This site is incredibly helpful and thanks to all but especially PaulInWa and IAIMH -- you guys are over-the-top helpful.
Have been using Paul's BoM and Antek recco for the AN-5218 which is 5.6" D X 2.9" H. Is ordered and should have it this week.
All of the parts are bundled in DigiKey and ready to go but thought I would get confirmation about the Nichicon LGY1H153MELC50 Capacitor (10 of these). Any pluses or minuses here would be considered.
The boards are also ordered from DIY but will not arrive until later this week. Was planning on snapping off the diode rectifier section which leaves a smaller footprint. Paul recommends a BRIDGE RECT 1PHASE 400V 35A GBPC and am not sure where this goes.
At this time need to plan for the interconnect between the PSU and the M2X boxes. Will this be 2X2=4 wires? Do any of you here have favored plugs? Need this dimension to provide to HiFi2000 should it be a custom backplate need.
As regards additions am interested in both switching daughterboards, as hinted at in 4880 above, and in adding a CLC later on. Am thinking the CLC could be added to either box, right? So a box large enough for the M2X 10" pcbs will have plenty of empty room in the middle for this as well as for the switching daughterboards (thinking, say, a max of 3-4 of these).
Will work through more specifics to IAIMH's superb post and follow up later this morning.
Thanks, guys!
Have been using Paul's BoM and Antek recco for the AN-5218 which is 5.6" D X 2.9" H. Is ordered and should have it this week.
All of the parts are bundled in DigiKey and ready to go but thought I would get confirmation about the Nichicon LGY1H153MELC50 Capacitor (10 of these). Any pluses or minuses here would be considered.
The boards are also ordered from DIY but will not arrive until later this week. Was planning on snapping off the diode rectifier section which leaves a smaller footprint. Paul recommends a BRIDGE RECT 1PHASE 400V 35A GBPC and am not sure where this goes.
At this time need to plan for the interconnect between the PSU and the M2X boxes. Will this be 2X2=4 wires? Do any of you here have favored plugs? Need this dimension to provide to HiFi2000 should it be a custom backplate need.
As regards additions am interested in both switching daughterboards, as hinted at in 4880 above, and in adding a CLC later on. Am thinking the CLC could be added to either box, right? So a box large enough for the M2X 10" pcbs will have plenty of empty room in the middle for this as well as for the switching daughterboards (thinking, say, a max of 3-4 of these).
Will work through more specifics to IAIMH's superb post and follow up later this morning.
Thanks, guys!
While the standard recommendation for the bridge rectifier is a GBPC series, I do not use or recommend these except as ground isolation devices. They drop too much voltage from the secondaries of your power transformer, and get warm in the process.
What I recommend instead is the Vishay 26MB40A bridge rectifier. These are typically bolted directly to the baseplate of the chassis. No insulation is necessary, but some thermal grease can help.
Or, if you are using the store PSU boards, the MUR3020 series. Some CRCRC boards can accept the inline bridge rectifiers, where I will recommend the LVB2560.
What I recommend instead is the Vishay 26MB40A bridge rectifier. These are typically bolted directly to the baseplate of the chassis. No insulation is necessary, but some thermal grease can help.
Or, if you are using the store PSU boards, the MUR3020 series. Some CRCRC boards can accept the inline bridge rectifiers, where I will recommend the LVB2560.
TA: Thanks. Yes, am using the DIY store pcb and, unfortunately the Vishay bridges are out of stock at both DigiKey and Mouser. The MUR3020's are available but will require a bit more space and heatsink/pcb attention. Any other bridge reciifiers that might be in-stock and avoid the voltage drop issue?
I did The mod with 37k and 20k pot and its working as it should.
While I was starting upp there came smoke from The IPS board and There was a hole on my opa1611,could it have benen oschillating?
The order one is wotking just fine.
Last edited:
The other bridge rectifiers that I have used are the VBE60-06A. They look like massive overkill (because they are), but work well even for lower amp bias current applications. Again, they are already electrically isolated, but can benefit from some thermal grease.
The synchronous rectifiers that have been showing up here are also a good option, and are what I currently have installed in my M2x. They are even more work than the MUR3020, as they are constructed on their own boards, which you need to source from the Group Buys forum if you can.
The synchronous rectifiers that have been showing up here are also a good option, and are what I currently have installed in my M2x. They are even more work than the MUR3020, as they are constructed on their own boards, which you need to source from the Group Buys forum if you can.
