No idea about reviews, but if you are willing to shell out for these excellent drivers in a big reflex box, I don't think you will go far wrong.
Humble Homemade Hifi - Plutone
TBH, I think the crossover is overly simplistic, and won't play well with classical music. But an excellent Jazz speaker. It's probably 1.2mH coil on the bass and 3.3uF and 0.3mH coil on the tweeter.
Just buy aircore coils and some reasonable single capacitor and it'll sound good. Improvements might come later on crossover. It's quite John Devore Orangutan or Snell or Audionote IMO. Sort of thing I like doing.
Humble Homemade Hifi - Plutone
TBH, I think the crossover is overly simplistic, and won't play well with classical music. But an excellent Jazz speaker. It's probably 1.2mH coil on the bass and 3.3uF and 0.3mH coil on the tweeter.
Just buy aircore coils and some reasonable single capacitor and it'll sound good. Improvements might come later on crossover. It's quite John Devore Orangutan or Snell or Audionote IMO. Sort of thing I like doing.
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System7. Thank you for the answer.
I am not a speaker designer myself, but how can it be that Tony used long time and more prototypes af cabinets and components in the crossover before he released Plutone, if you say I can use off the shelf components?
I do know that it will play music with more standard components, but won't it be more of a standard speaker that way?
I have experimented with different capacitors in my amps, and the difference can be huge, like in "not like at all" to "very good".
It would be a shame to build this speaker with standard components and not experience the full potential of these fine drivers and discard it as a bad speaker.
I have build Troels Gravesen DTQWT with the most expensive cross over kit. It is sold now and I need my new speaker to be at least that good. I know I won't get the same bass performance though...
BTW why won't it be able to play classical music?
I am not a speaker designer myself, but how can it be that Tony used long time and more prototypes af cabinets and components in the crossover before he released Plutone, if you say I can use off the shelf components?
I do know that it will play music with more standard components, but won't it be more of a standard speaker that way?
I have experimented with different capacitors in my amps, and the difference can be huge, like in "not like at all" to "very good".
It would be a shame to build this speaker with standard components and not experience the full potential of these fine drivers and discard it as a bad speaker.
I have build Troels Gravesen DTQWT with the most expensive cross over kit. It is sold now and I need my new speaker to be at least that good. I know I won't get the same bass performance though...
BTW why won't it be able to play classical music?
Well, TBH, and I could be wrong on this, but I think it's highly unlikely the 6 capacitors in parallel will do better than one reasonably competent one. 
Without having direct experience of Troel's JA8008 woofer design, it looks very good to me. As does a Beryllium tweeter. TBH, I would die for driver components of this quality.
I work with cheaper stuff. But, nevertheless, good crossover design matters. It's always tempting to use high quality drivers with simple crossovers. But there is a minimum standard I won't cross.
I'd encourage you to build this baby, but be flexible on future crossover design. At the very least, an impedance correcting Zobel on the tweeter is going to sound better.
See, what people don't tell you, is that higher order filters work better with complex music like Classical. Jazz and Folk are easier genres. It's a trade-off. Nothing is perfect in the audio world.
Without having direct experience of Troel's JA8008 woofer design, it looks very good to me. As does a Beryllium tweeter. TBH, I would die for driver components of this quality.
I work with cheaper stuff. But, nevertheless, good crossover design matters. It's always tempting to use high quality drivers with simple crossovers. But there is a minimum standard I won't cross.
I'd encourage you to build this baby, but be flexible on future crossover design. At the very least, an impedance correcting Zobel on the tweeter is going to sound better.
See, what people don't tell you, is that higher order filters work better with complex music like Classical. Jazz and Folk are easier genres. It's a trade-off. Nothing is perfect in the audio world.
It looks like Troels needs a notch filter to achieve this in Quattro. Blue line without notch, red line with notch.
- but Tony doesn't need notch filter to achieve this
Could it be that the cabinet design makes it unnecessary to have this notch filter?
I have heard the berylium tweeter once and very much liked it, and I did very much like the former version af JA-8008 in my DTQWT mkII. It is because of these 2 facts that I'm censidering Plutone.
I'm going to visit Tony in a month to hear it, and take it from there...
Tonny Jensen
- but Tony doesn't need notch filter to achieve this
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Could it be that the cabinet design makes it unnecessary to have this notch filter?
I have heard the berylium tweeter once and very much liked it, and I did very much like the former version af JA-8008 in my DTQWT mkII. It is because of these 2 facts that I'm censidering Plutone.
I'm going to visit Tony in a month to hear it, and take it from there...
Tonny Jensen
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I have a cheap KEF Q100 5.25" coaxial monitors with simplistic crossover too and the orchestral mass sounds very well, incredible with a little speaker but is true.
After my cheap tweaks/mods (in W7 64bits very optimized to play multimedia too) they sound much better!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[Spanish] -> KEF Q100 Uni Q bookshelf speakers. 5.25" coaxial with front bass reflex.
to English -> https://translate.google.com/transl...ial-with-front-bass-reflex&edit-text=&act=url
I listen more classical very good vinyl rips 24/96 FLAC in my second and cheap system!!!
Well, TBH, and I could be wrong on this, but I think it's highly unlikely the 6 capacitors in parallel will do better than one reasonably competent one.
