Hi again Dave,
I’ve now been running my A11MS with the cat6 cables for a few days & they do sound very nice indeed, I can’t honestly say they are sounding better than they were with the the previous VanDamme cables but, I know from experience, i have to live with new equipment/changes to my system for a while to fully understand what I’m hearing.
I’ve now got the sound of my system to a level that I just love listening to it for hours on end & when something is wrong,(to my personal taste) it will start to reveal itself & irritate me after a while.
If those Cat6 based cables do, as your measurement seemed to show, add series resistance they will change the bass performance and also alter the frequency response as they interact with the driver...
I can’t recall what boxes Jason has his A11ms in, but if it is FHXL or Pensil, where the box dominates, effect is smaller than in a more tightly tuned BR.
dave
dave
They are actively high passed at 250hz, 4th order LR, with the digital xo built into my Lyngdorf amp & in sealed boxes.
Jason,
I am also keen on building sealed 5.5L boxes with the Alpair 11ms that will be used in a FAST system and mounted on-wall. I've been reading about your satisfaction with this configuration on this amazing forum and was wondering if you damped or filled your boxes with anything? Thank you for any help or tips you can provide.
edit: Also, unfortunately I will need to crossover mine much lower than 250hz, likely less than 150hz, as my subs can't really go higher than 200hz. Do you think that would be an issue?
Hank
I am also keen on building sealed 5.5L boxes with the Alpair 11ms that will be used in a FAST system and mounted on-wall. I've been reading about your satisfaction with this configuration on this amazing forum and was wondering if you damped or filled your boxes with anything? Thank you for any help or tips you can provide.
edit: Also, unfortunately I will need to crossover mine much lower than 250hz, likely less than 150hz, as my subs can't really go higher than 200hz. Do you think that would be an issue?
Hank
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Hi Hank,
That sounds like a great plan & I’m looking forward to hearing how you get on, have you experimented previously with wideband drivers?
I don’t think you’ll have a problem crossing them lower, I ran mine once from my AVreceiver with Audyssey, when running the setup, it finds the -3db point of the speakers, from memory, I think it set my A11 at 90hz.
My A11 cabinets are made from a combination of 18mm mdf + 12mm ply, fibreglass & flexible tile adhesive! No science to my method, I just wanted an irregular shape at the rear & a solid inert cabinet, they are fixed to the wall with very solid Konig & Meyer brackets.
Thanks for asking. I currently run a pair of full range Gallo A'Divas mounted on wall above a pair of Gallo TR-3D subs (all sealed as well). They're crossed over at 117 hz BW24 with a MiniDSP DDRC-24 feeding the subs in stereo. I also have a pair of Talisman speakers from Serene that opened my eyes to the clarity of full range drivers. The A’Divas being 3 inch drivers seem weak at times, especially with the lower midrange. The subs and Dirac help but I'm really curious to what the 6" A11s can do especially with clarity in movies as I have a stereo only TV setup.
That’s great that your A11s measured -3db at 90 hz! That’s exactly what I’m hoping for.
That’s quite a mix of materials in your build. I’m just planning on using 12 mm baltic birch ply all around and mounting with a pair of BTech BT77 side clamp wall mounts. So it doesn’t look like you used any fill or lining of any kind and I can just keep the box empty?
This is my first DIY speaker project after reading up on this forum and other sites for a bit. I was glad to have found you did successfully pretty much exactly what I'm thinking. I’ve never even repaired a speaker so I’m a bit anxious. But my brother is handy and has decent tools so I think I’m set to order everything. This should be fun. I’ll definitely be reporting back (but it might take me a while!).
My cabinets are lined on the sides & back with automotive trunk-liner, (flexible carpet) I used it to form up the shape of the sides/back & lay up the fibreglass onto. I also have a little polyfill inside.
I originally rattled together some basic mdf test boxes & they still sounded great in those 🙂
I can’t wait to hear what you think of them.
Wow, Peter, your build sounds very interesting. Good to know your basic MDF build sounded great as well.
Also did you feel the need to flush mount the Alpair A11 driver? It doesn't look necessary to me. Thanks.
Also did you feel the need to flush mount the Alpair A11 driver? It doesn't look necessary to me. Thanks.
With the new basket syou can get away with no rebate — you do need to reliev ethe cutout on the back-side.
dave
dave
Thanks Dave I had to research it as I'm new at this but I think I get the idea. Looks like I'll need a router or something like that.
Jason, thanks for posting the pictures as it's very helpful. I was simply thinking of chamfering a 45 degree angle all the way around on the inside of the driver hole. But I take it your chamfering design is because the screws needed to hold the Alpair 11 are set at the outside edge of the driver.
Also, your false wall array of woofers is so very impressive. I'm thinking this is why you set your cross over point higher and get great sound. Makes me think I should consider building subwoofers as well!
Also, your false wall array of woofers is so very impressive. I'm thinking this is why you set your cross over point higher and get great sound. Makes me think I should consider building subwoofers as well!
Hi Hank, yeah, the chamfering design is just to leave a bit more material around the screws.
Yes again, the bass drivers/arrays were chosen in the hope that they would blend well at the higher crossover point, I wanted as much of the bass spectrum as possible coming from the bass arrays & I’d read in the past about the advantages of vertical arrays.
At least you already have some subs to try with your A11MS, if they don’t keep you satisfied, I’d highly recommend making your own 🙂
planning first build here. there's a bass reflex plan (Ibelin 0v82) linked in markaudio site, but currently looking for a slim classic golden ration for the a7ms. would it go with older (dKal-El70.3/dMar-Ken7.3)?
How do you mean “go with”? From my experience the sonic signatures of the several driver models you mentioned are different enough that they’d be distinguishable from each other in terms of timbre matching or dynamics & soundstage presentation. For example, I’d certainly endeavour to use the same model across the front row of a multi-channel home theatre set-up, although circumstances often preclude using identical enclosures there - or certainly always have for me.
This is a reference to Markaudio's basket, I've not heard of this issue, has anyone?
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Not something i have seen over hundreds of drivers.
You can overtighten the screws (realatively easier), crack the bezel, and warp the whole thing (harder).
dave
You can overtighten the screws (realatively easier), crack the bezel, and warp the whole thing (harder).
dave