That would work... or WO24P (x2) + MR16P + SB26ADC. The pair of 9" woofers will enable an easy baffle step compensation, and keep the sensitivity up around 90 dB/2.83V.
The suggestion for the Sasandu kit in post #16 is a good way forward. A nice subwoofer (or pair of subwoofers) can be added later if the bass extension is not satisfactory. Most 4-way speakers are best understood as 3-ways with an added sub.
j.
The suggestion for the Sasandu kit in post #16 is a good way forward. A nice subwoofer (or pair of subwoofers) can be added later if the bass extension is not satisfactory. Most 4-way speakers are best understood as 3-ways with an added sub.
j.
Its very easy to add bass to an existing design, see this example.
http://meniscus.lightningbasehosted...he-Kairos-and-Continuum-Three-Way-Writeup.pdf
I'd personally recommend the SB34NRXL instead of WO24.
I believe that at the end of this discussion, the chance of me making the wrong decision is about 60%, but I'll keep trying.
Audio is by far the most complex thing I've ever researched.
I'm classical, I listen to classic rock, orchestrated, lots of guitar, cello, blues, female and male vocals, I'm not given to anything modern like electronic music, no popular music.
Points that generate doubts in my head:
*I don't admit that a speaker doesn't reproduce 25Hz (but it seems that this compromises the sensitivity and performance of the other frequencies in the same driver)
*To get around this I'm thinking of having a SB34NRX75 or WO24P to run from 25Hz to 200Hz, so I would have a second woofer to handle 200Hz to 600Hz (hypothetical cutoff) a midrange and a tweeter in sequence.
And why all this? "I've read in design articles that the sealed bass is more natural and pleasant to hear.
A limitation of the WO24P is that we don't have it in 4ohms
What do you think if I buy the Sasandu and eliminate the wind port of the 2 X SATORI MW19P-8 and put a filter limiting it to go down to 200Hz? So I would build a cabinet for the SB34NRX75.
I have often been asked to employ a digital crossover, something I have not had contact with and fear for the outcome.
I've been reading all the text of the project, the Fs of this speaker is 40Hz, I would like a speaker that speaks at least 25Hz.
They have some 4 way projects that blow my budget.
I really liked the passive high pass filter solution at 20Hz
I would port it as per the design, when you cross at 200hz to the SB34NRXL, the port wont be in use at all and it works like sealed.
This will let you also run the sasadu ported full range and the 4th way to be placed elsewhere in the room to fix room bass problems instead of digital crossovers.
When you say you want 25hz at what cut off is that 3, 6, or 10dB and also is that anechoic or in-room. -6dB in-room is achievable with anechoic at 40hz at -3dB.
If you want 25hz at -3dB anechoic that is serious subwoofer territory with a large driver (15” plus) and a large Xmax in a very big box and lots of power (500w+).
I couldn't understand, could you expand this subject further?
When I see a speaker saying it has f3 of 35Hz they don't specify these conditions if they are anechoic or not
F3 = 3dB down on the nominal sensitivity e.g. if the sensitivity is 89dB/W/m then F3 is where the frequency curve crosses 86dB when fed by 1W. (F6- 6dB down, F10 = 10dB down)
The gradient of the curve as the frequency reduces is dependent on the box design, sealed fall off slower, passive radiator quicker and bass reflex line even quicker.
As for anechoic or in-room this is down to you to model as part of your design process and depends on the box alignment/size (sealed / PR / BR) and the drivers being used and also the acoustics of your room and placement of the speakers within that room. If you place the speakers in the right position within your room you can get upto 6dB room enforcement therefore allowing a higher F3 for a lower in room response F3. Typically the closer to the wall behind the speaker and the nearer the corners then the more re-enforcement you get.
Therefore it is possible to design for an anechoic F3 of 35hz and when you put it in a room then it could have an F3 of 25hz.
Hi Silvio
Another vote for using an existing design - these are commonly used drivers with several existing well regarded designs.
Ssanadu would seem the obvious choice and likely bass will be more than adequate, but if not many would advocate for subbass coming from atleast 2 subwoofers seperate from your towers.
The satori 9 isn't a subwoofer.
If bass is what you are looking for then use a sub driver, however it will go plenty low for most.
If using up to a few hundred HZ (maybe in the 250-500 range) you should probably have picked a different driver. Assuming you do use it to a few hundred hz, you only need 1 driver between that and the tweeter (ie 3 way, not 4 way).
If you want to use the 9 for bass I think there are some satori 951 or 961 3 way designs on Polish forums, possibly troels website and Javad Shadzi did one with Jeff Bagby called 'jintani' on his Facebook group. Add sub if you really think necessary when you've built them.
