Design credit goes to Shankenstein from Thingiverse.
I 3D printed with a FlashForge 3d Printer Creator Pro
I 3D printed with a FlashForge 3d Printer Creator Pro
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I used ABS plastic with 10% infill, full support.
I also just printed one, because I am taking Patrick Batemans advice and will run a tweeter mono
I also just printed one, because I am taking Patrick Batemans advice and will run a tweeter mono
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Would be fun to print this shape with something like Bronzefill and polish it after printing! It would make it 3x the weight of regular PLA and make it look good too!
Looks cool! I've read somewhere that actually a phase plug is not the most ideal option for such a lens. A flat tweeter is supposed to work better.
How did you come up with the design details? Just a wild guess of are there any actual calculations behind it?
Would be interested to see some measurements!
How did you come up with the design details? Just a wild guess of are there any actual calculations behind it?
Would be interested to see some measurements!
Waveguide - Vifa XT25 found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:932179Looks cool! I've read somewhere that actually a phase plug is not the most ideal option for such a lens. A flat tweeter is supposed to work better.
How did you come up with the design details? Just a wild guess of are there any actual calculations behind it?
Would be interested to see some measurements!
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End plan is to run the tweeter from 6khz or 10khz and up. This design supposedly flattens power response
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Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Hmm, looks like there is no real "hard" science behind this thing then (except for the concept of the lens)? That does not mean it is not an effective device tough 🙂
The science is the height of the hollowed area is proportional to the diameter of the tweeter. Without a ring radiator the beam would only be as wide as the diameter will allow, it would beam 13,500hz, that's only if it's right in front of you, a 1" sweet spot. The ring radiator would effectively reduce the breakup at the top. Since I'm using it as a super tweeter, mono, and center of dash. I'm hoping I can reduce reflections from the side with treatment on the pillars, and the lens restricts longitudinal dispersion.Hmm, looks like there is no real "hard" science behind this thing then (except for the concept of the lens)? That does not mean it is not an effective device tough 🙂
If I'm observing from the x plane looking at the zy plane, I want to narrow z(height) and maintain y(width). But if you squeeze z y responds like squishing a ball. So you must use treatment to correct. A parametric eq ain't gonna help just like 🙌🙏
So basically I'm anticipating a bigass baffle is just going to be not helpful and impede my view
I hope my take on this is not skewed
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Wait till I add the midranges drivers in an ambio setup. This will be interesting especially in a vehicle
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Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
The science is the height of the hollowed area is proportional to the diameter of the tweeter. Without a ring radiator the beam would only be as wide as the diameter will allow, it would beam 13,500hz, that's only if it's right in front of you, a 1" sweet spot. The ring radiator would effectively reduce the breakup at the top. Since I'm using it as a super tweeter, mono, and center of dash. I'm hoping I can reduce reflections from the side with treatment on the pillars, and the lens restricts longitudinal dispersion.
I get the science of the design concept, that is not nu question. My question is if this thing was specifically made for this tweeter? Where did the dimensions come from?
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Shankenstein claims to be an engineer. I will have to trust his/her skills
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Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Don't mind the gap. These will be sanded, primed, and painted on the front and felt on the back
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Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
I am still a noob at 3D printing, but I would be tempted to rotate it 90 deg so the mouth of the horn was facing up when it is printed. that would keep the support material out of the horn opening.
You could. But for faster print time this orientation is better. It can do the round part in a spiralI am still a noob at 3D printing, but I would be tempted to rotate it 90 deg so the mouth of the horn was facing up when it is printed. that would keep the support material out of the horn opening.
Also I need to do a search on how to properly do a measurement in a car, using the umik. I'm def thinking to do it at night in favorable conditions. Is anyone using the Dirac software or that free RTA software REW?
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https://www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/umik-1-setup-with-rew
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Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
The XT25 may be challenging. For such setup higher sensitivity is always better, I think you`d either need at least 95db/w or to help them a bit with miniDSP. I did something like this few years ago and installed them in a BMW with a SB26STCN in them. The drop in sensitivity was huge but they do change the soundstage and picture. I made mine from a solid POM plastic rod - three pieces which were then joined with glue. During summer heats, one fell apart, literally, 3D printing`s a much better approach 😀
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