I have a Toshiba 330 power amp issue which I've had for about 10 years. I successfully replaced the Differential pair transistors in the amp a few years ago and its been in daily use ever since.
Recently I've started getting loud pops through my speakers. Sometimes it happens after the amp has been powered down. I've decided to stop using it until I can do a proper overhaul. Since I am currently unable to work due to cronavirus self isolation I have plenty of time on my hands to work on the amp.
I am guessing the amp needs a re-cap. Having never done this before I am unsure which caps need to go or which ones are likely to be causing the pops. Would it be excessive to replace all the capacitors or should I start with specific ones, if so, which ones?
Pics of the circuit board to follow.
Cheers
Recently I've started getting loud pops through my speakers. Sometimes it happens after the amp has been powered down. I've decided to stop using it until I can do a proper overhaul. Since I am currently unable to work due to cronavirus self isolation I have plenty of time on my hands to work on the amp.
I am guessing the amp needs a re-cap. Having never done this before I am unsure which caps need to go or which ones are likely to be causing the pops. Would it be excessive to replace all the capacitors or should I start with specific ones, if so, which ones?
Pics of the circuit board to follow.
Cheers
I found a website which has a full kit of 28 "Nichicon audio capacitors" for €29.00. Seems like a good deal and would be a lot easier than sourcing all the caps separately and likely having to pay postage costs to multiple vendors...
Toshiba SY-330 Upgrade Kit Audio Capacitors
Anyone used that site?
Toshiba SY-330 Upgrade Kit Audio Capacitors
Anyone used that site?
I have an Aurex labeled version of that amp. I like it. My tech fixed after a cat decided it needed soe urine in it. He might be able to help.
dave
dave
Odd for a capacitor problem. Hook up some junker speakers, and poke around with a pencil eraser.
You may find something. Presumably this is independent of the volume control.
Pretty sure it is, yes. I have been using the speaker A/B/off selector switch after powering down so that it can't cause damage to the speakers but I'm pretty sure if I left it on speakers A which the speakers are attached to it would still be heard with the volume turned down to 0.
Hi, these caps needed to recap which important to the amp sounding.
The input caps 10uf/35v can be replaced by 10uf/50v and the four 4.7uf/50v can be replaced a 10uf/50v(which same as the input cap change), so that you just need to buy 6pcs 10uf/50v to replace them.
For the power supply board 10000uf/50v big caps, if you never recap them before, suggest recap them this time.
The cap you need to buy, you can check that if you can buy them form one vendor.
100uf/(6.3v to 25v is ok) x2pcs
100uf/50v x1pc
10uf/50v x6pcs
10000uf/50v x2pcs
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Wow, Patrick that's fantastic thank you very much. I will get ordering.
Are electrolytic's ok or is it worth upgrading?
Thanks
Are electrolytic's ok or is it worth upgrading?
Thanks
Thanks again, Patrick. I am looking at Nichicon caps however for the 2 10000uf/50v they are pretty expensive. Would these be any good? 2 x 10000uf 50V capacitors Samwha HC Low profile Series | eBay
B grade stock but very cheap!
B Grade 10,000uF 50V Capacitor Hi-fi Audio Amplifier PSU Smoothing 10000 MFD | eBay
B Grade 10,000uF 50V Capacitor Hi-fi Audio Amplifier PSU Smoothing 10000 MFD | eBay
Samwha is not so good. Nichicon normal grade cap should not be so expensive.
B grade cap is better than samwha and you can use them
B grade cap is better than samwha and you can use them
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Good price but I'm in the UK 🙁
I will email the seller of the Panasonic's and make sure they are 50v, if they are definitely 50v and not 16v like in the pic would they be suitable?
Thanks
