Soon i will start on resistor "sound" project lol.
Collecting them took a long time... but i got almost all vishay SFR25 series, MRF4 series and:
Russian non-magnetic oldschool MLT series, and vishay new MBB0207 series..
100's of old school toshiba outputs and small signal transistors.
8pcs of PCB's, regular 97/3cu solder
My last mistake for NAP140 was too thick... huge aluminum plate...
This time i will decrease heatksink mass drastically, while improving heat transfer function from outputs to heatsink and its sorrounding case.
Collecting them took a long time... but i got almost all vishay SFR25 series, MRF4 series and:
Russian non-magnetic oldschool MLT series, and vishay new MBB0207 series..
100's of old school toshiba outputs and small signal transistors.
8pcs of PCB's, regular 97/3cu solder
My last mistake for NAP140 was too thick... huge aluminum plate...
This time i will decrease heatksink mass drastically, while improving heat transfer function from outputs to heatsink and its sorrounding case.
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You will likely be comparing similar MF resistors in separate sighted and uncontrolled listening tests. Those problems may not phase audiophiles but differences that are small are easily confused or forgotten in the period and activities between tests.
I don't know whether you expect to find clear evidence there but if you want to start with something that has a chance of proving something more than differences in the build and test procedure, perhaps you could start by looking at the original Naim (a.k.a the "bolt down" series) models and their carbon film with WW power resistors?
I don't know whether you expect to find clear evidence there but if you want to start with something that has a chance of proving something more than differences in the build and test procedure, perhaps you could start by looking at the original Naim (a.k.a the "bolt down" series) models and their carbon film with WW power resistors?
Hi Peeps,
I want to build a Naim Clone. Dont mind Aliexpress or Ebay.
What do you recommend?
Thanks lads
I want to build a Naim Clone. Dont mind Aliexpress or Ebay.
What do you recommend?
Thanks lads
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I found this guy on Aliexpress and he sells other quality stuff so hoping his Naim clone stuff is good too.
What do you think of these below?
GZLOZONE Assembled Black Box Clone Naim NAP200 Amplifier Board DIY Power Amp 75W 75W
GZLOZONE Assembled Black Box Clone Naim NAP200 Amplifier Board DIY Power Amp 75W+75W-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
GZLOZONE One Pair Assembeld NCC200 Power Amplifier Board Base On UK NAIM NAP250 / 135 Amp
GZLOZONE One Pair Assembeld NCC200 Power Amplifier Board Base On UK NAIM NAP250 / 135 Amp-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
ZEROZONE Assembled 2-Channel NAC152 preamp board base NAIM NAC152XS preamplifier
ZEROZONE Assembled 2 Channel NAC152 preamp board base NAIM NAC152XS preamplifier-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Also is there a preferred toroidal brand?
Thanks lads
What do you think of these below?
GZLOZONE Assembled Black Box Clone Naim NAP200 Amplifier Board DIY Power Amp 75W 75W
GZLOZONE Assembled Black Box Clone Naim NAP200 Amplifier Board DIY Power Amp 75W+75W-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
GZLOZONE One Pair Assembeld NCC200 Power Amplifier Board Base On UK NAIM NAP250 / 135 Amp
GZLOZONE One Pair Assembeld NCC200 Power Amplifier Board Base On UK NAIM NAP250 / 135 Amp-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
ZEROZONE Assembled 2-Channel NAC152 preamp board base NAIM NAC152XS preamplifier
ZEROZONE Assembled 2 Channel NAC152 preamp board base NAIM NAC152XS preamplifier-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Also is there a preferred toroidal brand?
Thanks lads
Are you starting with Just the PCB, PCB + generic parts, or finished PCB assembly? Depending on your kit experience, you may want to consider a few likely problems that I've had or read about in recent times at least.
The fanciest, most expensive and IMO best kit by far, is the Caowei NAP 200 kit. It has good substitute parts that meet the requirements and for the first time, the layout is correct in all details of the meticulous Naim PCB design. Bear in mind that the final results are always down to using the right semis. Some are critical and it also requires a thick, closed aluminium case for cooling and at least a 400VA transformer with dual 28V-0-28VAC windings. That alone may be quite expensive as it means a custom build unless you import that too. Sadly also, the Sanken LAPT output transistors have just become obsolete. Larger NAP models all work from +/-40V rails but the real NAP140 works from +/- 34V rails which could be approximated with a 25-0-25VAC toroid of 200-250VA. At least that can be an inexpensive, off-the shelf purchase.
