Hi all, I recently bought a set of spares or repair TDL Studio 3s. One has no drivers or tweeter. The other has a tweeter (labelled 25DT49 and marked 8ohm) and two 8" drivers (ELAC 8DC471). Note that these are the drivers with six bolts, rather than the four bolt square surround version.
From the Falcon Acoustics ELACIMFTDL spreadsheet (https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/downloads/Elacimftdl.pdf), it appears that Studio 3s should have 16ohm 8" drivers, so it looks like I've got the drivers from a pair of Studio 2s in there.
I'm not sure all the wiring is original and I believe the crossovers may have been fiddled with. I've struggled to find other pictures of Studio 3 crossovers but these look a fair bit sparser in comparison. I'm no expert (couldn't be farther from it), but from studying the wiring on the pics I could find, I think the one tweeter is wired the wrong way around. Also it looks like the woofers are wired in series (positive from xover to speaker 1, negative from speaker 1 to positive of speaker 2, negative to xover) whereas I think the drivers should be wired in parallel?
Both of the woofer cones appear to be in good condition and move freely, but when I plugged the one speaker with drivers in it into an amp, only 1 of the drivers appears to make a little bit of noise, and I'm not sure the tweeter is working as it ought to be either.
I've done a bit of research and the only similar driver I can find is the Monacor SPH-8M (link: Monacor SPH-8M chassis speaker - Sound Services). I'm assuming I'll need four of these, and won't be able to re-use the 2 x 4 ohm ELAC drivers currently in the cabinets?
Any advice on these Monacors? Will they work? The T/S parameters don't look vastly different, but would appreciate any advice! I'm working on the assumption that I'd wire these 2 x 8 ohm speakers in parallel for a 4 ohm load?
Also, with regards to tweeters, there's not a great deal of info on the originals, but I only have one of them. I've been looking at the Audax 12x9 (link: Audax HD12x9D25 HD12x8D25 spares and replacement voice coils from Falcon Acoustics, The Leading Supplier of DIY Hifi Components.) but not sure if these would be suitable? Firstly, these would be 8ohm. If the 2 x 8ohm woofers would give me a nominal 4 ohm per cab, what impedance tweeter would I want? With the Audaxes above, it doesn't look like the holes on the 12x9 faceplates would be in the right place to attach to the speaker, so am I better off trying to get new tweeter faceplates fabricated and finding a different pair of tweeters to bolt to them?
On top of all this, I'm assuming I'll need to play about with the crossovers to get them working properly with the above speakers.
Any advice, suggestions or recommendations?
Cheers!
From the Falcon Acoustics ELACIMFTDL spreadsheet (https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/downloads/Elacimftdl.pdf), it appears that Studio 3s should have 16ohm 8" drivers, so it looks like I've got the drivers from a pair of Studio 2s in there.
I'm not sure all the wiring is original and I believe the crossovers may have been fiddled with. I've struggled to find other pictures of Studio 3 crossovers but these look a fair bit sparser in comparison. I'm no expert (couldn't be farther from it), but from studying the wiring on the pics I could find, I think the one tweeter is wired the wrong way around. Also it looks like the woofers are wired in series (positive from xover to speaker 1, negative from speaker 1 to positive of speaker 2, negative to xover) whereas I think the drivers should be wired in parallel?
Both of the woofer cones appear to be in good condition and move freely, but when I plugged the one speaker with drivers in it into an amp, only 1 of the drivers appears to make a little bit of noise, and I'm not sure the tweeter is working as it ought to be either.
I've done a bit of research and the only similar driver I can find is the Monacor SPH-8M (link: Monacor SPH-8M chassis speaker - Sound Services). I'm assuming I'll need four of these, and won't be able to re-use the 2 x 4 ohm ELAC drivers currently in the cabinets?
Any advice on these Monacors? Will they work? The T/S parameters don't look vastly different, but would appreciate any advice! I'm working on the assumption that I'd wire these 2 x 8 ohm speakers in parallel for a 4 ohm load?
Also, with regards to tweeters, there's not a great deal of info on the originals, but I only have one of them. I've been looking at the Audax 12x9 (link: Audax HD12x9D25 HD12x8D25 spares and replacement voice coils from Falcon Acoustics, The Leading Supplier of DIY Hifi Components.) but not sure if these would be suitable? Firstly, these would be 8ohm. If the 2 x 8ohm woofers would give me a nominal 4 ohm per cab, what impedance tweeter would I want? With the Audaxes above, it doesn't look like the holes on the 12x9 faceplates would be in the right place to attach to the speaker, so am I better off trying to get new tweeter faceplates fabricated and finding a different pair of tweeters to bolt to them?
