Hello,
I received my two kit boards today!
Of course, I already assembled one 3 board kit.
I did not installed the heat sinks yet.
It looks great!
I will post some photos when I'll have all connected to my dam1941 dac.
A simple question :
In the manual, it says Rf 0.22-0.47R 1W for positive section.
What about the negative section? Do I live Rf empty?
Oh, what is the replacement for those PF5102?
Thanks.
I received my two kit boards today!
Of course, I already assembled one 3 board kit.
I did not installed the heat sinks yet.
It looks great!
I will post some photos when I'll have all connected to my dam1941 dac.
A simple question :
In the manual, it says Rf 0.22-0.47R 1W for positive section.
What about the negative section? Do I live Rf empty?
Oh, what is the replacement for those PF5102?
Thanks.
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Hi Salas,
I am a lucky guy.
Three fets are missing to a fourth board. I have two PFs and ONE J113, this one selected to 10mA! It's an extra fet from a Korg Nutube from Nelson Pass.
No problem in using these three, even if they are two PFs and one J113...right?
By the way, in the Bilb board there are "A" and "K" holes, for leds.
K is pos and A is neg...right or not right?
Salas, thank you for being there all the time with the fast and right answers for us. That's a lot of generosity.
I am a lucky guy.
Three fets are missing to a fourth board. I have two PFs and ONE J113, this one selected to 10mA! It's an extra fet from a Korg Nutube from Nelson Pass.
No problem in using these three, even if they are two PFs and one J113...right?
By the way, in the Bilb board there are "A" and "K" holes, for leds.
K is pos and A is neg...right or not right?
Salas, thank you for being there all the time with the fast and right answers for us. That's a lot of generosity.
You are welcome.
K is cathode A is anode. You solder the analogous LED pins to those pads as indicated.
Yes you can mix the PF5102s with a J113. For higher than 10mA IDSS J113 samples the source pin connected resistor value better be increased. To moderate the running current. Not in your case though, the standard 270 Ohm is still enough. See post #1559 for details about using J113.
K is cathode A is anode. You solder the analogous LED pins to those pads as indicated.
Yes you can mix the PF5102s with a J113. For higher than 10mA IDSS J113 samples the source pin connected resistor value better be increased. To moderate the running current. Not in your case though, the standard 270 Ohm is still enough. See post #1559 for details about using J113.
Ok, first experience :
One pos bib, 24volts @150mA for a RIAA preamp, Boozound Jfets, MM.
This pre amp draws 50mA Max max.
AC diodes are almost cold. They are 8A 600V Soft Rec ( Moser, MSR860G).
With a nice, not very big heatsink.
Everythink works perfectly, the heatsink is just a litle bit warm. R1 is 4R.
Transformer 18V secondary. Success!!
Second experience :
5volts pos Bilb, @700mA, R1 is 866mA.
This is intended to work with a 9volt sec trasformer but I tried with a 18Volt secondary, 80VA. At 5volts the leds look like the sunshine. At 10 volts the leds have a normal power/light. It gets incredibly hot! More than my USSA classA amp. I am not worried, because I think this may be caused by the 18volt secondary from the Talema.
The heatsink is very big. In his configuration I should have a classA amp châssis.
This board has 8QT100 diodes in AC. They get HOOOOOT!!! Fancy diodes. Are them appropriate here?
I will try the 9Vsecondary later. I have to take it out from a Schumann resonator.
One pos bib, 24volts @150mA for a RIAA preamp, Boozound Jfets, MM.
This pre amp draws 50mA Max max.
AC diodes are almost cold. They are 8A 600V Soft Rec ( Moser, MSR860G).
With a nice, not very big heatsink.
Everythink works perfectly, the heatsink is just a litle bit warm. R1 is 4R.
Transformer 18V secondary. Success!!
Second experience :
5volts pos Bilb, @700mA, R1 is 866mA.
This is intended to work with a 9volt sec trasformer but I tried with a 18Volt secondary, 80VA. At 5volts the leds look like the sunshine. At 10 volts the leds have a normal power/light. It gets incredibly hot! More than my USSA classA amp. I am not worried, because I think this may be caused by the 18volt secondary from the Talema.
The heatsink is very big. In his configuration I should have a classA amp châssis.
This board has 8QT100 diodes in AC. They get HOOOOOT!!! Fancy diodes. Are them appropriate here?
I will try the 9Vsecondary later. I have to take it out from a Schumann resonator.
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You must have had nearly 20V at 0.9A on M1 with the 18VAC transfo for just 5V output. Nearly 20W dissipation(!). Plus nearly 5W from M2 if unloaded. It is like a class A amp indeed. The LEDS went very bright is not a good sign. Maybe M1 got too hot and popped. Check VGS on it and Vbe on the BC transistors.
PCB
For salas
I want to build the Salas TLSV1.3 Ultra BiB shunt power supply. I need 2 PCB triple boards. therefore I want to order the PCBs I would like to know the cost including the shipment. . I pay with paypal.