There is a copy of the NAP200 kit by ZeroZone which is cheaper but if it's anything like their NAP140 kit, doesn't work correctly because for some reason, they have altered resistor values from the NAP250 schematic to rationalised values. (yes that same wrong schematic has been used by all the clone sellers for years) Using this board and following the silk screen parts values, alters the circuit operation and prevents correct bias setting as I found on finished boards and amplifiers built with ZeroZone boards too. An under-biased amp sounds awful and the first example brought to me for checking, sounded like a vinyl disc playing with a dirty needle
So much for product testing and quality control!
There has been a flush of new kit releases recently; allegedly NAP 250, NAP180, NAP160 as well as others but judging by the components included and board sizes, this is just sales pitch. The topology is common to all models and it's about all you could say was original but the rest is just a cheap single PCB with generic parts that would work in a fashion - what low powered fashion though, I dunno
.
Beware of other shortcuts taken by these guys. Beware also of fake semis and poor copies that abound on clone and parts sellers' sites. If you want a clone that deserves the title, it's along road with a lot of reading and checking of specs and facts to do before you throw $$$ at some seller. Just ask member Rensli here, about how long it takes to get worthwhile results. One of the cheapest beginnings is the H140 kit by HifiDIY. The parts are wrong but that's relatively easily fixed by fitting original parts such as the critical VAS and current source transistor types ZTX653/753 then perhaps drivers MJE243/253. Now things begin to sound interesting 😉
In the UK only, you can get very pricey NCC200 clone modules by Avondale Audio which do work very well with the addition of a case and power supply. They are allegedly improved versions of Naim's design, using mainly commonly available components which does results in a different sound quality. This might be a good thing according to owners but in all cases, trying to clone products to hear their sound quality without any reference more than the schematic, is just self delusion.
Otherwise, you cannot know what it should sound like and I've never heard any build (among dozens of examples from different kit suppliers) that when assembled as it came, bore a respectable likeness to an original NAP140 or any other original models I've heard. I suspect that only with the real deal to compare and patient tweaking of components and layout, can you bring your clone close enough. 'definitely worth a try, though 🙂
The fanciest, most expensive and IMO best kit by far, is the Caowei NAP 200 kit. It has good substitute parts that meet the requirements and for the first time, the layout is correct in all details of the meticulous Naim PCB design. Bear in mind that the final results are always down to using the right semis. Some are critical and it also requires a thick, closed aluminium case for cooling and at least a 400VA transformer with dual 28V-0-28VAC windings. That alone may be quite expensive as it means a custom build unless you import that too. Sadly also, the Sanken LAPT output transistors have just become obsolete. Larger NAP models all work from +/-40V rails but the real NAP140 works from +/- 34V rails which could be approximated with a 25-0-25VAC toroid of 200-250VA. At least that can be an inexpensive, off-the shelf purchase.
There is a copy of the NAP200 kit by ZeroZone which is cheaper but if it's anything like their NAP140 kit, doesn't work correctly because for some reason, they have altered resistor values from the NAP250 schematic to rationalised values. (yes that same wrong schematic has been used by all the clone sellers for years) Using this board and following the silk screen parts values, alters the circuit operation and prevents correct bias setting as I found on finished boards and amplifiers built with ZeroZone boards too. An under-biased amp sounds awful and the first example brought to me for checking, sounded like a vinyl disc playing with a dirty needle
So much for product testing and quality control!There has been a flush of new kit releases recently; allegedly NAP 250, NAP180, NAP160 as well as others but judging by the components included and board sizes, this is just sales pitch. The topology is common to all models and it's about all you could say was original but the rest is just a cheap single PCB with generic parts that would work in a fashion - what low powered fashion though, I dunno
. Beware of other shortcuts taken by these guys. Beware also of fake semis and poor copies that abound on clone and parts sellers' sites. If you want a clone that deserves the title, it's along road with a lot of reading and checking of specs and facts to do before you throw $$$ at some seller. Just ask member Rensli here, about how long it takes to get worthwhile results. One of the cheapest beginnings is the H140 kit by HifiDIY. The parts are wrong but that's relatively easily fixed by fitting original parts such as the critical VAS and current source transistor types ZTX653/753 then perhaps drivers MJE243/253. Now things begin to sound interesting 😉
In the UK only, you can get very pricey NCC200 clone modules by Avondale Audio which do work very well with the addition of a case and power supply. They are allegedly improved versions of Naim's design, using mainly commonly available components which does results in a different sound quality. This might be a good thing according to owners but in all cases, trying to clone products to hear their sound quality without any reference more than the schematic, is just self delusion.