On top of all this, I'm assuming I'll need to play about with the crossovers to get them working properly with the above speakers.
Any advice, suggestions or recommendations?
Cheers!
Last edited:
Thanks, I'll need all the luck I can get I think... 🙂
Here's a couple of pictures of the crossover, I'm not an expert but I'm not sure these look the same as the schematic?
Here's a couple of pictures of the crossover, I'm not an expert but I'm not sure these look the same as the schematic?
Last edited:
Thanks! And do you (or anyone else!) think that if I'm putting new (different) drivers in, as well as new (different) tweeters, I would be able to re-use or follow the existing crossover schematics and values? Or would I need to start afresh from a crossover point of view?
Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on the drivers and tweeters that I'm considering?
Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on the drivers and tweeters that I'm considering?
Yes, that would change things enough to want different crossover filters. even the levels between them will be different.
That said, maybe you could begin with the same crossovers and adjust the tweeter resistors. If it is not enough then you might want to measure/simulate unless you feel confident tweaking the other components by ear.
That said, maybe you could begin with the same crossovers and adjust the tweeter resistors. If it is not enough then you might want to measure/simulate unless you feel confident tweaking the other components by ear.
Hi,
The TDL Studio 3 already was the topic some years ago (TDL Studio 3 crossover upgrade is better and yet worse as well) and then I came to the following conclusion regarding crossover:
However I don't know if the driver models in the schematic are completely correct...
🙂
The TDL Studio 3 already was the topic some years ago (TDL Studio 3 crossover upgrade is better and yet worse as well) and then I came to the following conclusion regarding crossover:
However I don't know if the driver models in the schematic are completely correct...
🙂
Thanks! I'd found that thread a couple of months ago when I first bought these speakers.
To be honest, I don't know enough how much it'll change things when I fit the new drivers.
Do you have any thoughts on the drivers I've found? Or the tweeter? I believe these were previously nominal 8 ohm (2x16 ohm woofers, 8 ohm tweeter).
If I get these monacor sph-8m woofers (2 x 8 ohm) and the audax tweeters (8 ohm) I'm guessing the nominal impedance will be 4ohm?
If I solder these in using the existing crossover, am I likely to blow anything up or break anything using it as a starting point? Or will I likely need to replace crossover components straight away?
Does anyone have any thoughts on those Monacor woofers or Audax tweeters before I buy them? Or better alternatives? A fair bit of expense so I'd appreciate all the reassurance I can get in advance of spending the money 🙂
These drivers are obviously a bit
To be honest, I don't know enough how much it'll change things when I fit the new drivers.
Do you have any thoughts on the drivers I've found? Or the tweeter? I believe these were previously nominal 8 ohm (2x16 ohm woofers, 8 ohm tweeter).
If I get these monacor sph-8m woofers (2 x 8 ohm) and the audax tweeters (8 ohm) I'm guessing the nominal impedance will be 4ohm?
If I solder these in using the existing crossover, am I likely to blow anything up or break anything using it as a starting point? Or will I likely need to replace crossover components straight away?
Does anyone have any thoughts on those Monacor woofers or Audax tweeters before I buy them? Or better alternatives? A fair bit of expense so I'd appreciate all the reassurance I can get in advance of spending the money 🙂
These drivers are obviously a bit
@ Dissi - Your crossover schematic certainly matches the physical crossover board down to the visible resistor and capacitor values, and is indicating two 8 ohm bass drivers in parallel.
@ TurtleRecall - Two 8 ohm speakers in parallel do, indeed, give a load of 4 ohm as per your enquiry.
@ TurtleRecall - Two 8 ohm speakers in parallel do, indeed, give a load of 4 ohm as per your enquiry.
Actually, the 8DC441 driver has a nominal impedance of 16 ohm according to the Elac pdf, so I'm wrong about indicating two 8 ohm drivers in parallel.
Sorry, post #8 came in on my screen after I started contributing earlier!
Sorry, post #8 came in on my screen after I started contributing earlier!
Last edited:
Given the changes you are proposing, this doesn't seem likely. You might notice a difference in sound, and this would be your motivation for wanting to change things.
Just go easy on the volume levels when trying something new.
I hope to redeem myself by saying that the crossover, which presently suits 8 ohm bass load + 8 ohm tweeter, will not precisely suit 4 ohm + 8 ohm.
