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FS: „Ultra Low Noise“ Power Supply, LT3045 based PCB’s

Indeed! This combination is the first psu that really makes a difference with my Brooklyn...

Really great to hear! :) It was actually the same thing for me. I tried a numerous power supplies for my Brooklyn DAC until I realized just how good Brooklyn can sound with a little help. Another thing that helped my Brooklyn DAC to sound really awesome was the Luckit BluWave Spdif board fed by Uptone Audio ISO Regen. BluWave´s galvanicly isolated Spdif output is powered by a battery at the moment, but will be replaced with a LPS-1.2 in a week or so. I know Lorien have some new revised boards coming pretty soon.
 
:p Always difficult to describe the difference from the situation before...
Let me try: Soundstage is bigger, instruments are better outlined, more precise, sound is more "silk like"... With the AMB was a small step forward, with both AMB and "Stammheim" psu the step becomes bigger... I'm happy! It is better than the Booster I tried.

For the second psu I first have to score some heatsinks because I forgot to order them at Digikey. P&P at Digikey is sky-high for only two heatsinks :(
 
Dear All,

I receive today my HPULN Power Supply as you can see very good packaging ;)....My configuration : Power-Suppply_12V_DC ---> HPULN_12V_DC ---> DAC....Input Voltage ~12,35V for HPULN ; Output Voltage on HPULN 11,45V

I suggested by @Stammheim for this configuration :
You could do that, but getting DC I recommend to remove the diodes to bridge the right connections. Diodes will cause an unnecessery voltage drop in case of using DC.
I don't do it because, it's temporary configuration just for test... I will use r-Core Transformer 12V soon (purchase done...I need to wait now...:(

So the result is very good : the sound is more clear, more detailed, recoil of the sound stage, more precise...:eek::eek:...In fact, I had the same feeling of @ Leeuwarden.

After, I will upgrade the power supply of my server (using RoonLabs) and have the same approach of @Sligolad : 1 x PS for CPU ; 1 x PS for RAM ; 1 x PS for hard disk.

You don't need a large cap on the output, these regs don't need, nor want to be loaded like that. Go as big as you can on the input filter.

@sq225917,
What capacity do you recommend ? Thanks
 

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LittleScarabee, if you REALLY want another capacitor, I recommend to use a polymer capacitor (anything between 120 - 470uF) directly on the input of your device.
Helpful would be to know more about your setup.

Don't worry not to have thousands of uF capacitance on the HPULN's output, if there is no filter or any resistance, there is no advantage of having more.

Thanks, let me know if you want to go on with your HPULN-setup and let us know about your experience with several transformers :)

Best regards

Stammheim
 
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1A 3045 PCb questions

Not sure if this is the right thread, but... Just received 1A 7.1V (dual) LT3045 kit, bought off eBay. Have looked at ldovr.com, your eBay store, and all this thread (don't see others), but no info on my questions, so:

1) What is the 3-pin jumper for, and what are right settings ?

2) How is a heat sink attached to this board ? I don't think one is required for about .6A load, but I would like to try (good with mechanicals). How is it attached in the big 3A packages ?

Ready to add to output of $19 LT1963 board to power UTA Regen, and hope to hear upgrade (like LPS-1.2). :p
Thanks
 
Hi Daudio1,

Not my store, not my products ;)

From my testing it depends on the power which is transformed into heat by regulating input to output voltage multiplied with current. Nevertheless, it must be clear that regulating power always generates heat, which needs to be dissipated to avoid overheating.

Heatsinks are mounted by adhesive TIM on my boards (directly on the pcb), as the LT's are placed on the bottom.

Best regards

Stammheim
 
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but... Just received 1A 7.1V (dual) LT3045 kit, bought off eBay. Have looked at ldovr.com, your eBay store, and all this thread (don't see others), but no info on my questions, so:

1) What is the 3-pin jumper for, and what are right settings ?

2) How is a heat sink attached to this board ? I don't think one is required for about .6A load, but I would like to try (good with mechanicals). How is it attached in the big 3A packages ?