Otherwise, you cannot know what it should sound like and I've never heard any build (among dozens of examples from different kit suppliers) that when assembled as it came, bore a respectable likeness to an original NAP140 or any other original models I've heard. I suspect that only with the real deal to compare and patient tweaking of components and layout, can you bring your clone close enough. 'definitely worth a try, though 🙂
Thanks mate for the great reply.Are you starting with Just the PCB, PCB + generic parts, or finished PCB assembly? Depending on your kit experience, you may want to consider a few likely problems that I've had or read about in recent times at least.
The fanciest, most expensive and IMO best kit by far, is the Caowei NAP 200 kit. It has good substitute parts that meet the requirements and for the first time, the layout is correct in all details of the meticulous Naim PCB design. Bear in mind that the final results are always down to using the right semis. Some are critical and it also requires a thick, closed aluminium case for cooling and at least a 400VA transformer with dual 28V-0-28VAC windings. That alone may be quite expensive as it means a custom build unless you import that too. Sadly also, the Sanken LAPT output transistors have just become obsolete. Larger NAP models all work from +/-40V rails but the real NAP140 works from +/- 34V rails which could be approximated with a 25-0-25VAC toroid of 200-250VA. At least that can be an inexpensive, off-the shelf purchase.
There is a copy of the NAP200 kit by ZeroZone which is cheaper but if it's anything like their NAP140 kit, doesn't work correctly because for some reason, they have altered resistor values from the NAP250 schematic to rationalised values. (yes that same wrong schematic has been used by all the clone sellers for years) Using this board and following the silk screen parts values, alters the circuit operation and prevents correct bias setting as I found on finished boards and amplifiers built with ZeroZone boards too. An under-biased amp sounds awful and the first example brought to me for checking, sounded like a vinyl disc playing with a dirty needle
There has been a flush of new kit releases recently; allegedly NAP 250, NAP180, NAP160 as well as others but judging by the components included and board sizes, this is just sales pitch. The topology is common to all models and it's about all you could say was original but the rest is just a cheap single PCB with generic parts that would work in a fashion - what low powered fashion though, I dunno
Beware of other shortcuts taken by these guys. Beware also of fake semis and poor copies that abound on clone and parts sellers' sites. If you want a clone that deserves the title, it's along road with a lot of reading and checking of specs and facts to do before you throw $$$ at some seller. Just ask member Rensli here, about how long it takes to get worthwhile results. One of the cheapest beginnings is the H140 kit by HifiDIY. The parts are wrong but that's relatively easily fixed by fitting original parts such as the critical VAS and current source transistor types ZTX653/753 then perhaps drivers MJE243/253. Now things begin to sound interesting 😉
In the UK only, you can get very pricey NCC200 clone modules by Avondale Audio which do work very well with the addition of a case and power supply. They are allegedly improved versions of Naim's design, using mainly commonly available components which does results in a different sound quality. This might be a good thing according to owners but in all cases, trying to clone products to hear their sound quality without any reference more than the schematic, is just self delusion.
Otherwise, you cannot know what it should sound like and I've never heard any build (among dozens of examples from different kit suppliers) that when assembled as it came, bore a respectable likeness to an original NAP140 or any other original models I've heard. I suspect that only with the real deal to compare and patient tweaking of components and layout, can you bring your clone close enough. 'definitely worth a try, though 🙂
For me I'm not chasing a cloned 1:1 sound of the origin as l. I just want something that sounds good that I can enjoy.