However, you may be assured that it won't damage your fragile tweeters if utilised as a starting point.
However, you may be assured that it won't damage your fragile tweeters if utilised as a starting point.
Sorry, I'm new here so my posts still seem to get held up whilst a moderator OKs them. Makes it a bit confusing if someone replies too quickly 🙂
Thank you all for your input and advice so far!
Does anyone have any better suggestions for woofers/tweeters than the two I linked in my first post?
I've tried to compare the T/S parameters to those available in that falcon acoustics spreadsheet upthread. Those for the woofers seem relatively similar and there really aren't many other options that I can find that'd fit the hole. One thing to note is that the Monacors seem to want a crossover at about 2.5khz whereas the useful range of the original woofers looks to have been up to 3k?
And any suggestions for a drop in replacement for the original tdl tweeter? Or does the audax look like it'd do the trick?
Cheers!
It is hard to give advice without knowing your objectives and/or expectations for the process and the resulting speakers. Is this a valuable learning process for you or something of no value that you need to get done in order to get working speakers? What level of performance do you expect from the resulting speakers and for what cost? Minimum cost to get something that makes a recognisable noise, the cost of a decent DIY speaker in order to get the performance of a well designed speaker, or something else somewhere in between?
A transmission line tends to require the right amount of absorption along the line to allow the low frequencies through, to absorb the midrange frequencies and to match the Q or the driver. Foam perishes, wool settles, insects have lunch,... Do you know the state of the line for your speakers?
Speakers of this age tended to have fairly poor tweeters by modern standards leading to a high crossover frequency by modern standards. Large 8" midwoofers crossing at a high frequency had to be designed to behave acceptably in the presence of significant resonant motion over the upper part of their passband. The need for this today has reduced significantly and so have suitable drivers.
A modern standard range tweeter should offer better performance with almost no downside beyond having to design a suitable crossover. A modern 8" midwoofer with the right resonant behaviour and Q to match the transmission line is more of a challenge. Lowering the crossover frequency would seem an option. 8 ohm in parallel instead of 16 ohm in parallel is an option if you have an amp that is suitable for 4 ohms.
To do a good job without the original midwoofers you may need to:
- check and refurbish the line to be close to the original
- find an 8" midwoofer with a matching Q or 8 or 16 ohm that can work in a 2 way
- settle on a tweeter (few constraints)
- design a crossover for the baffle width, chosen drivers and the existing line
The last is likely to be a significant task but a fun one for those with the inclination.
To do a less good but cheaper in time and/or money might be possible. Without the original drivers a new crossover is almost certainly going to be needed. Is active an option by any chance due to suitable hardware lying around not being used?
A transmission line tends to require the right amount of absorption along the line to allow the low frequencies through, to absorb the midrange frequencies and to match the Q or the driver. Foam perishes, wool settles, insects have lunch,... Do you know the state of the line for your speakers?
Speakers of this age tended to have fairly poor tweeters by modern standards leading to a high crossover frequency by modern standards. Large 8" midwoofers crossing at a high frequency had to be designed to behave acceptably in the presence of significant resonant motion over the upper part of their passband. The need for this today has reduced significantly and so have suitable drivers.
A modern standard range tweeter should offer better performance with almost no downside beyond having to design a suitable crossover. A modern 8" midwoofer with the right resonant behaviour and Q to match the transmission line is more of a challenge. Lowering the crossover frequency would seem an option. 8 ohm in parallel instead of 16 ohm in parallel is an option if you have an amp that is suitable for 4 ohms.
To do a good job without the original midwoofers you may need to:
- check and refurbish the line to be close to the original
- find an 8" midwoofer with a matching Q or 8 or 16 ohm that can work in a 2 way
- settle on a tweeter (few constraints)
- design a crossover for the baffle width, chosen drivers and the existing line
The last is likely to be a significant task but a fun one for those with the inclination.
To do a less good but cheaper in time and/or money might be possible. Without the original drivers a new crossover is almost certainly going to be needed. Is active an option by any chance due to suitable hardware lying around not being used?
Hey Andy, thanks for the comprehensive reply!
I'll try to answer each question as best I can...
Is this a valuable learning process for you or something of no value that you need to get done in order to get working speakers?
Learning process! I have a set of original, working TDL Studio 2s already, had been keeping an eye out for Studio 3s and spotted these and thought it might be a fun project.
