OK, need to get my 2nd FiFoPI Stack set up 1st. Good Sunday Project.
I have a working HiFiBerry Stack that just needs Shield & FiFoPI thrown on to it, test. Then I'll remove the DAC & give the D3 a whirl.
I really appreciate the help. This isn't like building a SALAS Reg, or an ESP - Audio Phono Stage w/ OpAmp's, it's a whole nother animal completely.
Aguaazul
Success on Zeroing the offset! I built a new RPi 4 stack, tested it with 2 RPi OS Images, Max2Play & Volumio. I removed the Lundahl LL1544A transformer output stage, removed Ian's ES9038Q2MDualMonoDacHAT & ShieldPI.
Connected the: FiFoPI exactly like @turbo did in post: DIY TDA1541A PCB "D3"
The Empty LED is lit with no Lock & I2S LEDs illuminated. Any thoughts?
Getting closer.
Connected the: FiFoPI exactly like @turbo did in post: DIY TDA1541A PCB "D3"
The Empty LED is lit with no Lock & I2S LEDs illuminated. Any thoughts?
Getting closer.
R22 - WSC452710R00FEA Not in Stock. Any of these OK?
WSC000210R00FEB
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEB?qs=mHirYe46T7lTiPikRgLDhA%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FEA
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEA?qs=UD2USODSvmL%2FE3M9jTcyug%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FEK
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEK?qs=mHirYe46T7nbGRQH5pKg1g%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FTA
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FTA?qs=Ygc624OplE2jbt%2FIyJewOA%3D%3D
Thanks Aguaazul
WSC000210R00FEB
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEB?qs=mHirYe46T7lTiPikRgLDhA%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FEA
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEA?qs=UD2USODSvmL%2FE3M9jTcyug%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FEK
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FEK?qs=mHirYe46T7nbGRQH5pKg1g%3D%3D
WSC000210R00FTA
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/WSC000210R00FTA?qs=Ygc624OplE2jbt%2FIyJewOA%3D%3D
Thanks Aguaazul
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Hi,
at last i found the time to solder my D3 and i will try it first with only a passive R output. For longer term this will not be enough though, because of the low gain, so i will try to make an IV with more gain.
Its rather hard to find old toshiba transistors nowadays, so i will use the two 6N2P tubes i have lying around for some years now. The tube output seems to be rather simple, only the psu makes me wonder a bit. My tubes are specced for 250V and 6,3V heater. The heater is no problem, but after i searched for 6N2P IV stages for the TDA1541A i found one from Lukasz Fikus.
http://lampizator.eu/lampizator/references/SATCH/IMG_5501.jpg
The secondary winding of his PSU is about 120V. What is the right voltage now ? Even after rectifing diodes there will be about 170V and not 250V that are in my 6N2P datasheets.
What do i understand wrong ?
I can buy a torroid with 6.3V 4A and 0 - 180 / 220 / 250 / 300 0,21A for cheap, will this one be possible ? And how will i need to create such a psu ?
Lukasz's IV R is 100ohm. I have a wire wound good quality one with 90ohm. This should not make any problems, besides higher output voltage, right ?
at last i found the time to solder my D3 and i will try it first with only a passive R output. For longer term this will not be enough though, because of the low gain, so i will try to make an IV with more gain.
Its rather hard to find old toshiba transistors nowadays, so i will use the two 6N2P tubes i have lying around for some years now. The tube output seems to be rather simple, only the psu makes me wonder a bit. My tubes are specced for 250V and 6,3V heater. The heater is no problem, but after i searched for 6N2P IV stages for the TDA1541A i found one from Lukasz Fikus.
http://lampizator.eu/lampizator/references/SATCH/IMG_5501.jpg
The secondary winding of his PSU is about 120V. What is the right voltage now ? Even after rectifing diodes there will be about 170V and not 250V that are in my 6N2P datasheets.
What do i understand wrong ?
I can buy a torroid with 6.3V 4A and 0 - 180 / 220 / 250 / 300 0,21A for cheap, will this one be possible ? And how will i need to create such a psu ?
Lukasz's IV R is 100ohm. I have a wire wound good quality one with 90ohm. This should not make any problems, besides higher output voltage, right ?
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250V is the maximum voltage for the tube. It is not necessarily the best operating voltage, or even a good operating voltage. The tube does not appear to behave in a very linear fashion at that voltage (i.e. will have high distortion).