For example my mate makes his own Bourbon. He uses Jim Beam wood chips and it tastes great. But it doesnt taste like Jim Beam. But it is very good and cheap and he enjoys making it. But it's no Jim Beam Distillers Master Piece.
I'm in Australia so pretty much everything has to be ordered in I think lol. I have two 25v-0-25v 300VA toroidals sitting around if that helps me.
For me this will be a meticulous build. I will make a nice enclosure from local sourced wood and aluminum I guess.
I'm not super experienced in electronics but have built a lm3886 amplifier with through hole components and some other electronic items. I'm confident in my ability but I dont have an oscilloscope.
I really just want a pointer to where I can buy the bits and not think about what will or wont work (i dont want to have to think lol). If you could help me that would be great!
Thanks mate!
Then, I would avoid messing with discrete part kits like Naim Clones. Most builds seem to wind up mediocre at best because even the factory products require unusual part types and selected, individually matched part sets to sound half decent. That's not simple or cheap and requires more than a multimeter, making lots of informed choices and delving into topics that you probably won't even have considered yet.
A while back, I might have suggested buying a pre-built Naim clone board but my recent debacle with a pair of pre-assembled ZeroZone boards in a fully built amplifier was a disaster - never again.
Other designs are less critical than Naims and if you want a good amplifier that uses premium LAPT transistors too, try LJM's L12-2 amplifier on its own heatsink, if available. 120W and it does sound exceptional for a low-cost discrete amp, out of the box. It's economical, runs very cool and you need do little more than for gainclone. That's why chipamps are great - all the audio performance is preset in a factory built chip - just power up with a simple power supply, quality caps and use a reputable PCB -bingo! ...same as any other well assembled gainclone. Read the review by Calvin in the early part of LJM's thread and here: L12-2, powerful, good, low-cost - calvins-audio-pages.
A while back, I might have suggested buying a pre-built Naim clone board but my recent debacle with a pair of pre-assembled ZeroZone boards in a fully built amplifier was a disaster - never again.
Other designs are less critical than Naims and if you want a good amplifier that uses premium LAPT transistors too, try LJM's L12-2 amplifier on its own heatsink, if available. 120W and it does sound exceptional for a low-cost discrete amp, out of the box. It's economical, runs very cool and you need do little more than for gainclone. That's why chipamps are great - all the audio performance is preset in a factory built chip - just power up with a simple power supply, quality caps and use a reputable PCB -bingo! ...same as any other well assembled gainclone. Read the review by Calvin in the early part of LJM's thread and here: L12-2, powerful, good, low-cost - calvins-audio-pages.
Hi,
Did you mean the cheap clones, around 40$ for stereo ?
Yes, they are disaster... outputs are fake also 😀
Yes, I think that was approximately the original US$ value of the completed boards. The amp though, was delivered complete and "working" for a friend but wasn't usable with a maximum possible bias setting of only 1 -1.5mV across the emitter/collector resistors of either output transistor. That's only about 15% of the recommended setting. Fixing it with the appropriate resistors and pot. in the bias string was a real pain because of the solid copper mains cable wire used to make connections to the PCBs - no connectors anywhere. The output transistors were pulls and looked genuine but ultrafast 2A power diodes were fitted in place of the IN4148 signal diodes 
Aaaagh!
Aaaagh!
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Do you know where one might find a Caowei kit? I've only ever managed to find a NAC152XS kit on eBay but nothing more.
I had this exact problem with the NAP140 kit.. Once the bias resistors were changed to the schematic values, I managed to get the bias around 30mA / 7mV.
I've had experience with the NAP140 bare PCB, PCB kit, PCB assembled and the Fully assembled Amplifier versions from GLOZONE / ZeroZone.
In every case of supplied components, I had to replace probably 80% of the items as they were junk quality or 'preloved'. The 2SC2922s were all either fakes or damaged. In the case of the assembled PCBs and the amplifier, the boards were mostly damage repaired. One of them definitely had an output device fail and the track had burnt back. There was a dodgy track repair on this supposedly new item. The PCBs have a very thin copper layer so it is not easy to remove and replace any components without the track pad lifting off.
Genuine 2SC2922 are still available from Digikey (currently 250 left) for about $10+ each so you'd need to factor that in if you buy a kit. My ZeroZone kit came with the right ZTX and MJE transistors.
