Maybe the best way to listen to music - at least music that's been mixed in a studio - is to listen to it with identical equipment.
You got it spot on. I enjoy the perfection of studio albums, and rarely find a live recording that's worth my time. I used to work in sound industry in the aforementioned company and have pretty extensive listening experience with the 1036As. They were simply so revealing that they laid the music bare in front of me. Good recordings were gorgeous, bad were full of little ugly details. Kinda the same as when you look at things under magnification 🙂
As standards is and lack of market cooperation because of competition you could be right, but to follow your advice then to buy a new track would be only for very rich people wouldn't it 😛.
i really like the appearance of the system. what type of music do you listen to?
Oh man, you'd have an easier time asking what I don't listen 😀
I like to keep my taste broad, so anything from Nightwish to Norah Jones, from Beethoven to Bon Jovi. Only things I don't really listen to are punk, rap/hip-hop and R&B. I tried to design the system according to that.
Lovely Build Mayuri they look very interesting! Would like to know more about how you use your minidsp for time alignment and any other useful trick stuff!
I have a sort of silly question. I know the answer is probably "it depends", but I'm just looking for a general idea.
With cabinets the size of what's shown in post #3780, how low can the low frequencies go? Does it depend on the driver's Fs? Is anything below Fs reinforced?
It's a really intriguing design. 🙂
Thanks,
Vince
With cabinets the size of what's shown in post #3780, how low can the low frequencies go? Does it depend on the driver's Fs? Is anything below Fs reinforced?
It's a really intriguing design. 🙂
Thanks,
Vince
Beautiful build picture including the ones at imgur link 🙂.
Of course 10F isn't perfect superman but think 16kHz reach is bit pessimistic, reason is probably when measured in home environment we have reasons for limits and as example below blue is 10F verse purple a real 22kHz tweeter on same baffle psychoacoustic smoothed with traced 10F datasheet gold curve in bag ground, throw a 96kHz or 192kHz DSP at 10F and that 22kHz tweeter is within reach on axis at about a 20º window.
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I answer your questions:
Low frequencies they can go 38 Hz -38dB
It does not depend on F3 and this depends on the horn.
/Istvan.
That might be the case. I created a 15kHz +3dB high shelf on MiniDSP EQ, it seems to have helped a bit. Need to tinker more, maybe 20kHz is achievable.
I got to admit I took the easy way out with the MiniDSP (I got the 2x4HD version), and just upgraded the firmware to DDRC-24. Time aligning itself isn't the hard part, just add delay until you get the phases to match, but all other room response altering.
Currently I have it running on 280Hz LR4 for subwoofers and 250Hz LR4 for satellites. 1/4 wavelenght CTC is harder to obtain here, but it is within 1/3 wavelenght.
Thanks for everyone for the comments 🙂
These are so beautiful! Have you compared them to, say, Frugal Horns or Pencils?
Hi, thank you! They are really lovely to look at and they sound wonderful. I have yet to try the frugal horns. I chose these enclosures based on there size and there bass articulation, for a small driver and design they produce a great deal of sound and bass.
Aura NS3
...Aurasound NS3-4ohm's and some very cheap tweeters collecting dust in the closet, so....
Dual NS3's 4R wired full-range in series, sealed in an old PE Baltic Birch knockdown and veneered in lacewood. After first listening without the tweeter highs were lacking, so I added tweeters, a 2.0 uF cap and variable L-pad to sweeten them up a bit... Not bad and can handle greater SPL than expected.
Cost of each cabinets' hardware is $60 (2x AuraNS3 + $20 L-pad and tweeter). But unless the primary design objective is small cab, higher SPL and adjustable treble, and unless you already have the drivers and other stuff, I'd recommend ditching the dual driver, tweeter and L-pad approach and using a single FR driver like the Mark Audio Alpair 6M or 6P, or a Fostex FF85wk for a more detailed and better balanced sound.....maybe even an MA Pluvia 7 though I haven't heard them yet.
Mario
I wish I could post photos, but I'm getting error message "413 Request Entity Too Large". I even tried attaching the Lance photo from my previous posts month ago that uploaded no problem then, but now that gives me the same error message...any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
...Aurasound NS3-4ohm's and some very cheap tweeters collecting dust in the closet, so....
Dual NS3's 4R wired full-range in series, sealed in an old PE Baltic Birch knockdown and veneered in lacewood. After first listening without the tweeter highs were lacking, so I added tweeters, a 2.0 uF cap and variable L-pad to sweeten them up a bit... Not bad and can handle greater SPL than expected.
Cost of each cabinets' hardware is $60 (2x AuraNS3 + $20 L-pad and tweeter). But unless the primary design objective is small cab, higher SPL and adjustable treble, and unless you already have the drivers and other stuff, I'd recommend ditching the dual driver, tweeter and L-pad approach and using a single FR driver like the Mark Audio Alpair 6M or 6P, or a Fostex FF85wk for a more detailed and better balanced sound.....maybe even an MA Pluvia 7 though I haven't heard them yet.
Mario
I wish I could post photos, but I'm getting error message "413 Request Entity Too Large". I even tried attaching the Lance photo from my previous posts month ago that uploaded no problem then, but now that gives me the same error message...any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