Here is a data sheet with curves:
https://drtube.com/datasheets/6n2p-ev.pdf
My suggestion is to build it as designed. Lukasz Fikus knows a bit about about electronics.
Here is a data sheet with curves:
https://drtube.com/datasheets/6n2p-ev.pdf
My suggestion is to build it as designed. Lukasz Fikus knows a bit about about electronics.
Hello i need some help about d3 capmx psu. I'm trying to use it for feeding a linear regulator and get the output from that regulator of 5v.
When i connect the d3capmx alone with a +-9 volt Transformer i get on the output from 7 volts up and start climbing to 13 volts and more when i measure the output with multimeter. But when i connect d3 capmx with the linear regulator i get only 6.7 volt output on d3 cap mx.
Seems to work fine but i don t understand the math of the cap mx.
When i connect the d3capmx alone with a +-9 volt Transformer i get on the output from 7 volts up and start climbing to 13 volts and more when i measure the output with multimeter. But when i connect d3 capmx with the linear regulator i get only 6.7 volt output on d3 cap mx.
Seems to work fine but i don t understand the math of the cap mx.
Hi pistollero,
Is that with the supply under load? You might have to lower the value of R4 and R5 to allow for voltage drop.
Thanks Pistorello and Ryan
That information was well timed.
I had originally tested my CMx board with a 22V transformer I had on hand and my output voltage seemed right on for the D3 26V supply, but it was too large to fit in my case with all the other boards and transformers I need.
I’ve had to replace my transformers with smaller Triad units. The one for the 26V produces higher voltage (about 27.5V after the CMx). I’ll have to adjust R4 and R5 down now I suppose.
I wanted to be sure about how I’m testing my supplies before hand and also once I have the D3 connected with the TDA1541 in place.
Ryan stated at some point that the D3 board consumes about 140mA.
I’m performing my tests using guidance I got from Salas in the SSLV thread on my other supplies regarding dummy loads and current setting.
I have a couple of 5 watt 100 Ohm resistors in series across the CMx output to produce a 200 Ohm load. I based the load on the 140mA figure divided by 26V. Does this sound appropriate?
I’m not sure if there should be headroom in the current setting of the power supplies.
I’m assuming that the CMx was designed to provide sufficient current. The Triad transformer I’m using for the 26V supply is the 25VA VPT48-520.
I read earlier in this thread that the 5V supply for the D3 and I2StoSIM board combined shouldn’t exceed 30mA.
That would require a very low current setting of the SSLV I am using for 5V. I’m under the impression that the SSLV was only meant to be set as low as 100mA. Mine is currently set to about 180mA.
I’m testing the 5V SSLV with a 50 Ohm load. I’m using one secondary of a Triad 25VA VPT24-1040 transformer to power it (the other secondary powers a 6V SSLV supply for fifo/dual clock/spdif).
I can reduce the 5V supply current setting further, and want to make sure it’s not producing more heat than necessary. Any guidance here would be appreciated.
I do have a second Triad VPT24-1040 if it is a bad idea to power the two SSLV supplies off of the one transformer...it is easier to use one and it takes up less space. The secondaries are supposed to be good for 2.08A in parallel.
I’m trying to get confirmation on what the 6V current setting for this original fifo/dual clock/spdif combination requires. There is mention of 500mA in the original fifo manual...but there is contradictory recommendations throughout the related threads based on what boards and crystals are used in combination. I want this supply to be as simple as possible but also deliver the correct current without creating too much heat in dissipation. Any one that might have used a SSLV to power this fifo combination?
Lastly, once I’m ready to connect the D3 and test for proper +15, +5 and -5 voltage at the appropriate pins, my understanding is that I have to have the TDA1541A in place and/or a load at the output of the D3?
I’d feel better not risking exposure of a good 1541 to potentially incorrect voltages in case I screwed something up. Will installing some iv resistors at the output of the D3 create the proper load to test for correct voltages at the 1541 socket?
That information was well timed.
I had originally tested my CMx board with a 22V transformer I had on hand and my output voltage seemed right on for the D3 26V supply, but it was too large to fit in my case with all the other boards and transformers I need.
I’ve had to replace my transformers with smaller Triad units. The one for the 26V produces higher voltage (about 27.5V after the CMx). I’ll have to adjust R4 and R5 down now I suppose.
I wanted to be sure about how I’m testing my supplies before hand and also once I have the D3 connected with the TDA1541 in place.
