Yes it is a D8 STA328. It's been a week already that I'm trying it, but it doesn't quite satisfy me like the TDA8932. As a matter of fact, the latter it's more satisfying: it's like listening to a live, a thing that I'm not really feeling with the D8 up until now. Maybe it's still going through its trial stage.
I've used the TDA8932 with a fet preamp connected to a CCA. Can you tell me how did you connected the FDA (Popu) to the TDA8932? Is it possible to do it with the D8 too? Maybe through the headphone plug? And more importantly, doing it would result in a better experience for me? thanks.
My guess is its power supply related. The TDA has feedback and hence is more able to cope with a soggy supply. But have you cleaned up the TDA's signal circuitry supply rail with extra decoupling ? If not then there's more enjoyment to come for you when you address that.
Have a look at my blog - there are a couple of posts there which are relevant. You need a filter to get rid of the carrier wave - the usual output filter doesn't reduce ultrasonics to a low enough level to feed into a pre or amp. Then you need a transformer to reduce the voltage to a normal DAC output level (2VRMS). Yes you can do this with the D8.
It really depends what your current DAC is feeding your TDA. I found the improvement over an optimized TDA1387-based DAC was fairly subtle, but better dynamics in the main.
I did get a new problem!
With the amplifier matter cleared, now I am in need of a bi-amp compatible speaker. Thankfully, they've made no progress whatsoever in the 30 years since I last tried it. Well, as unfortunate as that might be, I can be thankful that I won't be batting around in the dark. Well, there is just one improvement to report in the form of some rather entertaining and practical electrostatic tweeters.
I've made a lot of hybrid series cross speakers; however, only one ordinary parallel (conducive to bi-amp) speaker, and that's my old test speaker.
His son will be a double-woofer 3-way derivative with the new electrostatic tweeters.
Wish me luck, sawdust in my hair, and sticky fingers too!
Hi guys,
I just bough three cheap TDA8932 mono BTL amplifiers from aliexpress and they behave nasty.
I wired one of them to test it and it makes loud audio holes (gaps) when playing beyond a certain level which is far lower then should be. I measured only 100-120mA on supply current when happens, audio output is around 2-4W
It is supplied from 26V LiFePO4 big batteries, no small power supply. Short wires, everything as per rules. Source is a phone.
I had read in datasheets before buying and it was supposed to have current limitation just to avoid exactly this phenomena.
What can be done? From where can arise the problem?
I just bough three cheap TDA8932 mono BTL amplifiers from aliexpress and they behave nasty.
I wired one of them to test it and it makes loud audio holes (gaps) when playing beyond a certain level which is far lower then should be. I measured only 100-120mA on supply current when happens, audio output is around 2-4W
It is supplied from 26V LiFePO4 big batteries, no small power supply. Short wires, everything as per rules. Source is a phone.
I had read in datasheets before buying and it was supposed to have current limitation just to avoid exactly this phenomena.
What can be done? From where can arise the problem?
These are the boards https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fre...High-power-TDA8932-low-power/32687093344.html
For measuring, supply was through ammeter. Batteries are LiFePo4, so plenty of current, no reason for this behaviour. Supply wires are short, copper made. I tried first at around 26V directly and after that because didn't worked as per expectation i tried also at 13,...up to 26V again. With ammeter. Same behaviour.
I tried with 10 ohms 5W resistors on outputs. Oscilloscope at output and I can see the "holes" but no "reason for them" on the supply line. Supply is clean (some noise but low). No gaps.
For measuring, supply was through ammeter. Batteries are LiFePo4, so plenty of current, no reason for this behaviour. Supply wires are short, copper made. I tried first at around 26V directly and after that because didn't worked as per expectation i tried also at 13,...up to 26V again. With ammeter. Same behaviour.
I tried with 10 ohms 5W resistors on outputs. Oscilloscope at output and I can see the "holes" but no "reason for them" on the supply line. Supply is clean (some noise but low). No gaps.
Well, at that price it's probably not even worth sending it back. I'd be curious though what's the reason. At first I would check the source of the noise, batteries aren't noisy at all. If there is a step up converter involved, that would explain the noise and probably the drop outs. I'd pretty much investigate and replace that first, otherwise you'd lose the amps and are still stuck with a crap converter which probably ruins the next project.
My oscilloscope is a kind of garbage, Axiomet, it's extremely sensitive with noise on the ground line; if i'm connecting it's probe ground on a chopper ground and i'm measuring with the probe tip the very same point, it's appear on the image some non-zero noise, amplitude is depending with the chopper EMI... typically the noise can be said it's in between tens and hundreds of mV p-p, but sometimes if big current are involved, I cannot measure useful signals because of perturbations...
From my country, to send them back costs ten times more then their price.
I'd like to find a solution, cause in specs they seems like good chips.. that's why I bought them.. But of course, i can just throw them away and forget about them, and buy anothers, in the autumn.. I liked them cause they support 24-30V and can supply them directly from the 29-30V of these lithium packs.
I had bought some PAM chips also, the 5V and the 12V versions, and they work very well, i didn't expect them to sound so good (well, my ears are not so good anymore, but that's another story). When i was young i made hi-fi amplifiers also, up to 2x300W (2x1200W peak) but now i no longer need monsters, they simply consume too much, and i'll move off-grid next year.
@ICG: no converter involved; noise i just explained why it is; the amplifier is directly from batteries, and the only "resistance" involved is the non-zero resistance of the supply wires but they are short and from copper, i did eliminated these as possible cause first, and after that tried also with some capacitors just on the connection to amplifier boards, 3x2200uF, no results.
@lithoc: nooo, i'm not making rookie mistakes; well, only when i'm really tired, but not now.
@lithoc: nooo, i'm not making rookie mistakes; well, only when i'm really tired, but not now.
Hello everyone. This is the second time I have ordered 2 TDA8932BT and even after contacting the ebayer beforehand and asking him to confirm me that they were both the BT version, again I had problems: one is a TDA8932T and another one is a TDA8932BT/NP. Frankly, I am now asking myself who sells those BT versions? Now I'll have to wait two months again even if I'm willing to make another order.
I noticed that most sellers are shipping out only the T version.
A couple of days ago, I received the bluetooth version (of the TDA8932T) and I connected it to a power supply 13,5 v 5a and the only problem I have is that when I turn on the amp it comes out a very loud voice sound (saying that the amp is ready to connect) and everytime I connect a device, there she goes again making a lot of noise (saying that the amp is connected and such). Does anyone know how to eliminate these loud warning? I can't use it at night because it automatically speaks at the highest possible volume and wakes everyone up.
I noticed that most sellers are shipping out only the T version.
A couple of days ago, I received the bluetooth version (of the TDA8932T) and I connected it to a power supply 13,5 v 5a and the only problem I have is that when I turn on the amp it comes out a very loud voice sound (saying that the amp is ready to connect) and everytime I connect a device, there she goes again making a lot of noise (saying that the amp is connected and such). Does anyone know how to eliminate these loud warning? I can't use it at night because it automatically speaks at the highest possible volume and wakes everyone up.
