I do not play DSD and did not try.
Your second question you can ask manufacturer directelly. I do not know how to answer it.
@TioFrancotirador,
Thanks, curious also about your 3.3V power to XMOS. Which power supply are you using?
Salas Reflector D. This particular xmos consumes 500mA typical and 800mA peak, however I power it with Salas running 3.3V@600mA and I never had an issue.
However if you want you can increase Salas output current by using FQP3P20 in M1 position, you will just need to use bigger heatsinks. There is also other important mod to use jfet instead of resistor in power regulation circuit, but you can find all this in Salas Build thread.
Hello, I suppose that you also use ref-D to power DAM1121 (OEM), could you share what current setting you use for analog and digital parts respectively? What transformers do you recommend? Thanks.
I actually do not use dam1121 but dam1021, because it is simpler to mod and has analog control of digital volume.
Anyways from specs you can read that typical currents are:
AVDD + 20mA (50mA peak)
AVDD - 20mA (50mA peak)
DVDD - 250mA (350mA peak)
Depending on case you should have some power margin for your salases. So if you want to go with reflectors then you could use 2R resistors for stacked analog ones and something like 1.2R for one powering digital. Then you can decrease the value if they get to hot.
As for the transformer I can recommend the audio grade ones from toroidy.pl
Power transformers - Shop Toroidy.pl
The actually make any specs you wish. I ordered some from them.
By the way, can 1021 be modified to have different power supply for analog / digital separately?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
wyan, I, too, use 1021.
From looking at pictures of 1121 it would require some delicate surgery to power the "digital" separately from the "analog".
It requires fairly easy surgery to separately power on the 1021.
Basically you remove the regulator that is powering the clock and use that supply to power both the clock and what you choose to power the FPGA. In my case I substituted a BELLESON 1.2 volts linear regulator.
The real separation occurs when you remove the 5 volts regulators for the "analog" section - the regs that power the vRef supplies. You would then have broken the connection between the two "halves" of the board.
You then can either replace the vRefs or just power them with another set of 5 volts regulators.
All of this could be done with 1121 but it looks far more delicate due to the diminutive size of the board and the lack of easy access points for the new power supplies.
The board is more rugged than SOEKRIS's warnings would imply but he does not want you (or anyone else) to destroy your board. One wrong move and you can easily destroy the board. The easiest thing to screw up is voltage polarities.
If you are an experienced DIYer you should be able to figure it out by looking at the posts discussing this earlier in this thread and looking at the threads at TIR NA Tír Na HiFi • View topic - Soekris Dam Dac
concerning the SOEKRIS DAC.
It is a good idea to bring all grounds to one point near where the original "raw" supply is located.
From looking at pictures of 1121 it would require some delicate surgery to power the "digital" separately from the "analog".
It requires fairly easy surgery to separately power on the 1021.
Basically you remove the regulator that is powering the clock and use that supply to power both the clock and what you choose to power the FPGA. In my case I substituted a BELLESON 1.2 volts linear regulator.
The real separation occurs when you remove the 5 volts regulators for the "analog" section - the regs that power the vRef supplies. You would then have broken the connection between the two "halves" of the board.
You then can either replace the vRefs or just power them with another set of 5 volts regulators.
All of this could be done with 1121 but it looks far more delicate due to the diminutive size of the board and the lack of easy access points for the new power supplies.
The board is more rugged than SOEKRIS's warnings would imply but he does not want you (or anyone else) to destroy your board. One wrong move and you can easily destroy the board. The easiest thing to screw up is voltage polarities.
If you are an experienced DIYer you should be able to figure it out by looking at the posts discussing this earlier in this thread and looking at the threads at TIR NA Tír Na HiFi • View topic - Soekris Dam Dac
concerning the SOEKRIS DAC.
It is a good idea to bring all grounds to one point near where the original "raw" supply is located.
I agree with what Rick wrote with Sorens correction. I followed Ricks blog, when modifying my board. E.g.: in my case the significant improvement I got from modifying 1.2V reg. At first changed it to lt1083 (no improvement) then to lt1963 very noticeable improvement and now I am waiting for my Belleson to come
will see. Also although on board Vref regs are very good you can still find shunt regulators of better specs or go with lifepo4. I am using modified Salases.In the end the overall results will depend on quality of digital signal coming in anyway. So far best results i got from Salas powered xmos xu216 and audio PC with Ubuntu installed entirely to Ram (do not have enough ram to do it with windows).
I understand Sorens cost effective approach for OEM and Consumer Line version for building the product.
Yet for DIY version my dream dam would be "bare bone" one allowing to supply it easily with your own regs and clocks and having "real" reclocking and buffering where some portion of signal (e.g. 0,7s) is buffered first. Something like in Ian's reclocker or newly released ALLO – KALI I2S RECLOCKER.
My apologies for getting the power inputs wrong on the 1121. As I stated I have only looked at the pictures and though I have read the manual I obviously did not read it well!
I have wanted to try the 1121 and reading that makes me think I might give it a try.
I have not made a blog concerning modding the board. TIA must be thinking of randytsuch's blog. He put lots of effort into it and deserves full credit.
We have not done things exactly the same though I will eventually use relays for power switching as Randy has since this allows the shortest possible power leads. I tend to dislike relays because of the chatter possibility but have found using a battery for the power seems to make this a non-issue.
I feel remiss in not mentioning Randy's blog. Trying to type too fast. Look here: randytsuch's audio page: Soekris R2R Dam DAC
I have wanted to try the 1121 and reading that makes me think I might give it a try.
I have not made a blog concerning modding the board. TIA must be thinking of randytsuch's blog. He put lots of effort into it and deserves full credit.
We have not done things exactly the same though I will eventually use relays for power switching as Randy has since this allows the shortest possible power leads. I tend to dislike relays because of the chatter possibility but have found using a battery for the power seems to make this a non-issue.
I feel remiss in not mentioning Randy's blog. Trying to type too fast. Look here: randytsuch's audio page: Soekris R2R Dam DAC
Rpi needs i2s reclocking its pretty poor
there will be a sonic improvement
KALI I2S RECLOCKER, sure looks interesting as an alternative to Ians fifo
replacing the 1.2v reg had far more improvement than anticipated
only changed it to allow lower voltage input didnt expect improvement
power can be substituted at
vref
oscillator
3.3 digital at stock ldo reg
and 1.2v (most add at test voltage vias)
there will be a sonic improvement
KALI I2S RECLOCKER, sure looks interesting as an alternative to Ians fifo
replacing the 1.2v reg had far more improvement than anticipated
only changed it to allow lower voltage input didnt expect improvement
power can be substituted at
vref
oscillator
3.3 digital at stock ldo reg
and 1.2v (most add at test voltage vias)
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