It should be lighting up now then. If there really is power applied to those 4.7k resistors.
Use the volt meter to look for 9V across those resistors.
If there is 9V the LED should be lighting up. It would be very very rare for that LED to fail. If there is no 9V there then check the leads/clip leads. It would not be the first time something stopped working because of a bad lead. [I have had bad clip leads and also bad 9V battery snaps. Most of my clip leads are now rebuilt myself with much better wire and soldered because of this.]
If the LED is not lighting my bet is that there is no 9V.
Last edited:
Bloody hell, I can't get the solder to stick to the wire and the resistor. It keeps balling up and rolling off. Put iron on 450 degrees. I'm going to have to come back to this later. The wife is now voicing her disapproval at the amount of time I'm spending in the shed.
What type and brand of solder and where did you purchase it?
I suggest that you don't turn the iron to unreasonable temperatures. Set it to the right temperature. If it is not soldering a little wire and a little 1/4W resistor then find out what is wrong with the solder or what is wrong with what is being soldered.
I suggest that you don't turn the iron to unreasonable temperatures. Set it to the right temperature. If it is not soldering a little wire and a little 1/4W resistor then find out what is wrong with the solder or what is wrong with what is being soldered.
I have not had good luck with Ebay/AliExpress/etc "brands" of lead free solder. (Your green roll of solder.)
I suggest a reputable name brand solder.
For now a new tip, the right temperature and the blue roll of solder (tin-lead) should solder wires and resistors without problems.
I suggest a reputable name brand solder.
For now a new tip, the right temperature and the blue roll of solder (tin-lead) should solder wires and resistors without problems.
I've never had the pleasure of using leaded solder. Don't think you can buy it anymore? But the green roll was £12. I thought that expensive so would be good stuff.
The "online sources"/usual suspects sell solder under many "brand names". After trying a couple different brands I switched back to Kester and other real brands.
Your blue roll looks like Tin-Lead. It says 63% tin which would suggest it is 37% lead. (Right?)
Your blue roll looks like Tin-Lead. It says 63% tin which would suggest it is 37% lead. (Right?)
Last edited:
Many hobbyists start with online purchases from Amazon/Ebay/AliExpress/other usual suspects and then a long and slow learning process starts about fake transistors, caps, op-amps, regulators, poor quality solder, poor quality tools, bad PCB layouts, bad design kits, etc...
Yeah the blue one may well be. Not used it yet. Maybe worth a try. I'm on a very tight budget at the moment. So these will have yo do for now.
Get the companion book that goes with it
The Art of Electronics Student Manual: Amazon.co.uk: Hayes, Thomas C.: 9780521377096: Books
Post#6
These 2134 chips don't look authentic to me .
Mine(post #51) are 8-12 years old, cant remember for sure .
Ahhh, never knew that this was available. I'll order it up. Maybe easier to get to grips with.
Yeah, defiantly fakes. I have a lot by the sounds of it. Was of money. I'll be saving up to grab a few more off the well known vendors.
I've left this now, I tried all that Mooly and mike advised.with nothing showing power/voltage wise (I'm going to come back to it). Im going to have ago at putting my own together on prep board, if I can get it to work. Then try my hand at kicad and get a few PCBs done. I've now got a nice basket at mouser with, what I'm hoping will be the genuine opamps. I'm stuck on the type of capacitor's to use. All mine are cheap eBay/amazon buys.
I'm looking now at audio caps, but the choice and costs are varied.
I'm looking now at audio caps, but the choice and costs are varied.