To be honest, I'd say that although the end product was fairly decent, I don't think it was worth the hassle of all the rectifications and disappointments. This thread helped me through the build but trawling through 3000+ posts to find the little nuggets needed to get it on the way was pretty time consuming.
If you are after NAIM clones in particular and are up for a bit of messing around, then I wish you luck for your build and happy to try and help if you get stuck. Otherwise, I'd suggest some of the following boards (I'm sure others will have good suggestions too):
APEX AX-14
100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplifier
VSQA
Very simple quasi complimentary MOSFET amplifier
There is also a Big Quasi version on this thread if you are after something a bit higher powered:
Very simple quasi complimentary MOSFET amplifier
These have PCB layouts available and there are BOMs floating around too. Those threads are generally still active as well.
In every case of supplied components, I had to replace probably 80% of the items as they were junk quality or 'preloved'. The 2SC2922s were all either fakes or damaged. In the case of the assembled PCBs and the amplifier, the boards were mostly damage repaired. One of them definitely had an output device fail and the track had burnt back. There was a dodgy track repair on this supposedly new item. The PCBs have a very thin copper layer so it is not easy to remove and replace any components without the track pad lifting off.
Genuine 2SC2922 are still available from Digikey (currently 250 left) for about $10+ each so you'd need to factor that in if you buy a kit. My ZeroZone kit came with the right ZTX and MJE transistors.
To be honest, I'd say that although the end product was fairly decent, I don't think it was worth the hassle of all the rectifications and disappointments. This thread helped me through the build but trawling through 3000+ posts to find the little nuggets needed to get it on the way was pretty time consuming.
If you are after NAIM clones in particular and are up for a bit of messing around, then I wish you luck for your build and happy to try and help if you get stuck. Otherwise, I'd suggest some of the following boards (I'm sure others will have good suggestions too):
APEX AX-14
100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplifier
VSQA
Very simple quasi complimentary MOSFET amplifier
There is also a Big Quasi version on this thread if you are after something a bit higher powered:
Very simple quasi complimentary MOSFET amplifier
These have PCB layouts available and there are BOMs floating around too. Those threads are generally still active as well.
Hi Avtech.
Caowei and many other traders with a good local reputation like LJM for example, live at Taobao which is the big Chinese online platform that Aliexpress and Alibaba are part of. If you Google "Caowei black box NAP200 kit" you'll get the links to Aliexpress and Ebay stores and maybe the NAP 200 pages in this thread too, if you care to read the earlier findings and construction ideas for the kits. Price looks good at the moment but I would still check carefully that they are still able to supply original key semis. Mine were correct apart from the SS audio types being 2N5089 in lieu of unobtanium BC384C or whatever. As long as they have adequate Hfe, Vce and low noise, there are no issues with those substitutes.
2N5089 is still a good choice but you need to factor in a few extras to select on test for an acceptable DC offset - don't try to select for an identical match because NAP LTPs are deliberately unbalanced to generate some extra H2.
I've seen fake MT200s in the past but not in recent years. Certainly, ZeroZone supply gnarled looking pulls but those I received were fine if possibly damaged to a some degree by 2nd breakdown. As explained to me here, a lot of semis, including Sanken's, don't meet the particular manufacturer client specs for their high end audio products and these are sold off at lower prices on the Chinese semiconductor trade markets. They are likely within their marked range and still fine for DIY if you check them out for weight, Ccb, Hfe and the specified current capacity, though the gear for the latter test probably will cost more than it will save you.
Caowei and many other traders with a good local reputation like LJM for example, live at Taobao which is the big Chinese online platform that Aliexpress and Alibaba are part of. If you Google "Caowei black box NAP200 kit" you'll get the links to Aliexpress and Ebay stores and maybe the NAP 200 pages in this thread too, if you care to read the earlier findings and construction ideas for the kits. Price looks good at the moment but I would still check carefully that they are still able to supply original key semis. Mine were correct apart from the SS audio types being 2N5089 in lieu of unobtanium BC384C or whatever. As long as they have adequate Hfe, Vce and low noise, there are no issues with those substitutes.
2N5089 is still a good choice but you need to factor in a few extras to select on test for an acceptable DC offset - don't try to select for an identical match because NAP LTPs are deliberately unbalanced to generate some extra H2.
