Well, for me it is exactly the other way around, the better the system, the more annoying are the clicks and pops.
My system consists of high sensitivity speakers, PP tube amplifier, SS class D subwoofer and TT DD with cheap capsule.
I also have a CD player and I listen to music by streaming, but my vinyl collection is numerous and there are many works that are endearing to me, however, I hardly even listen to them because I have gotten used to the fact that there is only silence behind the instruments and / or voices. .
I await your verdict from a distance, what should I do?
My system consists of high sensitivity speakers, PP tube amplifier, SS class D subwoofer and TT DD with cheap capsule.
I also have a CD player and I listen to music by streaming, but my vinyl collection is numerous and there are many works that are endearing to me, however, I hardly even listen to them because I have gotten used to the fact that there is only silence behind the instruments and / or voices. .
I await your verdict from a distance, what should I do?
When clicks and pops are more in the foreground than the music, something with the player system should be changed. It is all about materials. How to choose a turntable with those materials that don't emphasize those unwanted clicks and pops.
My player system consists of a massive wood frame, a Garrard 301 which is heavily upgraded, a turntable platter made from aluminum and a mixture of cork/ rubber platter matt. The base of the tonearm is bronze. The tonearm is Ortofon and the pick up is Ortofon, too. With such a system, you will never be disturbed with that noise and even clicks and pops absolutely dissappear into the nowhere. I simply don't hear them, and my system has 99dB efficiency speakers. This is an ultra sensitive system, every small thing on the record is highly amplified, but no clicks and pops are audible. Nothing. Nada. Zero. I hardly can audition the noise of the LP itself, the microgroove noise. It just disappears.
Thats why I say, change your record player system and get rid of those disturbances.
With a cheap plastic player, the wrong platter matt and a low compliance pick up system, that may amplify evey click and pop, but not with a better system player. You will be astonished how good and undisturbed LP playing is possible.
Maybe you change for a cork/rubber platter mat first, or for another material which is antistatic. Rubber isn't anstistatic. OR your player isn't earthed good enough. Or try some dampers under it. But a plastic player or acrylic platter is always sensitive for letting unwanted clicks and pops hear as amplified as the music itself.
My player system consists of a massive wood frame, a Garrard 301 which is heavily upgraded, a turntable platter made from aluminum and a mixture of cork/ rubber platter matt. The base of the tonearm is bronze. The tonearm is Ortofon and the pick up is Ortofon, too. With such a system, you will never be disturbed with that noise and even clicks and pops absolutely dissappear into the nowhere. I simply don't hear them, and my system has 99dB efficiency speakers. This is an ultra sensitive system, every small thing on the record is highly amplified, but no clicks and pops are audible. Nothing. Nada. Zero. I hardly can audition the noise of the LP itself, the microgroove noise. It just disappears.
Thats why I say, change your record player system and get rid of those disturbances.
With a cheap plastic player, the wrong platter matt and a low compliance pick up system, that may amplify evey click and pop, but not with a better system player. You will be astonished how good and undisturbed LP playing is possible.
Maybe you change for a cork/rubber platter mat first, or for another material which is antistatic. Rubber isn't anstistatic. OR your player isn't earthed good enough. Or try some dampers under it. But a plastic player or acrylic platter is always sensitive for letting unwanted clicks and pops hear as amplified as the music itself.
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But a plastic player or acrylic platter is always sensitive for letting unwanted clicks and pops hear as amplified as the music itself.
No, my TT is not as bad as that .....
Do you have an MC capsule?
I have read that the famous Denon DL103 so used in radio studios and still in production (the 103R model) does not catch many clicks and pops
But I did not dare to change because it is a spherical pick and has a high tracking force, it also needs a high mass arm, and although the MS MA707 of my TT has the accessory to add weight, the specialists tell me that it is not enough .....
And I would also need a pre for MC !
Denon DL103 R with tonearm MicroSeiki MA-707, good match ?- Vinyl Engine
No, my TT is not as bad as that .....
Do you have an MC capsule?
I have read that the famous Denon DL103 so used in radio studios and still in production (the 103R model) does not catch many clicks and pops
But I did not dare to change because it is a spherical pick and has a high tracking force, it also needs a high mass arm, and although the MS MA707 of my TT has the accessory to add weight, the specialists tell me that it is not enough .....
And I would also need a pre for MC !
Denon DL103 R with tonearm MicroSeiki MA-707, good match ?- Vinyl Engine
The photomicrographs shown earlier in this thread have a lot of chromatic fringing that makes seeing things difficult. I have posted here long ago one made with a cheap USB microscope of the 300Hz tracking test from a CBS Labs test disk that has been played many times and has never been cleaned. The grooves are pristine looking. It is also interesting how they got the grooves to interlock (peak to valley on alternate rotations) to increase the lateral deviation.
That is your opinion and a valid one but some of us like tinkering around and we are NOT wrong, we just chose to do things our way.But beware of tinkering around the records with some special fluids etc. Thats for sure the wrong way.