What level of performance do you expect from the resulting speakers and for what cost? Minimum cost to get something that makes a recognisable noise, the cost of a decent DIY speaker in order to get the performance of a well designed speaker, or something else somewhere in between?
That depends! I'm not saying money is no object, but if I get the Monacor woofers and a couple of tweeters, I think I'm looking at £250ish, plus some bits for crossovers, which would be fine if I can end up with a decent set of speakers (closer to the latter than the former of your two points).
A transmission line tends to require the right amount of absorption along the line to allow the low frequencies through, to absorb the midrange frequencies and to match the Q or the driver. Foam perishes, wool settles, insects have lunch,... Do you know the state of the line for your speakers?
The innards of the transmission line look ok, I should (and will) take some pics of the speakers, but these have got the kind of yellow eggbox foam inside and it looks to be in good condition.
Speakers of this age tended to have fairly poor tweeters by modern standards leading to a high crossover frequency by modern standards. Large 8" midwoofers crossing at a high frequency had to be designed to behave acceptably in the presence of significant resonant motion over the upper part of their passband. The need for this today has reduced significantly and so have suitable drivers.
A modern standard range tweeter should offer better performance with almost no downside beyond having to design a suitable crossover. A modern 8" midwoofer with the right resonant behaviour and Q to match the transmission line is more of a challenge. Lowering the crossover frequency would seem an option. 8 ohm in parallel instead of 16 ohm in parallel is an option if you have an amp that is suitable for 4 ohms.
Interesting! So that explains why I've not been able to find many drivers with similar specs to the originals... Both my amps can handle 4 ohm speakers, so no concerns on that side of things. Do you have any thoughts on modern woofers with suitable resonant behaviour and Q?
To do a good job without the original midwoofers you may need to:
- check and refurbish the line to be close to the original
- find an 8" midwoofer with a matching Q or 8 or 16 ohm that can work in a 2 way
- settle on a tweeter (few constraints)
- design a crossover for the baffle width, chosen drivers and the existing line
The last is likely to be a significant task but a fun one for those with the inclination.
So I think the line's OK, any specific steps/things to check to confirm this?
Any pointers on woofers? Is the Monacor SPH-8M suitable? If not, could you explain why and what I should be looking out for?
Any recommendations on suitable tweeters?
I don't know how I'd design a crossover, but I'd be interested in learning and taking advice from people with knowledge and experience of doing so on here!
To do a less good but cheaper in time and/or money might be possible. Without the original drivers a new crossover is almost certainly going to be needed. Is active an option by any chance due to suitable hardware lying around not being used?
I don't have the parts to make the speakers active, happy to keep them passive and mess about with trying to make a new crossover work...
Cheers!
I'll try to answer each question as best I can...
Is this a valuable learning process for you or something of no value that you need to get done in order to get working speakers?
Learning process! I have a set of original, working TDL Studio 2s already, had been keeping an eye out for Studio 3s and spotted these and thought it might be a fun project.
What level of performance do you expect from the resulting speakers and for what cost? Minimum cost to get something that makes a recognisable noise, the cost of a decent DIY speaker in order to get the performance of a well designed speaker, or something else somewhere in between?
That depends! I'm not saying money is no object, but if I get the Monacor woofers and a couple of tweeters, I think I'm looking at £250ish, plus some bits for crossovers, which would be fine if I can end up with a decent set of speakers (closer to the latter than the former of your two points).
A transmission line tends to require the right amount of absorption along the line to allow the low frequencies through, to absorb the midrange frequencies and to match the Q or the driver. Foam perishes, wool settles, insects have lunch,... Do you know the state of the line for your speakers?
The innards of the transmission line look ok, I should (and will) take some pics of the speakers, but these have got the kind of yellow eggbox foam inside and it looks to be in good condition.
Speakers of this age tended to have fairly poor tweeters by modern standards leading to a high crossover frequency by modern standards. Large 8" midwoofers crossing at a high frequency had to be designed to behave acceptably in the presence of significant resonant motion over the upper part of their passband. The need for this today has reduced significantly and so have suitable drivers.
A modern standard range tweeter should offer better performance with almost no downside beyond having to design a suitable crossover. A modern 8" midwoofer with the right resonant behaviour and Q to match the transmission line is more of a challenge. Lowering the crossover frequency would seem an option. 8 ohm in parallel instead of 16 ohm in parallel is an option if you have an amp that is suitable for 4 ohms.