It's 1 big fancy cap with 5 smaller and not all the same "flavor caps" in parallel. Too much fairy dust for me
C1a = Intertechnik Audyn True Copper Max / 630VDC or Duelund Coherent Audio Copper Silver Hybrid / 100VDC
C1b = Foil bypass cap / 3000VDC
C1c = Foil bypass cap / 3000VDC
C1d = Foil bypass cap / 3000VDC
C1e = Foil bypass cap / 3000VDC
C1f = Foil bypass cap / 3000VDC
It uses extraordinarily expensive components (€3,390 for a matched pair without wood) in a budget 2 way speaker configuration using an unbraced, undamped cabinet that adds nice sounds to the output from the drivers according to the author. The damping for the air appears to be carefully arranged where it will be least effective as seems to be visible in the impedance trace. The appeal of such a speaker is likely to be extremely limited but, given there is clearly a market for Audio Note-type speakers, I wouldn't expect it to be zero. It will be interesting to know what you think after you have heard it.
Review (in dutch only, sorry) by a sound engineer who listen to all types of music including classical and jazz:
forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl • Toon onderwerp - Tony Gee's Plutone
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Hi Steve,
Sorry but you are way off with the component values and they don't sound at all like an Audionote or similar. Feel free to visit when you are near Amsterdam.
Great speaker, Tony. I've read all your stuff and enjoyed it. And about time someone revisited the 8" bass 1" tweeter idea. Troels seemed to get quite bogged down in complexity with the QUATTRO-mkII.
TBH, I hadn't realised this is a kit you offer. I was assuming it was another diy project.
I've been down this road myself. Below is the Robin Marshall Monitor Audio R300-MD, with a SEAS 19TAF/G metal dome. The original circuit didn't quite float my boat. And I favour a 3rd order near BW3 these days, smoother and flatter power response, but less immediate of course. All is compromise.
TBH, I hadn't realised this is a kit you offer. I was assuming it was another diy project.
I've been down this road myself. Below is the Robin Marshall Monitor Audio R300-MD, with a SEAS 19TAF/G metal dome. The original circuit didn't quite float my boat. And I favour a 3rd order near BW3 these days, smoother and flatter power response, but less immediate of course. All is compromise.
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Thanks. It took quite a while to find the right combination of drivers and crossover that worked well with such a simple crossover. Especially finding a woofer / tweeter combo that didn't need any resistors. A resistor is the signal-path of a tweeter is a necessary evil (even a Duelund CAST ). Treble is so much purer and "there" without resistors.
). Treble is so much purer and "there" without resistors.
John DeVore claims never to use resistors in his crossovers, but do we believe him?
Certainly easier if you can specify everything in bespoke drivers. The rest of us work with what we can buy off the shelf.
TBH, I can't see much difference between the natural resistance of a voicecoil and a sandcast crossover resistor. It's copper wire in the end. Or a voicecoil inductance and a crossover inductance in series.
What I found with 8" bass is that when I add serious shunt voicecoil damping with higher orders, it gets more detailed, but breaks up more edgily at high volume. I was scratching my head why this is.
I think when you overdamp a voicecoil, it encourages a sideways rocking mode that sounds awful:
So who knows, eh? We must just keep trying stuff. It's the hobby. But for sure, these drivers of yours are terrific. I want some.
Certainly easier if you can specify everything in bespoke drivers. The rest of us work with what we can buy off the shelf.
TBH, I can't see much difference between the natural resistance of a voicecoil and a sandcast crossover resistor. It's copper wire in the end. Or a voicecoil inductance and a crossover inductance in series.
What I found with 8" bass is that when I add serious shunt voicecoil damping with higher orders, it gets more detailed, but breaks up more edgily at high volume. I was scratching my head why this is.
I think when you overdamp a voicecoil, it encourages a sideways rocking mode that sounds awful:
So who knows, eh? We must just keep trying stuff. It's the hobby. But for sure, these drivers of yours are terrific. I want some.
The notch was used only on previous version of JA8008:
"Midwoofer crossover could be simplified with the new JA8008-HMQ driver as the RC circuit across L2021 could be omitted." from current Quattro page.
I also loved the sound of the old JA8008 in my DTQWT-12, so I am keen to hear the new HMQ version. I find Tony's design very intriguing. The kit price is comparable to the parts cost in US, plus a bit more for the design, so I think it's fair price, but the resale value of DIY speakers makes this a scary proposition unless it becomes a audiophile fad!
It is true, resistors do change the timbre and veiling of the tweeter. Difference between a cheap metal oxide and same value mills wirewound is very noticeable to me on a SB satori tweeter. The mills has so much more detail I have to use more attenuation to achieve musical balance. Metal oxide sounds dull and dead in comparison. Maybe this is just due to loss of damping with series resistors because some amps with very low impedance affect high frequency timbre in similar positive way, even with resistors. Obviously without resistors makes better damping.
Tonny, did you ever go to hear Tony's Plutone?
Rich
Hello I am planning to built something similar (high efficiency large drivers ) and I discovered www.pispeakers.com they have some very interesting speakers and the owner can give plans for free also the prices are quite nice. Browsing in their forum the comments were more than good.
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