I've seen fake MT200s in the past but not in recent years. Certainly, ZeroZone supply gnarled looking pulls but those I received were fine if possibly damaged to a some degree by 2nd breakdown. As explained to me here, a lot of semis, including Sanken's, don't meet the particular manufacturer client specs for their high end audio products and these are sold off at lower prices on the Chinese semiconductor trade markets. They are likely within their marked range and still fine for DIY if you check them out for weight, Ccb, Hfe and the specified current capacity, though the gear for the latter test probably will cost more than it will save you.
i think,caowei is down :/
on my side, I almost all gathered to mount my nap 110 (well enough)
from pcb of nap 140 aliexpress / ebay.
I agree with you, only the kit caowei seemed valid for a fair price, the rest (not to mention avondale) is **** ...
for chassis, aluminum only + rectified stainless steel soleplate to add a little
of thermal conduction and physical mass for the output transistor.
I remain old school, styroflex / tantalum / bc / mje / bd and I keep the circuit of "protection".
for the rest, the most important is to take the time to read the information, that's what makes the difference between a transistor amp and a piece of happiness in everyday life
on my side, I almost all gathered to mount my nap 110 (well enough)
from pcb of nap 140 aliexpress / ebay.
I agree with you, only the kit caowei seemed valid for a fair price, the rest (not to mention avondale) is **** ...
for chassis, aluminum only + rectified stainless steel soleplate to add a little
of thermal conduction and physical mass for the output transistor.
I remain old school, styroflex / tantalum / bc / mje / bd and I keep the circuit of "protection".
for the rest, the most important is to take the time to read the information, that's what makes the difference between a transistor amp and a piece of happiness in everyday life
these are the last pcb(I only kept a part of the resistances) that I bought for my 90/110
Haoli DIY kit NOUVEAU 140 amplificateur kit + alimentation kit base sur NAIM NAP140 L155 4 dans Amplificateur de Electronique sur AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Haoli DIY kit NOUVEAU 140 amplificateur kit + alimentation kit base sur NAIM NAP140 L155 4 dans Amplificateur de Electronique sur AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Thanks Huggy. The pics show the different PCB layout (which ZeroZone copy, BTW) and the parts types. I see you use Philips type NPO ceramic for the compensation cap. or CDOM and the RF bypass cap is the original polystyrene/foil type. Other small caps appear to be polypropylene film (MKP?) I'll wait for you comments on the sound quality and good luck with your assembly.
Will you use a small NAP110 size case or a rack size? I have used a large case on some NAP builds and found it impossible to get stable bias in a reasonable amount of warm-up time. Using the "shoe box" size is much faster and the NAP200 trick of fitting TR5 on the underside of the PCB is better still, if you can fit a proper heat spreader bar to an aluminium case.
Will you use a small NAP110 size case or a rack size? I have used a large case on some NAP builds and found it impossible to get stable bias in a reasonable amount of warm-up time. Using the "shoe box" size is much faster and the NAP200 trick of fitting TR5 on the underside of the PCB is better still, if you can fit a proper heat spreader bar to an aluminium case.
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in fact the layout is a little different but the circuit is the same.
I have not kept the different capacitor because I have a stock of tantalum and polystyrene 70/80 years of very good quality.
I use ztx, bc, MJE for the circuit and comics 743c in final stage.
I have not tried changing diodes by LEDs as neil mc flange but I'll be able to do it.
on the other hand, I tried with success the addition of capacitors directly on the final transistors.
for the rest, I stay closer to the original naim and especially for the layout of the ground plan.
a little reading for those who want to mount an amp "way" naim
Neil McBride's HiFi Stuff
Neil's HiFi pages
Modifying Naim Audio power amplifiers
I have not kept the different capacitor because I have a stock of tantalum and polystyrene 70/80 years of very good quality.
I use ztx, bc, MJE for the circuit and comics 743c in final stage.
I have not tried changing diodes by LEDs as neil mc flange but I'll be able to do it.
on the other hand, I tried with success the addition of capacitors directly on the final transistors.
for the rest, I stay closer to the original naim and especially for the layout of the ground plan.
a little reading for those who want to mount an amp "way" naim
Neil McBride's HiFi Stuff
Neil's HiFi pages
Modifying Naim Audio power amplifiers
This is not yet Resistor comparision. Just a nap140 update.
