DonVK I understand now. Thanks again. so I'm up here with some new drawings. I also add my recent project, so this floor standing ones will be same type, rounded over edges and oil finish, but speakers will be mounted from inside. I have a sample photo from Kirby Meets Audio about speaker mounting.
I hope this time i got something works...
I hope this time i got something works...
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How much of this speaker are you actually building?
Are you buying a kit [Drivers, CrossOvers, misc Hardware] and placing it in your own cabinet?
BTW you're lucky to be in HK. Your available parts selection and prices must be amazing.
Hi again,
My components;
Speaker; AIRS brand 5.79 US Dollar each
Tweeters; AIRS 5.50 US Each
Crossover; AIRS 4.34 US each
Digital Amp 2.1 BREEZE AUDIO (I regret) 18.09 US
Bamboo plywood is not flooring. They produce 5mm to 31mm thickness. So beautiful, so sturdy and easy to work. I think for this project it will cost me about 20-25 USD i will use 18mm thick.
I'm buying my stuff from taobao.com its amazing. You can find anything you need. But unfortunately its only available in chinese and they wont send overseas. Im actually From Turkey but my wife is Chinese. So its great to have an access to taobao.com.
So what do you guys think about my last sketches? Will any of them worth to try?
My components;
Speaker; AIRS brand 5.79 US Dollar each
Tweeters; AIRS 5.50 US Each
Crossover; AIRS 4.34 US each
Digital Amp 2.1 BREEZE AUDIO (I regret) 18.09 US
Bamboo plywood is not flooring. They produce 5mm to 31mm thickness. So beautiful, so sturdy and easy to work. I think for this project it will cost me about 20-25 USD i will use 18mm thick.
I'm buying my stuff from taobao.com its amazing. You can find anything you need. But unfortunately its only available in chinese and they wont send overseas. Im actually From Turkey but my wife is Chinese. So its great to have an access to taobao.com.
So what do you guys think about my last sketches? Will any of them worth to try?
By the way, they claimed woofers are 35w and tweeters 20w, i used 3 inches woofers on my previous project, from same brand. It's unexpectedly good. But i'm not an audio guy. Maybe it wont be pleasant for you guys.
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What goals are you trying to accomplish?
Usually a tilted or horizontal woofer is attempting to make omnidirectional sound, using reflected sound off the walls. However you need room to do this, as the speakers cannot be against a wall. Is your listening space large enough to put the speakers >1m from any walls?
I just want to make decent speakers for listening music with some nice looking handmade touch. Maybe I can give it to someone as gift. I thought it would be nice next to TV for using with TV and music player.
Is it really dramatically effect that distance to wall or shape of the room? Houses are so small in Hong Kong. I mean will it be disturb any ordinary person that not especially looking for HIFI sound?
Is it really dramatically effect that distance to wall or shape of the room? Houses are so small in Hong Kong. I mean will it be disturb any ordinary person that not especially looking for HIFI sound?
This is only a suggestion, I have not made a speaker like this.
Try a type of vertical "bipole" which are made to be mounted against walls. Top woofer or full range is on surface between 30-45deg down from horizontal making the angle from the vertical wall 120-135deg (oblique). Then either a woofer or full range driver on the front surface equi-distant from the front edge with top driver. Then a tweeter, only if the other drivers are woofers. If you use full range drivers you don't need a cross over, and you can go a little bigger (5-6inch) driver for similar cost. Also, if there are children around you'll need a wire mesh driver cover otherwise they will poke the drivers 🙂
The tweeter is a bit low, normally they are placed at seated ear level since higher frequencies are more directional
I agree with Scott, the tweeter needs to be roughly at ear listening level.
Yes, 2x drivers means 2x volume but you'll also get much better bass from small speakers.
I can't tell how high the cabinet is. One drawing has a vertical tab at the back (oblique to top woofer) of the cabinet for a tweeter. That would be one location because it would be parallel to the wall and raised to ear listening level. However it does cause a phase shift problem from the woofer. Another solution is to put the tweeter as high up on the front surface so its aligned to the front woofer.
Are you sure you don't want to use 2 full range speakers for this, and avoid the other issues?
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I really appreciate guys, you already taught me a lot. So, what about this drawing?
And I want to ask should I double the cabinet volume due to 2 speakers?
