ultimate speaker cable design diy

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I'm have to look but there is a UL rating, remember this stuff has become popular for solar installations and I suspect there is enough money involved to make a UL submission to meet codes for large series PV installations.

Apparently the code has changed. Welding cable now requires a 600 volt rating. There is a class for battery cable that can go as low as a 30 volt rating!

Reminds me of the folks who made speaker connector adapters to allow you to use regular extension cords, the very next electrical code update banned them.
 
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watch out from leaving one end of the wire disconnected while the other end is connected and driving it. Electrons are known to spill out from the open end, thus affecting the quality of the wires.

True story!


It's funny you should mention this idea. I built an electron trap using 24k gold leafing sheets, wrapped over a wire grid like a kite. The gold sheets capture the electron spill at the end of the plug, which I redirect back to plug using a 22 awg copper wire. The 24k panels are positioned similar to a segmented aperture radar horn. Incidentally I could see this phenomenon over a scope. But the end result is a nice up tick in Sq.
 
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This system is an overkill .... just heavy copper wire .... and if you are afraid of signal refexions and other dtufff just put a 0.047 uF cap with a 22 ohms resistor at the far end of the wire to make a termination.
The two main reasons for differences in sound character at the extremly wide range of speaker wire (both at homebrew resp. diy cables so as commercial available cables) are the fact, that there is no an individual positive cable and no an individual negative cable for each channel present at the most cable versions (i. e., there is mostly a capacitive character present) - additional most cables don't consist from one or any few solid core wires, instead this there the inner conductor is made up of many individual very thin wires that in turn have been twisted together to form bundles and thus produce a cable, which is extremely flexible and thus easy to lay.
Both is a great disadvantage for good sound quality. But for the last fact I don't know the real reason.
Under
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...egative-wire-overview-wanted.html#post4941398
maybe I will find out many commercial available cable versions without this mentioned disadvantages.
 
All cables have two separate wires for pos and neg... this reaks of audiophoile myths and rubbish as the links do on the other thread you have linked to. If a speaker cable has a sonic character then your system is well naff, the cables do affect the signal but at a level to low to be audible unless the cable is badly engineered...
 
The two main reasons for differences in sound character at the extremly wide range of speaker wire (both at homebrew resp. diy cables so as commercial available cables) are the fact, that there is no an individual positive cable and no an individual negative cable for each channel present at the most cable versions (i. e., there is mostly a capacitive character present) - additional most cables don't consist from one or any few solid core wires, instead this there the inner conductor is made up of many individual very thin wires that in turn have been twisted together to form bundles and thus produce a cable, which is extremely flexible and thus easy to lay.
Both is a great disadvantage for good sound quality. But for the last fact I don't know the real reason.
Pure nonsense.
 
The physics of cables is well understood since at least 60 years ago. The dynamic of audiophile brain-wallet-hand coordination and its affect on the ear brain system is much less well understood, but susceptible to sleazy manipulation by technical-sounding advertising, superlatives and other such tomfoolery.

Why are we talking about this?
 
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