Update to an original naim clone i have re-done:
You can see from the pics, most of the resistors are SFR25 +/-100ppm and MBB207 +/- 50ppm, few russian non-magnetics, but that does not matter anyway right now.
Aluminum plate has been cut... and empty space filled with silicone.
It warms up now pretty fast !, free air room temp ~28C 😀
Bias sense transistor is mounted against the alu. plate like in nap200.
Outputs are totally random HFE
Sonics are alot better, this is how i will power 98dB 15" carlsons on 4th august😛
On pics you can see 3 soundcards: Creative USB X-FI HD, ASUS U7 and Creative Audigy RX PCIexpress
Quick review: Asus USB, WTF, it has good Hit-Hat like instrument seperation. Sonically, nothing special, tonality is a little bit on lower side. Avarage headphone output.
Creative USB: Also, nothing special, not even highs, tonality comparable to asus.
Headphone output is powerful clear sound... it can easily create pressure to AD900 - piano 40R headphones, head-out dynamics differ from line-out.
Audigy RX pciexpress ... this ***** is only 59$ and its Line-Out OUTperforms everything i have in here 😀
Simply put its natural, tonality at upper side. Its like an instrument.
Hit-Hats are not as soft as Asus USB have ... Does not matter to me anyway... it can be compensated with a speaker, amp, preamplifier.
I did not ABX this cards... i just used them in everyday life... ABX won't give correct answers ... it creates more chaos imo.
Update to an original naim clone i have re-done:
You can see from the pics, most of the resistors are SFR25 +/-100ppm and MBB207 +/- 50ppm, few russian non-magnetics, but that does not matter anyway right now.
Aluminum plate has been cut... and empty space filled with silicone.
It warms up now pretty fast !, free air room temp ~28C 😀
Bias sense transistor is mounted against the alu. plate like in nap200.
Outputs are totally random HFE
Sonics are alot better, this is how i will power 98dB 15" carlsons on 4th august😛
On pics you can see 3 soundcards: Creative USB X-FI HD, ASUS U7 and Creative Audigy RX PCIexpress
Quick review: Asus USB, WTF, it has good Hit-Hat like instrument seperation. Sonically, nothing special, tonality is a little bit on lower side. Avarage headphone output.
Creative USB: Also, nothing special, not even highs, tonality comparable to asus.
Headphone output is powerful clear sound... it can easily create pressure to AD900 - piano 40R headphones, head-out dynamics differ from line-out.
Audigy RX pciexpress ... this ***** is only 59$ and its Line-Out OUTperforms everything i have in here 😀
Simply put its natural, tonality at upper side. Its like an instrument.
Hit-Hats are not as soft as Asus USB have ... Does not matter to me anyway... it can be compensated with a speaker, amp, preamplifier.
I did not ABX this cards... i just used them in everyday life... ABX won't give correct answers ... it creates more chaos imo.
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Hi Rensli, so you like the Audigy RX soundcard? It seems to have all the bells and whistles plus the E-Mu processor in its favour too. I will have to try this one myself when I can stop wasting time and money on other projects 😱 Thanks for the tip.
I'm pleased to see your confirmation that locating TR5 on the underside of the PCB made a such an improvement in bias lag for your build too. Nice going, but all that silicone gel....it's awful messy stuff but are you using it also for damping, as in preventing microphonic behaviour, like Naim claim to have conquered with their rubber mounting pads?
I'm pleased to see your confirmation that locating TR5 on the underside of the PCB made a such an improvement in bias lag for your build too. Nice going, but all that silicone gel....it's awful messy stuff but are you using it also for damping, as in preventing microphonic behaviour, like Naim claim to have conquered with their rubber mounting pads?
Hey, Yes, it is a studio card for me !
I did not use any equalization, 3D sound or whatever effects are avaible for all cards.
Flat as possible settings.
Silicone is only on empty cut area. Easily seen on pics. I used it to stop random air-flow inside case. I had no damping idea in mind 😀
The amplifier have silicone like white rubber feets as you can see from the pics.