If its the designing process you are interested in then go for it! If you haven't done so previously you will find plenty of interesting stuff to learn and will need a mic to take alot of measurements along the way. I'd suggest using the same drivers as one of the other designs (note some drivers have 4 and 8 ohm versions) so that just incase you don't achieve your desired outcome you could build a known design without significant additional expense.
Hope you enjoy whichever way you choose to go.
Another vote for using an existing design - these are commonly used drivers with several existing well regarded designs.
Ssanadu would seem the obvious choice and likely bass will be more than adequate, but if not many would advocate for subbass coming from atleast 2 subwoofers seperate from your towers.
The satori 9 isn't a subwoofer.
If bass is what you are looking for then use a sub driver, however it will go plenty low for most.
If using up to a few hundred HZ (maybe in the 250-500 range) you should probably have picked a different driver. Assuming you do use it to a few hundred hz, you only need 1 driver between that and the tweeter (ie 3 way, not 4 way).
If you want to use the 9 for bass I think there are some satori 951 or 961 3 way designs on Polish forums, possibly troels website and Javad Shadzi did one with Jeff Bagby called 'jintani' on his Facebook group. Add sub if you really think necessary when you've built them.
If its the designing process you are interested in then go for it! If you haven't done so previously you will find plenty of interesting stuff to learn and will need a mic to take alot of measurements along the way. I'd suggest using the same drivers as one of the other designs (note some drivers have 4 and 8 ohm versions) so that just incase you don't achieve your desired outcome you could build a known design without significant additional expense.
Hope you enjoy whichever way you choose to go.
It would be wise if you would specify the desired SPL in room at any cutoff frequency. 100dB SPL at 30Hz isn't that hard to achieve, even with 8" woofers. 120dB SPL is somewhat more complicated.
Thanks friend for helping me!
But with regards to bass, this is a touchy subject. The term subwoofer scares me when I think about making great musical works (art) I can't stand extremely resonant bass that seems to be buzzing or being blown, I need a natural bass that translates what really happened in a symphony orchestra.
I've been really enjoying the vintage JBL basses 15" and 18", they're what I'd really like to have, but they're a fortune.
Last edited:
I'll be honest with you, I don't know how much I need SPL, I don't have that experience and measuring devices, I'll have to buy it little by little if I want to delve into this segment.
I just want a speaker that appeals to anyone with a good ear and good taste in music, but this speaker cannot be limited to low frequencies or complemented by a subwoofer, a woofer should do the job even if you need to put in an 18" " with a cabinet the size of a refrigerator.
That kind of bass I'm looking for
Do not fear the word "subwoofer". It simply means a bass speaker that is designed and optimized for the range from ~ 120 Hz down to the limits of the driver/cabinet... but typically most subwoofers extend down to at least 30 Hz. Good subwoofers sound excellent with classical music, acoustic music, live recordings, etc. If it sounds boomy, buzzy, or unnatural, it is not well integrated, or poorly designed, or poorly built.
Attached is a picture of my woofer cabinet. It is an SB34NRX75 in a 70 liter cabinet. There are two cabinets, left and right. It is an active system sealed box system. It uses a bass equalization technique called Linkwitz Transform, and I have bass extension of -3dB at 30 Hz, and -10 dB at 19 Hz. I currently cross over to the main system at 200 Hz, so technically, this is not a "subwoofer", but more of a "woofer".
j.
Attached is a picture of my woofer cabinet. It is an SB34NRX75 in a 70 liter cabinet. There are two cabinets, left and right. It is an active system sealed box system. It uses a bass equalization technique called Linkwitz Transform, and I have bass extension of -3dB at 30 Hz, and -10 dB at 19 Hz. I currently cross over to the main system at 200 Hz, so technically, this is not a "subwoofer", but more of a "woofer".
j.
Attachments
You and me friend. If you like JBL bass, they belong to the pro audio big 15" pro audio style (altec/jbl) and cannot be achieved with Satori drivers which are the danish home audio style drivers (scanspeak/sb/dynaudio/etc).
Not to say one is better than the other, they are just different though im biased toward the large ones 😀
You can still proceed to build the Sasandu and use suitable JBL 15" style woofer for sub bass crossed HIGH (2-300hz) to the Sasandu.
If someone presents me with a DIY project JBL 15", something like the JBL 2235H and that can be done, I will certainly abandon the idea of making these satori towers.
🟢 My biggest difficulty would be how to buy a JBL 15", I say this because of the distance, I'm in Brazil.
Last edited:
have you decided if your system will be active crossover or passive crossover?