Hi, I just received pcb for this distinction v3. Could anyone give me part list for it?
Thank you very much.
Thank you very much.
Thanks Greg. Would you mind to share which are key parts that affect sound quality I should pay attention to.
My plan is to use this TDA1541 with SDTrans384.
My plan is to use this TDA1541 with SDTrans384.
The key parts? All of them! 😀
1. The TDA1541 (distortion / tolerance) of your chip. I have several of these chips, S1, R1, A. The S1 sounds noticeably better then the others to me.
2. The I / V (start with Ryan's for testing. Then, later if you are using your own, then you need to un-mount all of the on-board I/V components (page 2 of the schematic)
R35 and R36, if using Ryan's I/V is a place to experiment with both type and R value.
3. The floating and grounded 26v and 5v. I use Salas' supplies exclusively. The SSLV (basically, a class-A amp that's specifically designed to be a power supply and Reflektor D for the 5v.
5. The I2S implemenation. Use Ryan's Simultaneous board or the Jlsounds USB to I2s, set for the TDA1541
As far as assembly goes, quoting Ryan:
Lately the first thing I solder on the D3 board is the minimum amount of parts to get the 3 supplies working, so if there is something wrong there aren't many parts the check/replace/reflow.
Solder these first, then test -
X1, X2, X3, C5, C13, C21,
R19, R20, R18, R24, R23, R25, R28, R30, R27, R29, R21, R17, R16
Q3, Q2, Q1, CC1, V1, R22.
Once these parts are in place I place the dummy load into the dip-28 socket holes and then power it up. If all is well your current should be around 135mA. If I have an issue I usually inspect all the solder joints. Then I re-flow the suspect joints using a little bit of flux.
Without the caps in place the supply voltages wont be accurate or stable but they should be close enough to verify operation.
Use hot air whenever possible, by I think it's much easier to solder the Tantalums with an SMD tip and SMD paste and flux.
All of that should keep you busy for awhile.
Cheers,
Greg
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How lucky I am! Thank you very much Greg
This will become my important checklist and guideline for my project.
1. The TDA1541: I got one S1 version from an old CD Player (and have 01 non A version for testing) - Done
2. The I/V: I will use my diy Ecc88 tube buffer. So I may skip soldering on board I/V component - Will check detail later on.
3. Power supply: I have 5V shunt power supply from TPA buffallo project, will try to complete Salas shunt for 26V.
4. I2S implementation: I plan to connect I2S signal directly from my SDTrans384. So it is ok for now. But I am also considering between Pi + Ian I2S or JLsound USBtoI2S. Also curious on Beagle Bone Black solution.
But I have to review and order some parts first.
This will become my important checklist and guideline for my project.
1. The TDA1541: I got one S1 version from an old CD Player (and have 01 non A version for testing) - Done
2. The I/V: I will use my diy Ecc88 tube buffer. So I may skip soldering on board I/V component - Will check detail later on.
3. Power supply: I have 5V shunt power supply from TPA buffallo project, will try to complete Salas shunt for 26V.
4. I2S implementation: I plan to connect I2S signal directly from my SDTrans384. So it is ok for now. But I am also considering between Pi + Ian I2S or JLsound USBtoI2S. Also curious on Beagle Bone Black solution.
But I have to review and order some parts first.
Sound like you have a good a plan. I have read (a dangerous thing) that the JLsounds board sounds better then IanCanada Pi to I2s, even though it's a USB solution. The best part about the JLsounds board is that you can power the bus and oscillator / clocks separately if you desire.
I'm running a special Linux OS called Euphony, it made a huge difference in my setup over other Linux OS that I tried. I would encourage everyone on this forum, if your hardware can run it, to try it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Greg
@Sumotan: I am powering SDTrans384 with LifePO4, do you think should I still need I2S simultaneous board?
@Greg: I want to avoid USB actualy, eventhough I have good impression with WaveIO (used it for years with my TPA Buffalo B3). Considering JLSound just because of reading that is better than others. Not sure about Ian PI I2S.
Regarding computer audio, I tried Daphile, Audiophile Linux but not so long. Is Euphony able to compare with Roon on Windows or Mac interm of quality? Are you using Amanero USB?
Also considering Engineered eRED streamer (eRED-DOCK network audio interface - electronic, engineering and consulting)
But think that I am lost in computer/streamer/USB now. That's why I will use SDTrans until figure out best way to go.
Many thanks.
@Greg: I want to avoid USB actualy, eventhough I have good impression with WaveIO (used it for years with my TPA Buffalo B3). Considering JLSound just because of reading that is better than others. Not sure about Ian PI I2S.
