Amp Camp Amp - ACA

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#5,821
For vintage look it could be a faint light bulb behind, red, orange or green glass (not plastic) but I can live without. I hate the powerful blue/red LEDs to look into when listening to musik. I use tape and other ways to cover it so I am not disturbed. For ACA my choice was not to install it at all...….
 
#5,822
My personal preference is to retain the blue, however to not have them mounted to the front, where they can be too bright, but instead just let the blue flood the inside of the case and let it come out the vent holes.

In my SP-10 PSU -

WaynePSUdark.jpg
 
#5,824
6L6 said:
My personal preference is to retain the blue, however to not have them mounted to the front, where they can be too bright, but instead just let the blue flood the inside of the case and let it come out the vent holes...
Click to expand...
This looks great!

I was hoping to do a 'clear window' in front of my case to allow the blue-flooded interior to be able to be seen from the outside, but the window's view ended up not being that great. Perhaps playing with the position of the leds?

Its a nice idea!!! Thanks,
Rafa.
 
#5,825
Tried a search, but couldn’t find any word on the 1.6 guide. I’ve finished the pcb’s and holding out on the back panel. I’m a sucker for very guided step by step instructions.

Also are people finding it better to attach the pcbs to the heat sink before wiring to the back panel, or wait until it’s all wired up and then attach to heat sync?
 
#5,826
Azookey said:
Tried a search, but couldn’t find any word on the 1.6 guide. I’ve finished the pcb’s and holding out on the back panel. I’m a sucker for very guided step by step instructions.

Also are people finding it better to attach the pcbs to the heat sink before wiring to the back panel, or wait until it’s all wired up and then attach to heat sync?
Click to expand...

I had no problem by attaching the pcbs to the heat sinks, building the case but not attaching the top and bottom (and leaving the screws a little loose), then wiring in the front and back panels. It makes it easier to see exactly how much wiring to use.
 
#5,827
Well it looks fantastic!

701042d1535829735-amp-camp-amp-aca-db2aa460-2efd-4687-b5ab-8fc4964c8d77-jpg


But it doesn't seem to address using the amp in parallel mode, where with the switch in "Stereo" mode you just use a "Y" connector to feed the signal to both input RCA jacks, and then run the speaker outputs from both + speaker posts to the positive speaker terminals. And the outputs from both - speaker posts to the negative speaker terminals. Easy Peasy. IMHO that's an important option as it can be done with any preamp. So there is the"2ch Stereo" option, and the "Mono-Bridged" option, and the "Mono-Parallel" option as Nelson has explained.

Maybe use a rectangle with square corners around the text saying "& Mono-Parallel" below the "Stereo" text to indicate that for parallel use the switch should be in that position

As far as the XLR connector goes, we tried to make it so it can be mounted inside or outside the chassis-you get to choose. Just choose whichever look you prefer, there's no advantage to either/


JeffreyD said:
I can’t wait... wanted to see how the back panel looks with mounted hardware.
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#5,828
Resistor R13 controls the brightness to the LEDs. It's 10k ohms stock. If the LEDs are too bright you can put a higher resistance there to dim them. What I don't know is what resistance makes them go out entirely, which of course people probably don't want. Could someone experiment and report back? Might require putting 2 resistors in series.

Mark
 
#5,830
Variac said:
Well it looks fantastic!


But it doesn't seem to address using the amp in parallel mode, where with the switch in "Stereo" mode you just use a "Y" connector to feed the signal to both input RCA jacks, and then run the speaker outputs from both + speaker posts to the positive speaker terminals. And the outputs from both - speaker posts to the negative speaker terminals. Easy Peasy. IMHO that's an important option as it can be done with any preamp. So there is the"2ch Stereo" option, and the "Mono-Bridged" option, and the "Mono-Parallel" option as Nelson has explained.


As far as the XLR connector goes, we tried to make it so it can be mounted inside or outside the chassis-you get to choose. Just choose whichever look you prefer, there's no advantage to either/
Click to expand...

I don't think there's any problem... pseudo-bridged (switch in MONO position) means that signal is fed to white RCA, and then picked-up from that side negative speaker terminal, fed to the switch, signal reduced by the gain amount, and then sent to red RCA....???
 
#5,831
Jason said:
Yeah that would be because they aren't published anywhere yet. One foot in front of the other and all that.... Here's the 2Ux200, 2Ux300, and proposed 3U Franken-UMS. All this can be considered "unofficial", but as time allows, it should all become "official".
Click to expand...

Hi Jason,

I was going to get DISSIPANTE 4U, 400mm deep. That chassis has two 4U X 200mm heatsinks per each side, i.e. a total of 4 heatsinks per chassis.

Can I order that combo and "upgrade" it to be a UMS compliant, i.e. can each of those 4 heatsinks (4U X 200mm) be UMS-pre-drilled?

Thanks!
Nick
 
#5,832
Extreme_Boky said:
Hi Jason,

I was going to get DISSIPANTE 4U, 400mm deep. That chassis has two 4U X 200mm heatsinks per each side, i.e. a total of 4 heatsinks per chassis.

Can I order that combo and "upgrade" it to be a UMS compliant, i.e. can each of those 4 heatsinks (4U X 200mm) be UMS-pre-drilled?

Thanks!
Nick
Click to expand...

You certainly can. The 400mm heatsink is comprised of 2x4Ux200 heatsinks per side, so you have 4 heatsinks. We currently only sell 4Ux300 and 5Ux400 UMS heatsinks, so you'll need to have those drilled and tapped as a custom job (and you could get any holes, anywhere you wanted). The service fee for that is USD50 per heatsink, so $200 in total. You could go for a 4Ux300 deep which would be one piece per side, and so the customization fee would be half, at $100 for the two pieces.
 
#5,834
RafaPolit said:
Looks great Jaaptina!!! How was the matching with the WXC-50? If they paired well, you have a great combo there! Any need to up the gain or were the default +-0 (2V max) setting enough for your listening target volume?

I'm curious.

Congrats,
Rafa.
Click to expand...

Surprisingly enough volume using my Penaudio speakers (sensitivity 86dB). Even with gain setting on default. Measured peak levels over 80dB at my sitting position while playing Yello La Habanera. Those 8 Watts must be powerWatts 🙂

The ACA deservers a better streamer/dac/pre though. The Yamaha is a nice all in one box solution but it can't compete with a dedicate streamer like Sonore microRendu and dedicated dac.
 
#5,838
#5,840
for parallel , that's no brainer :

-parallel inputs (GNDs already shorted , short hots , either with Y RCA cable , or U link pushed in 2 & 3 XLR )

-parallel outputs (GNDs already shorted , remember - these are red ones , also you need to short together hots (black ones) ..... use short wire for that)

- output is same as with regular connection - one speaker wire on Red post , second speaker wire on Black post
 
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