More reading and my questions are answered. It looks like I will be choosing the Alpair 10p as the ideal driver. It can go pretty low and models a decent sized cabinet. They are also relatively inexpensive for their build quality. I think that the qts at 0.33 is a bit low so I will boost it a bit in the Bib calc and go with that Vb. Then I will plug in its TS values into the Website that GM provided to calculate series resistance to add to their input. I will be running a gainclone, which has no or very small output impedance of it's own, so I don't think I need to adjust for that, right? I will probably build/stuff the boxes similarly to how Jim Shearer built his earlier in the thread. Thanks for everyones help on this.
Hmm, as many times as I've posted the following in one form or other, apparently never in this thread........
In designing/building high efficiency [HE] and/or acoustically too large cabs, it's a good plan to dial it in in-room with a [cheap] 25 ohm pot, then replace it with a high quality fixed power resistor or at least a tapped one.
This also serves to preload the amp against operating in its non linear region where not a lot of power is required at the app's average SPL [most consumer 'FR' driver, compression horn systems].
GM
In designing/building high efficiency [HE] and/or acoustically too large cabs, it's a good plan to dial it in in-room with a [cheap] 25 ohm pot, then replace it with a high quality fixed power resistor or at least a tapped one.
This also serves to preload the amp against operating in its non linear region where not a lot of power is required at the app's average SPL [most consumer 'FR' driver, compression horn systems].
GM
A10P (A10PeN) is one of my favourite drivers. Currently listening to a set in the proto 17 litre Mar-Ken10pT.
dave
Indeed the 10P & 10.3 work very well in a range of enclosures much more domestic friendly than a BIB. I'm currently running a trio of them in front row of 7.1 system; Scott Lindgren's Pensils for L&R mains, and one of Dave's "MarKen" family for compact centre channel - where surround system bass management easily deals with what would otherwise be a compromise of the bottom octave that usually accompanies reduced enclosure volumes.
While I have no idea as to the actual damping factor of the amp stage of my Onkyo receiver, it's probably much higher than any of the tube amps I've ever owned, but even when used in direct stereo bypass with no sub channel running I don't find the Pensils lacking in the bottom. Of course there's a lot of factors in that particular calculus, and YMMV.
While I have no idea as to the actual damping factor of the amp stage of my Onkyo receiver, it's probably much higher than any of the tube amps I've ever owned, but even when used in direct stereo bypass with no sub channel running I don't find the Pensils lacking in the bottom. Of course there's a lot of factors in that particular calculus, and YMMV.
My wife surprised me by preferring a full height BIB to more standard size floorstanding or stand-mounted loudspeakers. The big BIB is visually cleaner and continuous. It felt cool, manly and excessive to build BIBs, but when my wife said this I knew she was right. There, it's a girly speaker.
Yeah, esthetically it is kind of cool to have a couple of large cleanly designed monoliths off to the side of the room and out of the way. It doesn't hurt that they can sound so good, simple build, cheap too Madisound is having a sale on the 10p. ;-)
Good evening, I read all the pages but my English is very basic and often one word can change the meaning of everything. Recapitulating: bib is calculated with the excel sheet, with only three values, FR, VAS, QTR. Bib is a project made to place the speakers in the corners and must end near the ceiling, mine is 3.20 meters so it is not optimal, I think probably better with an inverted BIB. Give me confirmation of this data?
Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas
In Mr Cain's photographs of his speakers, the drivers sit forward of the baffles in a circular surround. Can anyone advise if this is for an audio purpose or is it aesthetics?
Cheers, Wayne
Cheers, Wayne
This was partly aesthetic but the shapes of these extra baffles also slightly changed the sound. Have a look here at some measurements.
BIB Calculator | Speaker Projects by Zilla
BIB Calculator | Speaker Projects by Zilla
Right, done right for acoustics it needs to be fairly wide with 26-30" the norm to compensate for baffle step loss [BSC], so TC's and similar are mostly cosmetic.
GM
GM
The distance behind the driver and the internal divdier can be a bit tight.
The extra bafffle helps to bring the driver a little forward and open up the space.
SB
The extra bafffle helps to bring the driver a little forward and open up the space.
SB
Hi Scot don’t know much about the BIB, BUT the FE166en works great in my FHXL’s as it did with the Abby’s I built years ago but lost in my house fire(2011) . Anyway if I had a larger room i’d probably build the BIB’s . The FE166 seems a better compromise to the other drivers recommended for the FHXL , IMHO......right or wrong........
A better word than better is likely “different”. ie one can change the personality of any Frugel-Horn by changing the driver. FH is a chameleon.
dave
.....or just adding some series resistance, so recommend using a cheap 25 ohm pot for fine tuning any box alignment in-room, then replacing it with an appropriate gauge speaker wire and/or a grid of small, low tolerance resistors to get ~exactly the same value.
GM
GM
SHow me how to hook it up , I’m game for any help that will give MA drivers some high frequencies. I have most of the 10’s/11ms
You are absolutely right Dave because the Mark Audio drivers are a more refined sounding driver in their range , no question !!!!!