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Reference DAC Module - Discrete R-2R Sign Magnitude 24 bit 384 KHz

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A

audiozen

Member
Joined 2017
RollE2k said:
Would also be interested in this setup.. if you possibly sell boards drop a PM if you do... :)

Also, what is the USB unit.. not Amanero for this?
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Xerxes75 said:
Thanks for the extra pictures! What really wanted to know is if you sell this setup? And off course what the costs would be..

R.
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rjbaldwin said:
Very nice indeed, I would also be interested in the details.
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Xerxes75 said:
That looks great! Do you have some more information about this setup?

R.
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Slazi said:
Is there hdmi input? I just bought two dac boards and I'm looking for other parts that I need and I'm really interested if there is a way to add hdmi input.
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Thanks for your interesting for our setup of 1021.It is a very compact design demo，and We will be redesigned into a more optimized version. Demo board has achieved the following functions，
Full interface，AES, Coaxial，Optical，usb，iis over HDMI
Usb compatible Amanero USB module，or other xmos module
Differential IIS （HDMI compatible PS audo）
3.12 inch OLED display with 256*64 resolution
Input selection, digital filter switch, volume control, rate display through the isolated serial port
Remote control and encoder control，IR remoter is 38k. Remoter can set up by yourself , we use the Apple TV remoter, remote control a key mute
Built-in TPS7A4700 low noise LDO regulator supply for the isolated digital part
The official version will be completed at the end of February，and we will issue an new posts.
We plan to achieve setup dual-mono function in 1121 rather than 1021, because 1121 have the function of dual DAC board synchronization.
 
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RollE2k

Member
Joined 2007
Audiozen, this sounds very interesting because i have actually thought about building a balanced setup later, but have actually waited before somebody makes a "shield" for the boards.

Will be interested for the 1021 for starters, because I will finish a headphone amp with that board at first!
 
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Slazi

Member
Joined 2013
RollE2k said:
Slazi: "iis over over hdmi" is not same as plugging your Blu-Ray player or playstation into it and getting sound.
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Hmm...you are right. I guess I have to spend some time with my best friend google.

Is there any other reasons why I should wait for this instead of buying ardam1021 and input board?

Is it possible to adjust screen brightness with ardam? I'm thinking of using slightly dark acrylic front panel and install screen behind it.
 
D

Dimdim

Member
Joined 2008
Slazi said:
Is there any other reasons why I should wait for this instead of buying ardam1021 and input board?

Is it possible to adjust screen brightness with ardam? I'm thinking of using slightly dark acrylic front panel and install screen behind it.
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I'd like to clarify that ardam or my input boards are not "for sale" by myself.

ArDAM's full code is freely available, and my input boards' schematics too. As a matter of fact, I just uploaded my Eagle files for the input board, complete with the PCB design so anyone can have PCBs made.

I do have on order a small batch of inputs boards since a couple of friends asked for them and I'd run out of last year's batch (since I did sell the few that I had left practically at cost to fellow DIYers).

Regarding adjustment of screen brightness, it can be done even though I have not implemented it in the code. The TFT's backlight is controlled by a transistor which is connected to a PWM-enabled pin on the uC. I just haven't implemented it due to me being paranoid of PWM signals in the vicinity of my DAC boards. :p
 
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LubMich

Member
Joined 2016
matt_garman said:
I have another "randomly loses sync" issue. Setup: two dam1021 boards in balanced dual mono config; input is I2S via Raspberry Pi; using Normunds' input+switch board to connect the two boards plus Rpi. DAM boards are powered by DIYINHK LT3042 power supplies at +/- 12V.

Most of the time everything just works as expected. Randomly, though, the dam1021 boards will lose sync. When this happens, it is most likely to occur right when a new song starts. This is how it usually goes over:
  • New song starts, plays normally very briefly, maybe one or two seconds
  • Both DAM boards lose sync (on-board LED starts flashing), brief silence for one or two seconds
  • One board (i.e. one channel) regains sync, starts playing; other board/channel is still silent, again one or two seconds
  • The channels swap, so the previously silent one starts playing, and the other goes silent. Another 1-2 secs.
  • The other channel recovers and both resume playing normally.