Ryan stated at some point that the D3 board consumes about 140mA.
I’m performing my tests using guidance I got from Salas in the SSLV thread on my other supplies regarding dummy loads and current setting.
I have a couple of 5 watt 100 Ohm resistors in series across the CMx output to produce a 200 Ohm load. I based the load on the 140mA figure divided by 26V. Does this sound appropriate?
I’m not sure if there should be headroom in the current setting of the power supplies.
I’m assuming that the CMx was designed to provide sufficient current. The Triad transformer I’m using for the 26V supply is the 25VA VPT48-520.
I read earlier in this thread that the 5V supply for the D3 and I2StoSIM board combined shouldn’t exceed 30mA.
That would require a very low current setting of the SSLV I am using for 5V. I’m under the impression that the SSLV was only meant to be set as low as 100mA. Mine is currently set to about 180mA.
I’m testing the 5V SSLV with a 50 Ohm load. I’m using one secondary of a Triad 25VA VPT24-1040 transformer to power it (the other secondary powers a 6V SSLV supply for fifo/dual clock/spdif).
I can reduce the 5V supply current setting further, and want to make sure it’s not producing more heat than necessary. Any guidance here would be appreciated.
I do have a second Triad VPT24-1040 if it is a bad idea to power the two SSLV supplies off of the one transformer...it is easier to use one and it takes up less space. The secondaries are supposed to be good for 2.08A in parallel.
I’m trying to get confirmation on what the 6V current setting for this original fifo/dual clock/spdif combination requires. There is mention of 500mA in the original fifo manual...but there is contradictory recommendations throughout the related threads based on what boards and crystals are used in combination. I want this supply to be as simple as possible but also deliver the correct current without creating too much heat in dissipation. Any one that might have used a SSLV to power this fifo combination?
Lastly, once I’m ready to connect the D3 and test for proper +15, +5 and -5 voltage at the appropriate pins, my understanding is that I have to have the TDA1541A in place and/or a load at the output of the D3?
I’d feel better not risking exposure of a good 1541 to potentially incorrect voltages in case I screwed something up. Will installing some iv resistors at the output of the D3 create the proper load to test for correct voltages at the 1541 socket?
There is kind of substitute with 6 * tda1387. See ebay for $7 maybe you could try such a thing.
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Thanks...I’m not looking for a substitute to the D3. I just wanted to minimize risk of damage to my tda1541 while testing voltages on the board.
Can anyone tell me about how much I need to reduce R4 and R5 to get my CMx down from its current 27.5V output voltage to the 26V I need?
I tried soldering some 100 Ohm resistors in parallel to the 15 Ohm resistors already installed...it gave me about 13.5 Ohms.
Instead of reducing voltage I saw a slight increase. I do have fluctuations in line voltage throughout the day. I’m not sure if that is to blame.
Did I misunderstand the adjustment of R4 and R5? Do they instead need to be increased to lower voltage output? I think I did...Ryan was talking about not allowing for voltage drop through the linear regulator.
Can anyone tell me about how much I need to reduce R4 and R5 to get my CMx down from its current 27.5V output voltage to the 26V I need?
I tried soldering some 100 Ohm resistors in parallel to the 15 Ohm resistors already installed...it gave me about 13.5 Ohms.
Instead of reducing voltage I saw a slight increase. I do have fluctuations in line voltage throughout the day. I’m not sure if that is to blame.
Did I misunderstand the adjustment of R4 and R5? Do they instead need to be increased to lower voltage output? I think I did...Ryan was talking about not allowing for voltage drop through the linear regulator.
I installed a 22 Ohm 2W resistor at R4 and R5. I’ve managed to dial in about 25.7V with a 200 Ohm dummy load across the CMx output.
Just wondering if I need to play with it more to bring it back up a little. Maybe 1K in parallel?
The pads on the board took a bit of abuse while removing the previous resistors. I left the legs long on these new 22 Ohm ones so I can tag on something in parallel without putting more heat into the pads.
Just not sure how accurate the dummy load is and if I need to bump into he voltage up more.
Just wondering if I need to play with it more to bring it back up a little. Maybe 1K in parallel?
The pads on the board took a bit of abuse while removing the previous resistors. I left the legs long on these new 22 Ohm ones so I can tag on something in parallel without putting more heat into the pads.
Just not sure how accurate the dummy load is and if I need to bump into he voltage up more.