to a diy and can post a link I would appreciate it. 🙁I have heard the JBL blue series with Mcintosh and they was epic! even the midbass feldt in the chest, but remember, they are very efficient and the top tweeter is in another ball park than a soft dome. They sounded more complete than the L300 for example but they on the other hand is cooler looking 😎 I think the 4way blue series work best at a distance of 4m at least.
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