Regarding computer audio, I tried Daphile, Audiophile Linux but not so long. Is Euphony able to compare with Roon on Windows or Mac interm of quality? Are you using Amanero USB?
Also considering Engineered eRED streamer (eRED-DOCK network audio interface - electronic, engineering and consulting)
But think that I am lost in computer/streamer/USB now. That's why I will use SDTrans until figure out best way to go.
Many thanks.
So your using 1 lipo to power the whole Sd Trans Bitinhvi, I use individual PS & that made a huge difference in SQ. Re I2S for me I listen only to Red Book so its good enough for me.
Euphony is the just the OS, and it runs pretty much most of the commercial players. In my case, it acts as a Roon endpoint with Tidal for me. Works seamlessly with my ipad or phone. Again, I can't stress how much better this sounds then other Linux solutions.
Cheers,
Greg
Euphony screenshot. The player selection is saved, therefore, I’m normally not in the app, but in Roon.
For SDTrans, I am using 03 batteries, like this:
- 01 battery: providing 3.2V (direct) and 1.2V, 2.5V (through 02 LDOVR 3405)
- 02 batteries: providing 5V for LCD (through a regulator).
I guess I have to self compare between with and without simultaneous pcb.
From my own experiments which may sound ironic, the 5v supply affects the SQ alot. Thought on manual it says to power Lcd only we don't know for sure.
Are there any downsides if i use the on board IV stage ?
I've got a 10VA 0-30V torroid, can i use this one (ofcourse i know that the heat will be a bit higher and the efficiency also will be a bit on the low side) ?
If i use the torroid, i make a bridge rectifier and then some caps and regs to flatten the voltage. Now i only have to use the both outputs after the regs and not connect it to the ground, so i have a floating psu ? Am I right with this ?
I've got a 10VA 0-30V torroid, can i use this one (ofcourse i know that the heat will be a bit higher and the efficiency also will be a bit on the low side) ?
If i use the torroid, i make a bridge rectifier and then some caps and regs to flatten the voltage. Now i only have to use the both outputs after the regs and not connect it to the ground, so i have a floating psu ? Am I right with this ?
Hi,
The downside is the lowish voltage gain possible before distortion increases due to exceeding the voltage compliance of the 1541. If you use no more than 100R you should be OK from what I've read into it. If you want to keep it passive you could use a transformer after the IV to step up the voltage but keep the ratio low or you will increase distortion quite a bit. Your amp may have enough gain without a further gain stage.
To make a psu floating make sure there is no reference to ground. Batteries make a truly floating supply. Depending on the transformer to some degree you will have primary to secondary coupling capacitance. Electrostatic shielding between windings and or avoiding a tranny that does not have the coils wound on top of each other will help avoid this capacitive coupling. Having said this the input on the 26v supply has a good ripple rejection ratio anyway so a standard e core may be just fine. It will also depend on how dirty your mains supply is.
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The downside is the lowish voltage gain possible before distortion increases due to exceeding the voltage compliance of the 1541. If you use no more than 100R you should be OK from what I've read into it. If you want to keep it passive you could use a transformer after the IV to step up the voltage but keep the ratio low or you will increase distortion quite a bit. Your amp may have enough gain without a further gain stage.
To make a psu floating make sure there is no reference to ground. Batteries make a truly floating supply. Depending on the transformer to some degree you will have primary to secondary coupling capacitance. Electrostatic shielding between windings and or avoiding a tranny that does not have the coils wound on top of each other will help avoid this capacitive coupling. Having said this the input on the 26v supply has a good ripple rejection ratio anyway so a standard e core may be just fine. It will also depend on how dirty your mains supply is.
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First of all my apologies because these questions will be answered in the thread, but I am unable to read all the posts to find the answers.
I am the very happy owner of a V2 and I have the following questions.
1. Is V3 power equal to V2? (+ -26v and 8v)
2. In addition to the obvious 50Hz enhancement, are there sound differences between V2 and V3?
3. Is it possible to buy a populated pcb? what would be the price? If not possible, are there still pcb available? What is the price?
Thanks
I am the very happy owner of a V2 and I have the following questions.
1. Is V3 power equal to V2? (+ -26v and 8v)
2. In addition to the obvious 50Hz enhancement, are there sound differences between V2 and V3?
3. Is it possible to buy a populated pcb? what would be the price? If not possible, are there still pcb available? What is the price?
Thanks
The V3 board uses a floating 26v and a grounded 5v for power.
I cannot answer your second question, but as for the third, Ryan is out of V3boards and is going to rework some things to make it more DIY builder friendly in the power supply section. At some point he may possibly do another GB. If he does another run, then yes, he would probably build you one.
If you, or anyone else is reading this thread, please chime in if you want him to do another run.
Cheers,
Greg