How about as a bit of a compromise to keep your idea of an angled top, mount the single woofer and tweeter together on the top angled baffle? They may work quite well then even on the floor in a small room because you would be listening at close range and they would point up towards your listening position. If it doesn't work for you it would be easy enough to change it to something more ordinary. But that wasn't what you wanted was it? 😉😀
Yes yes... I think it will be the best option except traditional way. I'm actually already started to cutting bamboo plywood. I will share results here. Thanks you all for answers. I learned a lot!
Eventually I choose simple way.
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Hi. Looking good. I really like the bamboo, what's it like to work with? I've seen a cabinet that had the end grain of the side panels showing around the baffle edges and that looked quite attractive
Mmmm, that's a whole different ball game and one that if you are interested in I suggest you do research. Your cabinet is plenty large enough to function well as a sealed box with that driver. How does it sound?
I haven't add bottom piece yet. According 5.7 litre calculation, bottom plate needs to be a little bit higher than bottom line. But as it is on the photo, I tested over a white piece of silicon rubber mat. Not 100% sealed but sounds not bad to my ears. If I bend whole thing backwards and make a small gap at bottom, bass sounds change a lot. I can't decide which sound is good to me. Is there any way to determine that?
It doesn't matter if enclosure is larger than your calculation, that will just increase bass extension, no bad thing! Having a gap at the bottom will just change it into some random goodness knows what 😉🙂
So, I'm gonna finish it up. And try if it OK sound. If not I can add hole or whatever it needs. By the way I heard that first 100 hours I shouldn't turn volume too high... And after 100 hours of playing, driver will reach full capacity. Or something like that. Is that true?
Whats the spec for the driver, and I'll run a sim to calc the port dimensions.
Thanks a lot Don. Specs and graphs all in 4th page of this thread. Sorry it's almost 1:00am here. I'm on mobile now. If you need any other information, I can try to find tomorrow. You guys are so helpful. I appreciate that.
Usually, the design is simulated before it is built to determine the box and port dimensions. You are impatient 😉
Because the box is tall and thin it falls between a "ported bass reflex (BR)" and a "mass loaded transmission line (MLTL)". I've used HornResp to estimate both and I get the same answer for both. I also tried a sealed box and the performance is poor so your ears are correct. HornResp is only useful for bass response so low freq (<500Hz).
The MLTL graphs were include because you could get reflections (glitches) due to the aspect ratio (tall box). You should place some polyester fill (2 cm deep) at the bottom of the box to reduce them. You'll need a 2.5cm diameter x 8cm long pipe near the bottom 1/3 of the case at the back side.
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Again, one single answer for you and many things to learn for me 🙂 And I have new questions.
-Should I fill the whole space with polyester? or all surfaces? or just bottom of the box wil be enough?
-Space inside the box cross cut is 10cm x 10cm. So if I add 8 cm pipe, there will be 2 cm gap between pipe end and internal wall. Will it be a problem?
-Can pipe hole be in the front? (i saw many similar design, mostly hole is on the front side)
Thanks!!!
-Should I fill the whole space with polyester? or all surfaces? or just bottom of the box wil be enough?
-Space inside the box cross cut is 10cm x 10cm. So if I add 8 cm pipe, there will be 2 cm gap between pipe end and internal wall. Will it be a problem?
-Can pipe hole be in the front? (i saw many similar design, mostly hole is on the front side)
Thanks!!!
You can go as short as 6cm it won't make that much difference and you need open space in front of the pipe.
Polyester only on the bottom. The risk is top to bottom reflections. Make sure the pipe is above the polyester fill.
I would put the pipe in the back only because you have a very clean nice finish on the front. Tuning ports only look nice on the front if you can get a flare shape otherwise they just look like a hole. Your decision on location (front/back) of the pipe it does not make much of a difference acoustically. Just make sure its in the bottom 1/3 of the case.
Ok I now understand. I can get some nice looking pipes as below. Also i can make the hole match with tweeters hole, like rounded over edges. I think I can finish everything tomorrow. And definitely share the results! Thanks again...
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Have you ever measured the acoustic performance of your speakers? Or is it mostly by ear, how it sounds?
I don't know how to measure it �� I'm seriously newbie about speakers. I'm just ok by building things. But no knowledge about audio.
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