^ I thought about that one myself, seems to me it would be difficult to find another 10" woofer/midbass driver designed to roll off at the high end of its BW without the need for a crossover on the woofer (midbass) driver as is the case with the 10" Seas driver.
Much easier to implement an alternative tweeter HF drive unit than to find an alternate woofer/midbass unit.
Curious to hear p10 Dave's answer.
FWIW, I was looking at the 91.5dB Karteasian acoustic WOM 250_vHE Woofer Wom250_vHE | .Kartesian as a possible higher efficiency alternative, IDK, I think the HF roll-off has a lot of break up mode peaks and dips. Perhaps someone here can run simms from the given specs?
Much easier to implement an alternative tweeter HF drive unit than to find an alternate woofer/midbass unit.
Curious to hear p10 Dave's answer.
FWIW, I was looking at the 91.5dB Karteasian acoustic WOM 250_vHE Woofer Wom250_vHE | .Kartesian as a possible higher efficiency alternative, IDK, I think the HF roll-off has a lot of break up mode peaks and dips. Perhaps someone here can run simms from the given specs?
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Hello... the claimed Devore 10" two way efficiency - sensitivity is total horse s**t! Run the numbers! Real efficiency is around 89.7 DBW at one meter from 60 - 15KHz. Some elevated mid range that may measure 91 or so dbw. Seems the NY audiophile media is in love with this speaker.. and it is a good one, but some how they feel the need to grossly exagerate the true efficiency. SAD! So tired of this kind of this needless crap! Yes, I have auditioned this speaker several times. RMAF, private owners and so on. Again, it is a very good speaker. So, why lie?
The speaker/box will have the sensitivity of the A26 less any BSC you might add (i rarely need it).
SEAS says A26 is 89 dB. If you want 94-95 you will need to use 2 woofers.
What do you mean by that?
dave
I was thinking of finding a more efficient woofer/tweeter combination but leave it with the current configuration, if possible.
I looked at this problem before because I got interested in the audionote sound.
I think there are things you need to be clear about for your quest. Are you looking for high efficiency because you have a 2W SET or because you want the high efficiency sound.
The high efficiency sound woofer is pretty difficult to get, what you are looking for is a speaker with loose suspension, very large magnet or plenty of neos and a large cone. Not many of them.
The compromise is only pro woofers which tend to have very high efficiency or full range drivers.
You might find this article interesting. There is a driver designed by him.
High Efficiency Speakers
On a different note, do consider a bass reflex as well. It may have a less controlled bass but at least there is some.
In the meantime have fun with the SEAS build.
Oon.
I think there are things you need to be clear about for your quest. Are you looking for high efficiency because you have a 2W SET or because you want the high efficiency sound.
The high efficiency sound woofer is pretty difficult to get, what you are looking for is a speaker with loose suspension, very large magnet or plenty of neos and a large cone. Not many of them.
The compromise is only pro woofers which tend to have very high efficiency or full range drivers.
You might find this article interesting. There is a driver designed by him.
High Efficiency Speakers
On a different note, do consider a bass reflex as well. It may have a less controlled bass but at least there is some.
In the meantime have fun with the SEAS build.
Oon.
You have +/- 92dB, why more!? Then it's a different project, not with the classic vintage woofer reborn.
Attachments
It'd be interesting if someone came up with a modern rendition of the Dynaco A-50 that had the pair of woofers in a larger aperiodic cabinet. I've never seen a real A-50 and have never heard of a re-creation
Hey quick question, I'm building the standard SEAS A26 kit with the 28L cabinet and I'm trying to figure out where internally to mount the crossover capacitor and resistor. since the side interior walls of the cabinets are now foam coated, the choices are the back inside wall near the binding post, or the front inside cabinet adjacent to the tweeter. Any opinions as to which is preferred, acoustically?
I'd mount them close to the binding posts and tie the cap/resistor in line with the tweeter wiring. You'll probably want to mess with the tweeter pad resistor to get the top end where you want it, so its easier to put it in line. Woofer is obviously direct wired, so just the two components in line with the tweeter.