I spent several hours listening, and this happened so little (maybe not at all?) that I thought I could live with it. But then I put a new album in the playlist. And it started consistently doing it at the start of every single song.

I thought it might have something to do with the files, but my entire collection is all FLAC-encoded CD rips (i.e. 16/44 redbook audio).

So then I thought it might have something to do with the RPi and/or software running on that. I shut down the system for a few days, came back last night. Turned it on, started playing the same album. No issues. So clearly it's not specific to those particular song files.

Any thoughts on where I might want to look given the description of the problem?
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I heave also a „randomly loses sync” issue. But in mine situation in 99% it is a power side issue..
since yesterday Soekris plays from battery and it is rock solid..
You heave add a solid power supply regulator.. mine simple toroid was not enough.. for quick I will add some CLC filter..
I try to figured out if it is grounding or AC/DC side..

 
A

audiozen

Member
Joined 2017
Slazi said:
Audiozen, sounds really interesting. Do you have any information about pricing yet? HDMI would be good reason to wait for it if the price is reasonable.

Will there be hdmi passthrough for picture signal?
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iis over hdmi is the 3.3v LVDS,not support any video or picture.Attached please find the detaill.
 

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S

Slazi

Member
Joined 2013
I need some help with choosing between amanero and diyinHK. What is the main difference and which is better?

I'm also a bit confused about wiring two dac boards together. Outputs are simple but how about inputs? How to split signals to two dacs? I couldn't find much information about this so I appreciate if someone could explain or give me a link.
 
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spikestabber

Member
Joined 2015
Slazi said:
I need some help with choosing between amanero and diyinHK. What is the main difference and which is better?

I'm also a bit confused about wiring two dac boards together. Outputs are simple but how about inputs? How to split signals to two dacs? I couldn't find much information about this so I appreciate if someone could explain or give me a link.
Click to expand...

Going to try a Singxer C-1 (XU208+reclocker) in place of the Amanero myself, really wanting to see if there is a difference like many have observed...
 
S

SebastianL

Member
Joined 2013
My build (rev. 1 board)

My dam1021-01 rev. 1 has been playing for a long time but only recently I got time to put it in a proper enclosure.

My rev. 1 build including mods consists of:
2 Silchar r-core trafos feeding a Reflektor-D and a DIYinHK LT3032 150mA psu (soon to be replaced by a DIYinHK LT3042 1.5A psu hopefully to improve dynamics).
Reflektor-D (with jfet mod) is feeding Amanero combo384 (with external power mod and USB cable 5v lead cut off) Reflektor-D is also powering the isolators of the dam1021.

Mods so far: HiFiDuino's version of the vref mod 16 caps attached on back of the pcb, alecm/oneoclock's transistor mod, opamps removed, caps C135 and C143 removed since I only use the raw output.

Thanks to all the members in this forum for inspiration.

Are there any obvious mods that I'm missing? (replacing the 6 ceramic caps - marked with yellow - as proposed by søren/hifiduino), decoupling cap on the clock?

soekris said:
If you insist to improve the onboard power supply, try replacing the 6 electrolytic capacitors with aluminum polymer types, 1000u 16V exist in same 10mm smd footprint and t.ex. digikey stock them at $2.20 each. Should be easy to replace.
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BRtmHNc.jpg
 
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spikestabber

Member
Joined 2015
Try adding a polymer cap to the 3.3V rail near the clock, and since you removed the op-amps try supplying the board with +-5V and +3.3V directly. There's also the 1.8V switcher but you can power that with the 5V instead of directly, saves having an extra regulator and i've not seen any claims that upgrading the 1.8V did anything useful other than for completeness sake.
 
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rickmcinnis

Member
Joined 2006
Replacing the 1.8 volt switcher is necessary if you decide to power the board with just 3.3 volts. (I am being simplistic here since I used two separate 3.3 volts supplies for each of the two halves of the board)

That reg requires lots of dropout voltage.

I did replace it but cannot say I heard any difference.
 
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