Last edited:
You may look after Prasis stuff, he is deep into PSU-stuff and has provided us some fascinating little helpers. (Can’t tell you much more cause I haven’t used them and his jigs are quite ingenious…)
Edit: Just fell over the URL: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/336572-lt4320-based-active-rectifier.html#post5758881 but I believe he has more things than that…
Last edited:
First off, thanks to MJ (Mark Johnson) for the M2X experience.
So grateful for all his contributions here in diy audio!
Too many post I need to read to get updated on what's going on here in the M2X discussion thread but let's see....
1.) Same experienced here. From Ishikawa to Cedarburg, no change in offset. All the rest, minimal (about +-50mV or less) adjustment. I run the amp to about an hour before fine tuning the offset as close to 0 as possible.
2.) In my case, I have turn OFF thump (not turn ON), on the following in order of loudness (scale of 1-5 with 5 as the strongest): IPS6 (5), Cedarburg (4), and IPS7 (1). No thump (ON or OFF) for the other 6 cards.
Cards:
IPS7 is best for me (Cedarburg is good but I hate the loudest thump sound), and then the Norwood. I like Austin and Tucson too. Ishikawa is fun especially if you have the ability to adjust H2 (with sound card and REW for example).
Refrained from posting here for a while but I am still a very happy camper with the M2X! I am using mine driven by B3 FE preamp (I know, I know, not necessary because of the high gain) which I also use for the F4.
I have the BA2018 and the ACP+, but I prefer the BA3-FE for linestage duty as after I dialed it in with the correct H2/H3, it is a special preamp (hint: copied ACP+ H2/H3 profile, then adjust from there). I cannot remember the last time I fired up my Type 26 (transformer coupled, Coleman regs, K&K shunt regs, DACT attenuator etc.) or my Type 01A (with Coleman Regs, Ale M. gyrator boards, Salas shunt regs, Muses volume, etc.) preamps anymore.
Enjoy all!
So grateful for all his contributions here in diy audio!
Too many post I need to read to get updated on what's going on here in the M2X discussion thread but let's see....
1.) Same experienced here. From Ishikawa to Cedarburg, no change in offset. All the rest, minimal (about +-50mV or less) adjustment. I run the amp to about an hour before fine tuning the offset as close to 0 as possible.
2.) In my case, I have turn OFF thump (not turn ON), on the following in order of loudness (scale of 1-5 with 5 as the strongest): IPS6 (5), Cedarburg (4), and IPS7 (1). No thump (ON or OFF) for the other 6 cards.
Cards:
IPS7 is best for me (Cedarburg is good but I hate the loudest thump sound), and then the Norwood. I like Austin and Tucson too. Ishikawa is fun especially if you have the ability to adjust H2 (with sound card and REW for example).
Refrained from posting here for a while but I am still a very happy camper with the M2X! I am using mine driven by B3 FE preamp (I know, I know, not necessary because of the high gain) which I also use for the F4.
I have the BA2018 and the ACP+, but I prefer the BA3-FE for linestage duty as after I dialed it in with the correct H2/H3, it is a special preamp (hint: copied ACP+ H2/H3 profile, then adjust from there). I cannot remember the last time I fired up my Type 26 (transformer coupled, Coleman regs, K&K shunt regs, DACT attenuator etc.) or my Type 01A (with Coleman Regs, Ale M. gyrator boards, Salas shunt regs, Muses volume, etc.) preamps anymore.
Enjoy all!
Last edited:
Thanks Amandarae for the response to my question. Although I did not mention it, I also get the turn off thump with the Cedarburg and Tuscon cards. Not there on the Ishikawa. You've got me considering the IPS7 card as my next build, and also pondering the Tuscon with the Burson Audio V6 Classic. I love the ease that the D-Sub connectors offer when switching boards. Thanks, Kurt
Welcome Kurt!
Tucson sounds great too. I use OPA1611 on mine and it's quiet and no turn On or turn Off thump.
Clean the boards with isopropyl alcohol to ensure free of solder flux residue. I had a thump issue with one channel of the Mountain View cards and after cleaning the board thoroughly, it disappeared. As for the Cedarburg and IPS6, I would probably use a swimming pool of isopropyl cleaning the boards and it would not matter.