When clicks and pops are more in the foreground than the music, something with the player system should be changed. It is all about materials. How to choose a turntable with those materials that don't emphasize those unwanted clicks and pops.
I hope this is a translation issue and you are not looking down on those of us without 1950s rumble rigs?
I hoped for making myself clear, that its about materials and their combination to have those unwanted noises in the back- or foreground.I hope this is a translation issue and you are not looking down on those of us without 1950s rumble rigs?
If you think that a Shindo 301 player system is an old rumble rig, you obviously have no clue about whats been done to such an old Garrard.
The platter bearing itself is way more advanced and overengineered than many modern bearings. Just the price for this piece is higher than many other complete player systems. I never auditioned any rumble, but all fine details a record has to offer.
Its all about the knowledge to let things shine or to have to deal with design flaws. With the age of the player system, it has nothing in common.
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So now you are just willy waving about how much you have spend on turntables and then falling back on 'my ears tell me all I need to know'.
“Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.”
― Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray
― Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray
Doesn't take a hi-end deck nor a mass-loaded deck to avoid clicks & pops. Just good old-fashioned clean LPs.
Maybe you've never heard the differences between platter mats and their ability to dampen such unwanted clicks and pops.Doesn't take a hi-end deck nor a mass-loaded deck to avoid clicks & pops. Just good old-fashioned clean LPs.
And obviously you've never had the chance to audition the differences in materials that have great impact on how those disturbing noises on the LP records can be lowered by choosing different platter materials or chassis materials. I know, not eveyone has the ability to make those comparisons.
But for me, a new record is all which is needed to hear troublefree music pressed on this vinyl. I don't have to clean a record five times after purchasing it new to have fun with it. And with 95% of my used bought records its even not necessary to clean them with a wet mixture. Just a carbon brush is mostly all I need and I'm done.
But for those plastic chassis players, those acrylic platter players and rubber mat users in combination with light tonearms and pick up systems, that every housefly can bring out of track, the situation is much different.
And for those situations I offered some opinions.
If you don't like them, well, I have some others.
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I agree with the previous poster. My experience is that you need the following for reducing the audability of pops:
- Platter mat. Rubber is not good. Cork or felt is OK.
- Correct vertical tracking angle of the stylus.
- Tube phono preamplifier
- If you use a MC cartridge, use a step-up transformer. Avoid transistor electronics.
- Platter mat. Rubber is not good. Cork or felt is OK.
- Correct vertical tracking angle of the stylus.
- Tube phono preamplifier
- If you use a MC cartridge, use a step-up transformer. Avoid transistor electronics.
Johnss, do you have any recomendation for a surfactant?
I have a Hannl (now Nessie) Record Cleaning Machine. Mr. Hannl once told me that the cleaning agent was developed by a chemist and it didn’t contain any alcohol but among other things a surfactant.
I used it for a while but then I started to mix my own to safe money. It was the classic pure water, IPA and wetting agent mix.
I never investigated it, but there were audible differences when I cleaned the records with the Hannl cleaner and the one I made myself…
Cheers, Boris
@planet IX, am using kodak photo flo as a surfactant. Mixed into a solution of distilled water and IPA, with IPA at 10%.
So please tell us how you determined the chemical composition of femtogram quantities of material with 99.9% accuracy please.
FTIR and HPLC with repeats.
you need to add enough where the final solution will wet the surface within 5-10 seconds. if it does not wet the surface, more is needed.
johnss and others - thanks for all the information.
This thread is about LP cleaning and removal of detritus, not specious comments about turntables - the quality thereof - et cetera.
This thread is about LP cleaning and removal of detritus, not specious comments about turntables - the quality thereof - et cetera.
FTIR and HPLC with repeats.
FTIR lacks sensitivity and can only prove that carbonate is there, not calcium. HPLC does not separate inorganic salts.
The BS alarm is going off.
Maybe you've never heard the differences between platter mats and their ability to dampen such unwanted clicks and pops.
And obviously you've never had the chance to audition the differences in materials that have great impact on how those disturbing noises on the LP records can be lowered by choosing different platter materials or chassis materials. I know, not eveyone has the ability to make those comparisons.
But for me, a new record is all which is needed to hear troublefree music pressed on this vinyl. I don't have to clean a record five times after purchasing it new to have fun with it. And with 95% of my used bought records its even not necessary to clean them with a wet mixture. Just a carbon brush is mostly all I need and I'm done.
But for those plastic chassis players, those acrylic platter players and rubber mat users in combination with light tonearms and pick up systems, that every housefly can bring out of track, the situation is much different.
And for those situations I offered some opinions.
If you don't like them, well, I have some others.
We have 6 platter mats, one plastic deck & 2 wood decks. All very high quality and darn near all our records are old.
I will agree that an acrylic slip may accentuate unwanted noise.
Do you have an MC capsule?
Schmitz77
Can you answer this ?
I suspect so, and it's probably a model (you said Ortofón, which one) that needs a high tracking force. That is an important point. Perhaps beyond all the considerations you have made.
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