Datasheet may be useful....
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/302/TDA8932B-843064.pdf
He describes what he did initially in this post.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...tda8932-pessimistic-review-9.html#post4575284
Do a search of this topic with the phrase "SE mode"... Start with the oldest.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/302/TDA8932B-843064.pdf
He describes what he did initially in this post.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...tda8932-pessimistic-review-9.html#post4575284
Do a search of this topic with the phrase "SE mode"... Start with the oldest.
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A capacitor in series between the tweeter and the amplifier's ground.
As a side note, the amplifier gain will be lower for this output. You may need to further revise the tweeter's crossover parts (the padding or divider or L-pad) to recoup the difference.
The TDA7297 will do a fine job for TV/Movies, as it is quite like a high-res gainclone, except slightly less annoying and a lot cheaper.
The TDA8932 does better on music, and for that I, personally opinion that you'd require a room that doesn't have a TV in it.
I think that comparing those two application-centric notes, gives a clear idea of which amp to use.
So, the exception is if you think you'll be doing a lot of music replay in a room equipped with goodly size TV screen: I don't have the license for that one. What I can say is that there is a difference.
The board pictured initially is fairly charming in stock condition, albeit not top-notch resolution. Had the chip been suitable for the board, then the review might have been slightly better. I had initially reviewed the TDA8932T on a board made for the TDA8932BT.
There's a slight difference on results.
It has two more options, which were not initially reviewed.
The new news is that they could be more entertaining, and someone might happen to say better.
If you didn't want extremely loud audio, or if you really wanted a highly capable mids&tweeter amp, then you could run it SE mode. It sure can do that one.
It is also cable of driving the woofer, well, from BTL mode while also driving the midrange on amp#2 in SE mode, while also driving the tweeter on amp#1 in SE mode. That's the mixed mode application.
It is fantastic.
I have found that usage awfully addictive, for more than a year.
My new project is teaming up the TDA8932, with AMP#1 in SE mode for the tweeter and AMP#2 in SE mode for the midrange, along with its big brother for the woofer. Initial results are excessive, because I don't need that much indoors. However, it is a really pleasant device, in that it doesn't have any sort of shortfall problem, nor the associated labor for that. However, the costs come up short.
It does have more uses than illustrated at post#1.
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Hello, Daniel. Thanks for your information. Some time ago I ordered a TDA8932 bluetooth card and 2 pcb TDA8932, signed SANWU under the card, but as they don't seem to be arriving I was thinking of ordering other ones that will arrive faster. Do you think they're ok?
TDA8932 Amplifier Board Amplificatore Stereo Modulo MONO Bassa Potenza 35W 24V | eBay
TDA8932 Amplifier Board Amplificatore Stereo Modulo MONO Bassa Potenza 35W 24V | eBay
That board is wonderful. But, what you can do with it is a gamble. If it comes with TDA8932BT, then convenience is yours. However, if it comes with TDA8932T, then you'll need to figure out how to drive the tweeter in a non-bridged mode (series cap to ground for tweeter or even "super-tweeter" return line).
What you could get is either something almost awesome or one of the finest amps ever. Considering the price, I would support rolling the dice on that.
Either outcome will drive a woofer, midbass, and possibly even a midrange, as well as can be expected for an audio amplifier with wattage scale suitable for indoor use within a residence.
The really stupidly high end business happens if you use TDA8932BT in SE mode (or that odd mixed mode mentioned earlier) to drive a tweeter. The price for what that can do is similar to 2~4 barbeque grills. Yes, in the proportion, the gamble and the effort for bi-amp, do seem financially svelt for those who like hi-fi audio.
P.S.
I am very puzzled as for why all of the applications that I've managed for that board (in your link) with the TDA8932T and TDA8932BT have exactly the same tone. In fact, swapping the power supply does not make a significant change to the tone or resolution (I didn't try outright horrors, but there were vast differences tried, all with reasonable expectation of function). Between the application examples, of course the resolution does differ (and not because of the power supply). The one aspect varies not while the other aspect varies extremely.
That's a little bit puzzling and a lot convenient.
The uber-fi high-resolution application costs only the effort of getting that board with a TDA8932BT, one little capacitor, an efficient tweeter (they usually are--this just the inconvenience and slight cost of crossover adjustment) and one more conductor for the speaker cable (to drive the tweeter non-bridged).
Well, the puzzle is that the tone of the high-res example isn't the slightest bit different from the overcomp midfi example. How on earth?
P.S.2.
Philips always puts in a short, just for sport, in their power amp products. This is ever so much more convenient than the complicated stuff the other brands do. This is great, because so much less time-consuming!!! For this family of amplifiers, the short is non-destructive and located at the input. It is obviously and visibly abridged. The differences between the two amplifiers aboard each chip are not accommodated by hardwiring any portion of the input together. That problem, which is in the datasheet, reduces the treble resolution in bridge mode. The traditional prank (bit of hazing) can be removed by either running the tweeter SE mode or by using a more eloquent input circuit with base stoppers (bit of resistor padding between different units). You know, like if we used the more elaborate input circuit suited to any Class aB amplifier (the small signal portion is the very same), then the problem is removed, post-haste by traditional, orthodox, and inexpensive means. However, the soldering job to just run the tweeter in SE mode is going to be much easier.