My mail is: vegasi@tiscali.it.
Regards virginio
For salas
I want to build the Salas TLSV1.3 Ultra BiB shunt power supply. I need 2 PCB triple boards. therefore I want to order the PCBs I would like to know the cost including the shipment. . I pay with paypal.
My mail is: vegasi@tiscali.it.
Regards virginio
Send me a private message, I can get you the boards.
The GB forum is here.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/322596-gb-salas-sslv1-3-ultra-bib.html#post5432184
Not beautiful!
M2 - 1V/5V
M1 - 0,1/5,9V
Q1 - 0,56/5,7V
Q2 - 0/0,6V
Q3 - 0,6/0,3V
Q4 - 3,3 - 0,5V
All must be changed, right?
Vgs is measured between Mosfet pins 1-3
Vbe is measured between pins 2 and 3 in BC transistors
Bridge diodes may show around 1V forward voltage drop between each one's pins. If they are running high current they may demand sinking. Especially when supplying a capacitor that is continually being replenished for delivery to a constant current load.
Vbe is measured between pins 2 and 3 in BC transistors
Bridge diodes may show around 1V forward voltage drop between each one's pins. If they are running high current they may demand sinking. Especially when supplying a capacitor that is continually being replenished for delivery to a constant current load.
Fine!!!
M2, 3,95V ; M1, 5,73v ; Q1 and Q4, 0,56 ; Q2V and Q3, 6,2V !!!
Bridge diodes are a litle warm, completely normal.
Shunt is outputting 5volts.
The heatsink is warm.
Seams that everything is ok.
This was one more lesson for me.
Now, testing the other 2 remaining shnts, neg and pos. With 9volts secondaries!!!
Next post. Tomorrow, because I have to drill in the heatsinks and cut them.
Thanks again Salas.
M2, 3,95V ; M1, 5,73v ; Q1 and Q4, 0,56 ; Q2V and Q3, 6,2V !!!
Bridge diodes are a litle warm, completely normal.
Shunt is outputting 5volts.
The heatsink is warm.
Seams that everything is ok.
This was one more lesson for me.
Now, testing the other 2 remaining shnts, neg and pos. With 9volts secondaries!!!
Next post. Tomorrow, because I have to drill in the heatsinks and cut them.
Thanks again Salas.
The remaining shunts are tuned to draw 200mA.
This is more than three time less than the one that is tuned to 700mA. Voltage is the same.
This one has a big heatsink and it gets just warm, may be 30 degrees, acceptable.
I am sure that this calculations are not completely "linear", I mean not necessarily 100% proporcional, many values are not accurate, etc, but one half of this heatsink must be enough for each one of those two shunts drawing 200mA.
I would cut the identical heatsink in two, for those two shunts drawing 200mA.
Hope I'm being clear...but never mind, I will try it and put my fingers on it!
This is more than three time less than the one that is tuned to 700mA. Voltage is the same.
This one has a big heatsink and it gets just warm, may be 30 degrees, acceptable.
I am sure that this calculations are not completely "linear", I mean not necessarily 100% proporcional, many values are not accurate, etc, but one half of this heatsink must be enough for each one of those two shunts drawing 200mA.
I would cut the identical heatsink in two, for those two shunts drawing 200mA.
Hope I'm being clear...but never mind, I will try it and put my fingers on it!
The M1 CCS works with low voltage margin also, but not optimally. Proper choice for 24VDC output is 22VAC transformer. Next, for 26VDC output, a 24VAC transformer is good choice. Calculate as described in the guide:
"Transformers
You should choose enough secondary voltage for the rectified DC across C1 (Vin) to reach 5V higher (or more) than your Vout setting. Rectified DC=(VAC*1.414)-1.4V diodes drop. Use 9VAC for 5-7Vout, 12VAC for 8-10Vout, 15VAC for 11-15Vout, 18VAC for 16-19Vout and so on and so forth up to 33VAC max secondary not to burn a JFET. The reg works even with less than 5V difference because CCmA weakening starts only at Vin-Vout <1.7V for ~200 CCmA settings. At 600mA CC it starts weakening at Vin-Vout <2.5V. But more voltage space allows for mains play and for better M1's parasitic capacitance."
"Transformers
You should choose enough secondary voltage for the rectified DC across C1 (Vin) to reach 5V higher (or more) than your Vout setting. Rectified DC=(VAC*1.414)-1.4V diodes drop. Use 9VAC for 5-7Vout, 12VAC for 8-10Vout, 15VAC for 11-15Vout, 18VAC for 16-19Vout and so on and so forth up to 33VAC max secondary not to burn a JFET. The reg works even with less than 5V difference because CCmA weakening starts only at Vin-Vout <1.7V for ~200 CCmA settings. At 600mA CC it starts weakening at Vin-Vout <2.5V. But more voltage space allows for mains play and for better M1's parasitic capacitance."