Maybe I will do... but the point here is: the different results are because of grounding (single star point for Amanero, silver wire for DIYHNK), different filter configuration or card characteristic noise? My guess is that the DIYHNK is not... "noDAC friendly".
I am very curious to look at some measurements with JLsounds. The one that I have seen is this:
(from Nexthardware forum)
EDIT: Taking account of the scale and frequency is not very different from my Amanero measurement.
I am very curious to look at some measurements with JLsounds. The one that I have seen is this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(from Nexthardware forum)
EDIT: Taking account of the scale and frequency is not very different from my Amanero measurement.
Last edited:
That looks like a pretty good inductor. Usually when choosing the inductor you want the DC resistance to be as low as possible and the SRF to be as high as possible. My first choice is usually Coilcraft inductors. However, in this case the Coilcraft SMD part seems to have a higher maximum DC resistance.
Parts-express sometimes has some pretty good inductors on sale also in their clearance section.
Parts-express sometimes has some pretty good inductors on sale also in their clearance section.
Here is a stupid question for you.
I have Logitech Squeezebox Touch streamer/DAC. Do I need or what do I need to connect and how do I connect one of these and which one?
What is i2s anyway?🙂
Maybe if I do not know what i2s is, I should not mess with it in the first place 🙂
I have Logitech Squeezebox Touch streamer/DAC. Do I need or what do I need to connect and how do I connect one of these and which one?
What is i2s anyway?🙂
Maybe if I do not know what i2s is, I should not mess with it in the first place 🙂
Hi Felipe. Not tried it yet but I plan to do so, however, I've been working away so little time for any audio recently.
Ray
So what's the final recipe for nodac? I have been following this thread from the start and still a bit lost...
Sent from my MI 5s using Tapatalk
Sent from my MI 5s using Tapatalk
There is no final recipe and, just like most audio, there is no magic solution that suits everyone and everything.
Some have preferred the flipflop approach and others the single-ended.
Better results seem to accrue with higher DSD rates (ideally at least DSD256). I use HQPlayer to upsample PCM to DSD256 or DSD512, which works well if somewhat processor hungry.
The degree of pops/clicks and noise that might be experienced seems to be related to the USB board used; I have always had consistently good results with the JLSounds I2SoverUSB board.
We do know that the approach can deliver amazingly good sound.
The thing is that a basic low-pass filter setup can be very cheap so the best thing is to try it yourself and see what you think.
Some have preferred the flipflop approach and others the single-ended.
Better results seem to accrue with higher DSD rates (ideally at least DSD256). I use HQPlayer to upsample PCM to DSD256 or DSD512, which works well if somewhat processor hungry.
The degree of pops/clicks and noise that might be experienced seems to be related to the USB board used; I have always had consistently good results with the JLSounds I2SoverUSB board.
We do know that the approach can deliver amazingly good sound.
The thing is that a basic low-pass filter setup can be very cheap so the best thing is to try it yourself and see what you think.
I feel a little awkward given my previous post and the apparent conflict of interest but, entirely unrelated to that post, I have received a couple of PMs asking about PCB availability so I am ordering another small batch if anyone is interested
I am ordering the versions of the PCBs that are designed to plug onto the headers of the JLSounds USB board. I will be able to offer a small number of flipflop and single-ended boards on a first come, first served basis.
In addition, I will also have a small number of SE boards that replace the through-hole LP filter components with smd parts and a further variation of the SE board that has pads for an inductor/cap/resistor for a second order LP filter.
PCBs will cost £4 each plus shipping at cost.
From placing the order for the PCBs to them being delivered to me normally takes 2-3weeks so it will likely be about a month before any PCBs get into your hands.
I am ordering the versions of the PCBs that are designed to plug onto the headers of the JLSounds USB board. I will be able to offer a small number of flipflop and single-ended boards on a first come, first served basis.
In addition, I will also have a small number of SE boards that replace the through-hole LP filter components with smd parts and a further variation of the SE board that has pads for an inductor/cap/resistor for a second order LP filter.
PCBs will cost £4 each plus shipping at cost.
From placing the order for the PCBs to them being delivered to me normally takes 2-3weeks so it will likely be about a month before any PCBs get into your hands.
They can be used with USB boards other than the JLSounds one but you'll have to sort out wiring it up, which means it'll be less neat and the signal paths will be longer.
If you're going to use a DIYINHK USB board you might want to consider my fourth paragraph in this post;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/273474-best-dac-no-dac-166.html#post4939251
Thanks a lot, looks like it's doable and I am assuming that this won't prevent the use of DSD512 as well?
I agree with the click/pop thing: it's inherent to DSD implementations, probably requires more extensive work on communication from the player through the USB connection and a muting circuit under micro-control or something similar.
DSD512 should be fine, it's where I'm heading next with a no-dac implementation.
It can be more than the pops/clicks (the degree of which seems to vary with different USB boards) as some USB boards seem to experience a white noise during playback too. I cannot comment specifically about the DIYINHK board as I have no experience of one in this sort of setup, just want to make you aware.