Ready to add to output of $19 LT1963 board to power UTA Regen, and hope to hear upgrade (like LPS-1.2). :p
Thanks

It is the wrong thread for Alexey´s (lvodr.com) LT3045 boards (that he also sells on eBay). If you have questions regarding his boards you can contact him on alexey@gmail.com. He is also active at CA with the same profile name as his e-mail.
I already use Alexey´s LT3045 boards in series powering my ISO Regen (Gophert csp-3205II 9v>LT3045 8v/500mA>LT3045 7v/500mA) with great result.

I will quite soon get the LPS-1.2 and will try it out using HDPULN at both the input (pre feeder supply) and output in a couple of weeks or so. It will be interesting to see how that turns out! :)
 
LittleScarabee, if you REALLY want another capacitor, I recommend to use a polymer capacitor (anything between 120 - 470uF) directly on the input of your device.
Helpful would be to know more about your setup.

Don't worry not to have thousands of uF capacitance on the HPULN's output, if there is no filter or any resistance, there is no advantage of having more.

Thanks, let me know if you want to go on with your HPULN-setup and let us know about your experience with several transformers :)

Best regards

Stammheim

Hello Stammheim,

I wanted to add a capacitor because "usually" we add a capacitor in output of the filter. but as you explain me it's not necessary when we use HPULN ! :). I will keep you informed as soon as received my r-Core Transformer.

Thanks for all.
 
Stammhiem,

Oops, so sorry to be so off base and off topic. I can only beg forgiveness for a 'senior moment'.

Your regulator modules are beautiful, as well as providing amazing performance. I am tempted to contemplate one for my Mac Mini server LPSU. But that should be in the 4A-6A range (through I measured only max 2.7A with cheap DMM). And I'm only a poor pensioner, so...

I will find a way to add heatsink to the little 1A modules. I am Not a circuit designer (nor trained in reading datasheets), but I've been building and repairing electronics since the early 1960's, so just another project challenge :rolleyes:

Cheers, Dave A
 
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@Leeuwarden
Do you mean 16VDC at input or output?
Input is ok, the LT3045 is able to handle up to 20VDC, please don't you adjust >15VDC at the output.
Did you find the reason for the failure?

sq225917 is right, avoid that huge capacity at the output.

@Sligolad
Wow, I thought the thickness might be to less for efficient cooling. Are you able to measure temperature?

Best regards

Stammheim
Finally got round to measuring temperature on the copper heat-sinks and after 4 hours running and enjoying the music, the heat-sinks were both between 40 & 43C which is excellent.

Will be ordering more for DAC and other possible improvements:)
 
Hi Ampi,

Yes the LT's are published on the bottom side, while the heatsink is on the top of the pcb.
The LT's need to be soldered with their Ex-Pad, which is done from the top side. That's why the LT's are able to use the top side of the pcb to give off heat. The heatsink is mounted by adhesive pad.
Cooling works great.

The heatsink area is 25x50mm.

Best regards

Stammheim
 
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:p Always difficult to describe the difference from the situation before...
Let me try: Soundstage is bigger, instruments are better outlined, more precise, sound is more "silk like"... With the AMB was a small step forward, with both AMB and "Stammheim" psu the step becomes bigger... I'm happy! It is better than the Booster I tried.

For the second psu I first have to score some heatsinks because I forgot to order them at Digikey. P&P at Digikey is sky-high for only two heatsinks :(

After using the combination AMB Sigma 11 and HPULN S-PS for a while I can only say it is a big step up from using the internal SMPS of my Brooklyn dac, It's a big step up from using only the AMB Sigma 11 and it beats me why people even think about trying a Sbooster PS at all...

The only thing that bothers me is the AMB gets a bit to hot. As it has multiple dc outputs I connected a small, slow rotating, fan to cool the thing down a bit. Need to buy a larger chassis with heatsink to put AMB and HPULN S-PS in so the fan can leave.