Interesting! So that explains why I've not been able to find many drivers with similar specs to the originals... Both my amps can handle 4 ohm speakers, so no concerns on that side of things. Do you have any thoughts on modern woofers with suitable resonant behaviour and Q?
To do a good job without the original midwoofers you may need to:
- check and refurbish the line to be close to the original
- find an 8" midwoofer with a matching Q or 8 or 16 ohm that can work in a 2 way
- settle on a tweeter (few constraints)
- design a crossover for the baffle width, chosen drivers and the existing line
The last is likely to be a significant task but a fun one for those with the inclination.
So I think the line's OK, any specific steps/things to check to confirm this?
Any pointers on woofers? Is the Monacor SPH-8M suitable? If not, could you explain why and what I should be looking out for?
Any recommendations on suitable tweeters?
I don't know how I'd design a crossover, but I'd be interested in learning and taking advice from people with knowledge and experience of doing so on here!
To do a less good but cheaper in time and/or money might be possible. Without the original drivers a new crossover is almost certainly going to be needed. Is active an option by any chance due to suitable hardware lying around not being used?
I don't have the parts to make the speakers active, happy to keep them passive and mess about with trying to make a new crossover work...
Cheers!
Foam often turns to crumbs with age. Have you poked and felt it? If it is in good condition then that would be a significant plus.
I have never looked for this type of driver or designed a 2 way with a large midwoofer and a soft well damped cone. There might be one or two around but I am not the person to ask.
Put the drivers you have got in the baffle and measure the port and cone output. Plug the parameters for the drivers you have got into a transmission line simulator and compare. Adjust parameters in simulator and compare. This might not nail down everything but should move things forward a fair way.
The best way to answer that for the low frequency end is to put the driver parameters into a simulator and compare. I very sketchily did this for a sealed enclosure and the low frequency behaviour differed too much to be a reasonable substitute. You should of course do this for a simulation of your transmission line not a sealed enclosure. The exercise will show you which parameters are relevant and how to trade them off given your circumstances of a fixed line.
Further guidance can be found here and their transmission line facebook group is active and likely a good place to ask for detailed guidance about simulators and driver parameters for your line.
A good way to start gathering information about the high frequency end of the midwoofer passband is to look at the frequency response. I have not seen the response for your TDL driver but would expect it to have lots of small wiggles but broadly roll-off smoothly around the crossover frequency. The Monacor has a large resonant peak at 3.5 kHz and so would not be suitable to be used in the same way as the TDL driver. You could explore lowering the crossover frequency and steepening the slope.
I would suggest sorting the choice of midwoofer first so that you know how low the tweeter will need to be crossed, the sensitivity required,... I would expect there to be a number of suitable candidates from manufacturer's standard ranges for the tweeter. A suitable midwoofer is likely to be the main challenge and less so the tweeter.
There is plenty of guidance around but I moved from passive to active crossovers for my own designs in the late 70s.
Same sized drivers should usually be crossed up to a frequency related to their size. Don't be mislead by response smoothness, although that can sometimes have a little to do with it.
Thanks again for the helpful responses!
I have now poked around inside and can confirm that the foam is in good condition!
OK fair enough 🙂 do you think the T/S numbers and specs in the ELACTDLIMF spreadsheet sufficient to work out what a suitable replacement would be?
Just to clarify - measure the port and cone output with the two speakers currently in there? How do I measure this? Note that I'm not sure the two speakers work properly and I do know that they're not the correct drivers for the Studio 3. I guess I'd need to unsolder them from the crossover and wire them in series to each other and then hook them up to an amp?
Thanks, I'll look into this!
I can't find a frequency response curve anywhere for the TDL driver. You did mention modern tweeters being better able to deal with slightly lower frequencies, I think? And that modern bass/mid drivers are designed with this in mind. The Monacor suggests it's good up to 2.5kHz, so with that in mind, a lower crossover frequency feels like it'd make sense (unless anyone can chime in with any other suggestions for alternative drivers)?
Thanks, I did spend a fair bit of time looking for a woofer when I first got these speakers, but couldn't find much - back then I was mostly comparing the incomplete T/S parameters from the ELACTDLIMF chart and the dimensions (as I'd rather avoid woodwork!), rather than the frequency curve.
Ah! I thought you were talking about active speakers, rather than crossovers. I'd not considered active crossovers, nor am I sure what it'd entail. I'll look into this! What's the benefits in your opinion?
Also, here's some pictures of the speakers:
I have now poked around inside and can confirm that the foam is in good condition!