I understand, thanks for the tips. I have some other question for when you have the time:That board is wonderful. But, what you can do with it is a gamble. If it comes with TDA8932BT, then convenience is yours. However, if it comes with TDA8932T, then you'll need to figure out how to drive the tweeter in a non-bridged mode (series cap to ground for tweeter or even "super-tweeter" return line).
What you could get is either something almost awesome or one of the finest amps ever. Considering the price, I would support rolling the dice on that.
Either outcome will drive a woofer, midbass, and possibly even a midrange, as well as can be expected for an audio amplifier with wattage scale suitable for indoor use within a residence.
The really stupidly high end business happens if you use TDA8932BT in SE mode (or that odd mixed mode mentioned earlier) to drive a tweeter. The price for what that can do is similar to 2~4 barbeque grills. Yes, in the proportion, the gamble and the effort for bi-amp, do seem financially svelt for those who like hi-fi audio.
P.S.
I am very puzzled as for why all of the applications that I've managed for that board (in your link) with the TDA8932T and TDA8932BT have exactly the same tone. In fact, swapping the power supply does not make a significant change to the tone or resolution (I didn't try outright horrors, but there were vast differences tried, all with reasonable expectation of function). Between the application examples, of course the resolution does differ (and not because of the power supply). The one aspect varies not while the other aspect varies extremely.
That's a little bit puzzling and a lot convenient.
The uber-fi high-resolution application costs only the effort of getting that board with a TDA8932BT, one little capacitor, an efficient tweeter (they usually are--this just the inconvenience and slight cost of crossover adjustment) and one more conductor for the speaker cable (to drive the tweeter non-bridged).
Well, the puzzle is that the tone of the high-res example isn't the slightest bit different from the overcomp midfi example. How on earth?
P.S.2.
Philips always puts in a short, just for sport, in their power amp products. This is ever so much more convenient than the complicated stuff the other brands do. This is great, because so much less time-consuming!!! For this family of amplifiers, the short is non-destructive and located at the input. It is obviously and visibly abridged. The differences between the two amplifiers aboard each chip are not accommodated by hardwiring any portion of the input together. That problem, which is in the datasheet, reduces the treble resolution in bridge mode. The traditional prank (bit of hazing) can be removed by either running the tweeter SE mode or by using a more eloquent input circuit with base stoppers (bit of resistor padding between different units). You know, like if we used the more elaborate input circuit suited to any Class aB amplifier (the small signal portion is the very same), then the problem is removed, post-haste by traditional, orthodox, and inexpensive means. However, the soldering job to just run the tweeter in SE mode is going to be much easier.
- Can I use a regulated power supply 13.5V - 5A? Or should I use a universal power adapter 12-24 volt?
- I have 2 tweter 2 of 3.6 cm soft dome. Are they fine ?
- the capacitor to be plugged must be made of polypropylene or electrolytic of 1uf and how many volts does it needs?Can you advise me on something to use?
- I draw a diagram (you can find it below) of how to connect the tweeter. Is it okay?
- can I use a pot 50k removed from a TDA7297?
https://postimg.org/image/8csa4izj7/
https://postimg.org/image/6v2om2g2b/
https://s27.postimg.org/qnp3xo6c3/rcf_br45.jpg
https://postimg.org/image/429h21fpv/
This last photo was taken from the web but I can confirm that I have these speakers.
https://postimg.org/image/ucxgjpp1p/
You can use it with the BTL configuration IMHO
It seems there is no major sound differences between the BT or the T version according to the datasheet.
thanks for your answer. I still don't know if I'm going to return it.
For everyone: Has any of you used it in a SE configuration as Daniel described?
Look at fig. 38 and fig. 39 of this datasheet:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TDA8932B.pdf
That might give you the best possible explanation.
I think that besides David only a few users have converted their boards to SE.
Although it is quite a small tweak, there is still some fiddling with small smt part required.
Don't get me wrong, it might be a nice project for you and be worth the effort.
But the btl mode has its advantages, too, and for what you get for its price i would not change anything and just use two of them.
If you are stuck to 4 Ohm speakers there are other options like TPA3110 or TPA3118.
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TDA8932B.pdf
That might give you the best possible explanation.
I think that besides David only a few users have converted their boards to SE.
Although it is quite a small tweak, there is still some fiddling with small smt part required.
Don't get me wrong, it might be a nice project for you and be worth the effort.
But the btl mode has its advantages, too, and for what you get for its price i would not change anything and just use two of them.
If you are stuck to 4 Ohm speakers there are other options like TPA3110 or TPA3118.
Or you could use toroidal output transformers (custom order) to adapt the amp in BTL to 4ohm loads.
Hi, Thank you for your answer. I'm thinking of returning the TDA8932T I received because the seller had told me that they were TDA8932BT (and they weren't). But if I return the goods I have to wait another two months. Furthermore, the seller can only send me one TDA8932BT (I think as a gift because of their mistake) .. So you confirm me that TDA8932 T goes well in btl for my 8 ohm vintage speaker but someone else described the sound muddy in BTL mode, do you agree?
Hi, Thank you for your answer, can I use my linear stabilized power supply 13.5 V v-5a which currently I use on a modified FENICE 20 modicier - TPA3116D2 B / B - TDA7297 modified - TDA3118 mono and never had any noise problems or should I buy a universal variable power supply for personal computer that I can get in a febbraio days?