Another M2X lives. I built one back in late 2019 in a Krell donor chassis and lent it immediately to a good friend who had damaged his tube amps. The good judge liked it so much he refused to return it until I built one for him - His Worship cited something about ‘possession being 9/10th…’.
Finally all the parts arrived, long delayed by pestilential shipping woes, and I have retaken possession of my M2X upon handing this one over.
Thanks once again to all those who make this possible - The One Wizard for his generosity to us acolytes and Mark, Jim and all who lend their time and expertise to this forum. A tip of the hat once again to you, Mark, for your amazingly kind offer back in 2019 - I still raise a glass in memory. Often.
Finally all the parts arrived, long delayed by pestilential shipping woes, and I have retaken possession of my M2X upon handing this one over.
Thanks once again to all those who make this possible - The One Wizard for his generosity to us acolytes and Mark, Jim and all who lend their time and expertise to this forum. A tip of the hat once again to you, Mark, for your amazingly kind offer back in 2019 - I still raise a glass in memory. Often.
Attachments
Great looking build, Derek! Congratulations on your success.
If you decide to experiment with several daughter cards, I think you'll really have fun with that. Pictured below are a few items that may help you enjoy your M2x even more. Clockwise from top right:
_
If you decide to experiment with several daughter cards, I think you'll really have fun with that. Pictured below are a few items that may help you enjoy your M2x even more. Clockwise from top right:
- Tucson
- Cedarburg
- IPS6
- Norwood
- Mountain View
- Austin
- Relaxation accelerator
_
Attachments
Thanks, Mark. Great RA board!! If you decide to experiment with several sipping rums and have access to Plantation their Barbados 7-year old is stellar. They source from all over the world and bottle - as you probably know - and the Bajan 7-year old was from the new rockstar of rum distillers - Foursquare.
Yes, I tried Mountain View (as you can tell from the image) and have Ishikawa as well as Tucson with a number of opamps to try. Also, thanks to Ryssen, have IPS6 and 7 as well as Cedarburg boards. Waiting on slow boat from Digikey for the parts to stuff those and try. As I now actually have my M2X back I'll certainly be trying the different boards.
Yes, I tried Mountain View (as you can tell from the image) and have Ishikawa as well as Tucson with a number of opamps to try. Also, thanks to Ryssen, have IPS6 and 7 as well as Cedarburg boards. Waiting on slow boat from Digikey for the parts to stuff those and try. As I now actually have my M2X back I'll certainly be trying the different boards.
Hi,
It’s been 4 weeks since I converted my Aleph J monoblocks into M2X. Big hanks to Mark Johnson, 6L6 and Nelson Pass for this outstanding amplifier.
First impression after powering M2X with Tuscson boards & Wayne's BA 2018 was WOW. I did not expect that this amp can be so much better than Aleph J (do not get me wrong, I still think that Aleph J is a very good amp). A soundstage is huge a high, very sweet sound and many micro sounds/details that are very nicely presented and easy to hear.
I connected the Korg NuTube B1 instead of Wayne's linestage. For my setup and taste, it is a perfect combination.
I listened to this setup for 3 weeks with great joy and pleasure until components for Cedarburg arrived. Another surprise. The sound is more coherent, instruments are better defined and positioned and my feeling is that the bass details are more accentuate with the Cedarburg. Beautiful sound!
Mountain View & Austin to be tested soon.
Few pics attached.
Cheers and enjoy the music!
Jacek
It’s been 4 weeks since I converted my Aleph J monoblocks into M2X. Big hanks to Mark Johnson, 6L6 and Nelson Pass for this outstanding amplifier.
First impression after powering M2X with Tuscson boards & Wayne's BA 2018 was WOW. I did not expect that this amp can be so much better than Aleph J (do not get me wrong, I still think that Aleph J is a very good amp). A soundstage is huge a high, very sweet sound and many micro sounds/details that are very nicely presented and easy to hear.
I connected the Korg NuTube B1 instead of Wayne's linestage. For my setup and taste, it is a perfect combination.
I listened to this setup for 3 weeks with great joy and pleasure until components for Cedarburg arrived. Another surprise. The sound is more coherent, instruments are better defined and positioned and my feeling is that the bass details are more accentuate with the Cedarburg. Beautiful sound!
Mountain View & Austin to be tested soon.
Few pics attached.
Cheers and enjoy the music!
Jacek
Attachments
