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FS: „Ultra Low Noise“ Power Supply, LT3045 based PCB’s

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#61
Stammheim said:
Sligolad, many thanks for sharing your experience!
It's interesting what people use the HPULN's for. Applications, I have not thought about before. With all the devices / interfaces on the market it's also a challenge to find out, which mod might be succelful.

Which thickness did you use for the copper heatsinks?

Congrats to your mod, happy to hear you have (audible) success!

Regards

Stammheim
Click to expand...

Hi Stammheim,

I believe the thickness is between 1.3 to 1.5mm for the copper, its a pretty stiff sheet so not easy to work without a dremmel and a vice but worth the effort.

Cheers, Pearse.
 
#62
Two single rail PSU's up and running. Second one is rock solid. Had some trouble with the first one. I desoldered the resistors to check again if one of the LT3045 was wrong. This was not the case so the resistors went back on the pcb. Now its functioning correct.

Stammheim, a question. The single rail is not usable for 16VDC?
 
#66
@Leeuwarden
Do you mean 16VDC at input or output?
Input is ok, the LT3045 is able to handle up to 20VDC, please don't you adjust >15VDC at the output.
Did you find the reason for the failure?

sq225917 is right, avoid that huge capacity at the output.

@Sligolad
Wow, I thought the thickness might be to less for efficient cooling. Are you able to measure temperature?

Best regards

Stammheim
 
#67
Sligolad said:
Recently replaced an old Audiowind linear regulator for DC 1.3 volts direct to RAM on my audio PC with 2x of the 6 LT3045 Reg boards and had a really big improvement in sound quality.

RAM pulls about 2.9 amps at 1.3 volts on boot and settles at about 2.7 amps running.
The Audiowind regulator was fixed to the audio PC case for heat sinking and worked and it was better than the on-board switched supply on PC boards.

Adding the Stammheim boards really improved sound substantially and is now in my top three improvements for PC based playback.

The standard heat sinks will not cut it for RAM current so I made some copper heat sinks which are bolted to the case and heat never gets too hot to hold your finger on the board after several hours listening.
I used some folded terminal clips to clamp the copper to the boards and it holds well and helps keep good contact with the 3M adhesive heat transfer tape.

The left LT3045 supply is standard and while i tried an AC 6.3 volt supply i ended up going back to the available 5v DC Paul Hynes supply IN with the DC out set to 3.2v to supply the right LT3045 board. You can add DC in on the bottom of the board by soldering to the inputs of the capacitors after the diodes.

The right LT3045 board was supplied without diodes for use as DC in only and the 3.2v in drops the voltage for direct to the RAM supply in to 1.3 volts.

It really has lifted my digital playback system to new heights in enjoyment of music.
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Great stuff @Sligolad! Glad to hear you strucked gold. 🙂
I am currently awaiting delivery of a Uptone Audio LPS-1.2 (using LT3045 vregs. I will be using one of my Gophert csp-3205II as a feeder supply). Since I will be using it to power two devices simultaniously via a Ghent JSSG DC Y-split (Aqvox switch-8 and Luckit BluWave) I am thinking to order a dual ps from Michael so both devices could benefit from having LT3045s in series. I just want to try it out on its own before adding more to the mix.
 
#68
Stammheim said:
@Leeuwarden
Do you mean 16VDC at input or output?
Input is ok, the LT3045 is able to handle up to 20VDC, please don't you adjust >15VDC at the output.
Did you find the reason for the failure?
Click to expand...

The reason for the problems was the trimpot (well, I think it was the trimpot...). Replaced it and had it running with no load for a couple of hours with no problems.

Too bad for me the psu cannot output 16VDC. Wanted to use it for my Aries which needs 16 VDC 1A.
 
#70
Leeuwarden said:
The reason for the problems was the trimpot (well, I think it was the trimpot...). Replaced it and had it running with no load for a couple of hours with no problems.

Too bad for me the psu cannot output 16VDC. Wanted to use it for my Aries which needs 16 VDC 1A.
Click to expand...

Hi Leeuwarden!

I was'nt aware that any Aries needed 16v/1A? AFAIK Aries femto requires min 12v/1.5A and Aries Mini is happy with 14v/1A with cloud content whatever Auralic or other people tells you. I am quite sure your Aries will be happy with less voltage.
 
#73
Hi Misterdog,

First of All... How Did you notice that?

One LT3045 needs a 150kR trimpot to adjust 0-15V. To get the right resistance for multiple LT3045, one needs to devide 150kR through the number of used regs.

You could still use 100kR or more for even a huge number of regs, but the right resistance helps to limit the adjustable output voltage. There's nö free lunch also here: Adjusting the output voltage makes it necessary to monitor voltage not to go >15VDC, as no trimpot limits exactly at his noted value.

@Leeuwarden
You could do that, but getting DC I recommend to remove the diodes to bridge the right connections. Diodes will cause an unnecessery voltage drop in case of using DC.
 
#74
Leeuwarden said:
You are right Cornan!

What is the specificaion of ARIES power input – AURALIC LIMITED

Well AMB Sigma 11 feeding “Stammheim” psu feeding Brooklyn then, and the other one for my Aries!

One more question just to be sure: I can feed the DC output of the AMB straight into the AC side of the “Stammheim” psu?
Click to expand...

There you go! Manufactorers likes to play very safe with their recommendations! 😀

The single ps works perfectly with DC input. That is how I use mine. Positive & negative terminals is on the same side if the board on input and output. Be sure to set the voltage output before plugging it in. 12VDC output will require minimum 13VDC input. Keep the voltage drop at a minimum for best result.

Good luck and keep us posted how it turns out! 🙂
 
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