OK fair enough 🙂 do you think the T/S numbers and specs in the ELACTDLIMF spreadsheet sufficient to work out what a suitable replacement would be?
Just to clarify - measure the port and cone output with the two speakers currently in there? How do I measure this? Note that I'm not sure the two speakers work properly and I do know that they're not the correct drivers for the Studio 3. I guess I'd need to unsolder them from the crossover and wire them in series to each other and then hook them up to an amp?
Thanks, I'll look into this!
I can't find a frequency response curve anywhere for the TDL driver. You did mention modern tweeters being better able to deal with slightly lower frequencies, I think? And that modern bass/mid drivers are designed with this in mind. The Monacor suggests it's good up to 2.5kHz, so with that in mind, a lower crossover frequency feels like it'd make sense (unless anyone can chime in with any other suggestions for alternative drivers)?
Thanks, I did spend a fair bit of time looking for a woofer when I first got these speakers, but couldn't find much - back then I was mostly comparing the incomplete T/S parameters from the ELACTDLIMF chart and the dimensions (as I'd rather avoid woodwork!), rather than the frequency curve.
Ah! I thought you were talking about active speakers, rather than crossovers. I'd not considered active crossovers, nor am I sure what it'd entail. I'll look into this! What's the benefits in your opinion?
Also, here's some pictures of the speakers:
That depends on the quality of the job you want to do. As seems to have been attempted and abandoned by the previous owner (?) one can fit pretty much any driver within reason and it will "work". To get a good quality low frequency response you will need to use a midwoofer with appropriate parameters for your line. That is perhaps a bit more flexilble than looking for a driver with identical parameters to the originals but you will first need to gather data on your line by measurement and simulation so that you can determine which combinations of parameters will be a reasonable fit.
At the high frequency end the 8" midwoofer needs to be designed to work smoothly through the midrange. That means smoothly for about an octave above the crossover frequency (i.e. to 6 kHz when crossed at 3 kHz) because both tweeter and midwoofer will be heard around the crossover frequency. The SPH-8M is unsuitable in this respect because it has a strong 10 dB resonance at 3.5 kHz. The SPH-220HQ (which I noticed when looking up the SPH-8M) is significantly more suitable in this respect. How suitable the parameters are for the low frequency end I will leave you to assess by simulating your line.
With a microphone and software to create a signal and process the results. REW is a free example but there are several others both free and commercial.
The crossover won't affect the low frequency end but taking them out to look for a label to identify them might be useful. Also if you want to measure the driver parameters you will need to take them out and fiddle about a bit.
They are more flexible, tunable and higher performance but for a DIYer without most of the bits already they will be a lot more expensive than a passive 2 way crossover.
Yeah, this was all stuff done by the previous owner (or, rather the previous previous owner). The guy I bought the speakers from had found them in their current state in a secondhand shop, apparently. As I mentioned previously, I'd like to take my time with this and learn as much as I can as I go.
Thanks for explaining about the SPH-8M, I see what you mean, the SPH-220HQ does look smoother above 3kHz. The downside of these would be that I'd have to cut the holes a little bigger to allow these to fit (diameter is currently 185mm). Not sure how I'd do this without making a dreadful mess or taking the cabinets apart...
I've had a look at various websites and fora (inc. the quarter-wave site you linked) re: simulating the line and downloaded a few programs but thus far can't make head nor tail of it. The Mathcad/MJK stuff also appears to be defunct, or have I missed something? Anyway, I'll have to do a LOT more reading on this stuff. Am I incorrect in thinking that most are made for you to work from having a driver and a 'goal' with regards to frequency response, rather than reverse engineering a cabinet and trying out different drivers within it? Not sure how I'm going to measure the interior bits of the line... Or am I misunderstanding/going about this the wrong way?
Still haven't had a chance to mess about with this side of things, but thanks - I'll look into REW.
I took the two drivers out a while back. Both are labelled ELAC 8DC/471, which according to the ELACIMFTDL spreadsheet are the drivers for the TDL Studio 2 (v3).
I'd assumed that apart from impedance they'd be pretty similar T/S-wise to the original ELAC 8DC/472 Studio 3 (v3) drivers (for which the spreadsheet has basically no T/S info). But comparing the incomplete data from the Studio 2 and 3 V2 drivers I'm not sure how similar I can assume the parameters of the 471 and 472 drivers will be? I've attached the relevant bits from the spreadsheet as a screenshot.
Cheers!