Speaker itself about 60cm without that tweeter board. I thought it can be even place on the TV stand. The guy in the drawings is about 180cm tall. He can give some idea about scale.
And I want to ask should I double the cabinet volume due to 2 speakers?
Speaker itself about 60cm without that tweeter board. I thought it can be even place on the TV stand. The guy in the drawings is about 180cm tall. He can give some idea about scale.
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If you bring your tweeter plate down to where the bottom of the angled woofer is and put the other woofer underneath the one on the base you would have a TMM style with the tweeter being reasonably time aligned. Much more conventional but likely to be more successful.
By combining radiation in different directions from the same type of drivers will create interference patterns. This can be helpful if you know what you are doing and can control the relative levels or EQ of the drivers like the Beolab does.
In your picture it is more likely to create destructive interference and peaks and dips in the response.
Cabinet volume is dependant on the parameters of your drivers, do you have any Thiele Small parameters for them. Also whether it will be sealed or vented.
By combining radiation in different directions from the same type of drivers will create interference patterns. This can be helpful if you know what you are doing and can control the relative levels or EQ of the drivers like the Beolab does.
In your picture it is more likely to create destructive interference and peaks and dips in the response.
Cabinet volume is dependant on the parameters of your drivers, do you have any Thiele Small parameters for them. Also whether it will be sealed or vented.
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Oh I dont really understand the placement. (My bad English)
I attached the graphs that manufacturer provided. and the other informations are like this;
Rated power: 35W
Maximum power: 50W
Peak power: 100W
Effective frequency: 75Hz-5500Hz
Sensitivity: 86dB
Qts: 0.56
Cabinet volume: 5.6L
I designed as sealed. No any reason just easier. I think vent hole and insert pipe also need some calculation. I feel very down now. I think it will ended up ordinary book shelf speakers; woofer and tweeter in the front. 🙁 🙁 But I want to make something visually different and pleasing.
I attached the graphs that manufacturer provided. and the other informations are like this;
Rated power: 35W
Maximum power: 50W
Peak power: 100W
Effective frequency: 75Hz-5500Hz
Sensitivity: 86dB
Qts: 0.56
Cabinet volume: 5.6L
I designed as sealed. No any reason just easier. I think vent hole and insert pipe also need some calculation. I feel very down now. I think it will ended up ordinary book shelf speakers; woofer and tweeter in the front. 🙁 🙁 But I want to make something visually different and pleasing.
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In my mind I saw it as a floor stander. Obviously that's not the case, so, from an aesthetic point of view you could place the tweeter wherever you want and adjust height with the stand. I still recommend though that you place it as close as possible to the woofer. Also you mentioned a 2.1 amp, are you planning to use a subwoofer?
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I have a TEAC subwoofer leftover. I will use it for now and make a simple cube subwoofer box later. So... Since everything is very cheap, I'll take this as experimental design.
Like this, I chopped your picture up a bit but hopefully you get the idea.
The last page is the most useful as it lists the T/S parameters put these into a box program and it will tell you the optimum cabinet volume.
There are some strange things in that Qts is shown in the image as 0.52 and not 0.56, but Vas at 5.6L is the same as the cabinet volume they have listed.
Making the cabinet the same size as Vas will work but it may not be optimal.
Sealed is fine but those woofers won't go very low in a sealed cabinet.
Make it however you want it to look, but the image I just posted will work a lot better as a speaker!
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AquaDesignHK,
For your goals, you might want to check out wide-band (aka full-range) drivers. I know this is the multi-way forum, but given the design brief, I thought I'd suggest. 🙂
Mark Audio, one of the popular wide-band brands among diyA folk, are based in Hong Kong, so should be easy for you to check out.
An "up-firing" design that might interest you:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...-bipolar-ml-tl-chr-70-el70-7.html#post1926558
fluid, Thanks mate, I got it now. Probably I will go for single woofer + tweeter. Maybe just ordinary tower speaker. I will try something different maybe next time.
zman01 Thanks for the link. I heard about his speakers, seems very good quality. I don't know the price range but must be way way over this projects budget. Definately i will go for full range drivers next time.
zman01 Thanks for the link. I heard about his speakers, seems very good quality. I don't know the price range but must be way way over this projects budget. Definately i will go for full range drivers next time.
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