Hi folks,
I need some help here. I have built a pair of ProAc Studio 100 clones (ScanSpeak 18W8542-10 & Seas 27TFFC), using the crossover schematics of ProAc Studio 1 MK2. Dampening should be fine, all parts are mid/high quality. No matter if driven by a NAD C316bee V2 @ 40WPC Class AB or a Nelson Pass Amp Camp Amp @ 8 WPC Class A, I am not happy with the bass response. Maybe this video might help to understand:
Deep Bass Response Entry 2m vs S100 clone - YouTube
Now I am wondering if something went wrong with my reversely "engineered" crossover. I am well aware of the fact that a 7" woofer cannot do wonders in terms of moving air. And still the outcome now is kind of weak, considering there is a lot more punch and lower frequency energy coming out of my 50 bucks ALR Entry 2ms. Also the drivers might need some time to burn in to sound their best (but I used to own a pair of ProAc DB3s and when they arrived factory new, they did punch a lot more with a smaller driver).
Now I am not sure what to do and was thinking of using a different crossover topology as in Troels Studio 101 MK1 as I was told it is superior to the original one.
Can anyone help here or give me an opinion? Would be much appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
Cheers from Vienna,
Johannes
I need some help here. I have built a pair of ProAc Studio 100 clones (ScanSpeak 18W8542-10 & Seas 27TFFC), using the crossover schematics of ProAc Studio 1 MK2. Dampening should be fine, all parts are mid/high quality. No matter if driven by a NAD C316bee V2 @ 40WPC Class AB or a Nelson Pass Amp Camp Amp @ 8 WPC Class A, I am not happy with the bass response. Maybe this video might help to understand:
Deep Bass Response Entry 2m vs S100 clone - YouTube
Now I am wondering if something went wrong with my reversely "engineered" crossover. I am well aware of the fact that a 7" woofer cannot do wonders in terms of moving air. And still the outcome now is kind of weak, considering there is a lot more punch and lower frequency energy coming out of my 50 bucks ALR Entry 2ms. Also the drivers might need some time to burn in to sound their best (but I used to own a pair of ProAc DB3s and when they arrived factory new, they did punch a lot more with a smaller driver).
Now I am not sure what to do and was thinking of using a different crossover topology as in Troels Studio 101 MK1 as I was told it is superior to the original one.
Can anyone help here or give me an opinion? Would be much appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
Cheers from Vienna,
Johannes
Here are some pictures of my crossover, cables to the right are tweeter, left woofer. Sorry for the non professional schematics, I haven't learned yet how to draw these.
20201221 211748 — Postimages
20201201 113146 HDR — Postimages
20201221 211748 — Postimages
20201201 113146 HDR — Postimages
That looks a lot better 🙂 only the coil l1 looks placed wrongly, it shoul go in parallell with the tweeter
Here is another try, I think this one is better now. By better I mean more accurate, first one might have been faulty.
20210214 180000 — Postimages
20210214 180000 — Postimages
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Yes I am aware of that. Values are correct definitely. But I don't know how to draw the topology correctly as I find the xover itself confusing. For example as you can see on my first drawing (the colored one), on the right side two caps and one inductor are connected on one side. I will draw another schematic and see if I can do it less confusingly. One moment!
Ok so I have ABSOLUTELY no clue whatsoever about this f****n x-over. drives me craaaazy :-D
When I follow the path from the red binding post it seems as if there was nothing in front of the woofer or tweeter. Signal is coming from + and going into - (ground) right?
When I follow the path from the red binding post it seems as if there was nothing in front of the woofer or tweeter. Signal is coming from + and going into - (ground) right?
Sorry but can you please help me out here? Red arrows are the signal. What happens on P1 and P2?
Further explanation on the drawing: the x's are soldering points on the pcb.
20210214 195930 — Postimages
Further explanation on the drawing: the x's are soldering points on the pcb.
20210214 195930 — Postimages
Ah okay! This makes sense then. Will re-draw it.
Values are exactly the same as on Studio 1 Mk2 crossover. Why do they look wrong to you?
the frequency response for both drivers with those component values seems sub optimal, the tweeter crossover slope seems peaky and the woofer capacitor value seems small, i guess it need a bigger value to get the woofer slope and phase to match the tweeter
And one final photo of the x-over schematics. I am still not 100% sure if that is right now but at least it looks nice and tidy now :-D
20210214 214803 — Postimages
20210214 214803 — Postimages
Hi,
I don't think there's necessarily much wrong with your clones. It's just that your cabinet is probably only 13 liters and the 8542-10 doesn't go as deep as the 8542-00 and would prefer a larger cabinet.
However, you can try to shorten your vents to 10 cm and see if that helps.
I don't think there's necessarily much wrong with your clones. It's just that your cabinet is probably only 13 liters and the 8542-10 doesn't go as deep as the 8542-00 and would prefer a larger cabinet.
However, you can try to shorten your vents to 10 cm and see if that helps.
